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Also, any further info on what engine or vehicle model you’re talking about? My previous post was thinking along the lines of you having a SOHC NA with roller rockers. Cheers Bennie

Common problem that one. Tricky if you don’t know what to look for. The symptoms make sense as this being the issue. It’s a relatively easy fix once you’ve got the part. Cheers Bennie

First world problems! You’ve got two hands for a reason right So many options here - map holder mods to accommodate a cup holder, window ledge, something that clips to the little shelf in front of the passenger on the dashboard (could interfere with the vents). Or travel with a passenger that’s good at hold cups full of liquid Cheers Bennie

Tried an engine machine shop? Take a piston to them to size up. That’s how I got mine. Cheers Bennie

Geez we’re not on the clock being paid for giving advice! I wouldn’t stress so much over roller rockers compared to lifter arms and push rods etc. But that’s just me. I’m sure (hope) someone might chime in on this considering your sarcasm/arrogance as a new forum member of 17hrs at the time of writing this! All the best, Cheers Bennie

No timing chain on the EA81 either. Just gears (even better!). The EJ22 is like the modern version of the EA81 - bullet proof if you keep it’s fluid levels where they should be, and that’s easy to do. All the best with which ever way you go wth it. I do prefer the boxy shape of the L series Cheers Bennie

@idosubaru So at roughly what year does the TCU differences become an issue? Cheers Bennie

Being an auto could open up a whole can of worms with the potential TCU differences between the two models. Sorry, I too thought you were talking about the manual transmission. Cheers Bennie

The axle shaft/stub play will probably be the diff bearings needing adjusting. This means playing with the “sundials”. And that could induce a vibration through the steering. Swapping in a different gearbox would be way easier for the uninitiated than swapping the diff ratio in your current box! You might find the drive ratios are different between the two gearboxes depending on what your model is and what the replacement box came from. Cheers Bennie

That’s about it. You could take the knuckle out and do it on a bench but it can be done in situ. If using “sealed” bearings, I pry off the seals carefully and repack the bearings with quality high temp grease I’m happy with the replace one seal. When I put the bearings back in, I fit them with the one seal facing outwards and throw in a bit of grease with the spacer. Then the second bearing is fitted with its one seal facing outwards. This allows the inner sides of the bearings to move grease in/out as required and makes use of the seals on the outsides of the bearings. For the standard seals, prelube them with some bearing grease (sparingly) or rubber grease so they done “burn up” and chew out. After all that it’s essentially reassembly time! Cheers Bennie

Once moving not a great deal. Starting off from a stand still you will initially feel a difference until you’re moving. Hills at speed might be a bit different to club too. It’s a lot of work, what are you trying to achieve? Cheers Bennie

Are you saying the PO welded the shaft of the strut to the strut housing so there was zero suspension movement? 6 star is correct - any strut from the same model will fit. 2wd ones have a lower spring perch but will still work. Being a farm hack you could probably manage to fit the other model struts without too much effort - eg: L series body with brat struts or brat body with L series struts Cheers Bennie

Video in this thread: Rear wheel bearing job once you’re up to it: Cheers Bennie

Have you contacted any aftermarket air suspension suppliers? They may be able to do something for you, either replace or repair. Long shot that’s only worth asking about. Cheers Bennie

There is no replacement available from my understanding. I’ve looked into using the plastic sleeve from the ball of an EJ selector, it might need some shaving to make it work as I’ve not had to do this yet. Cheers Bennie

Could be a dead coil that’s killed the electronic ignition module in the dizzy, or just a dead module, or, if your brat has it, a dead fuel pump power cut module under the dash. Cheers Bennie

I hear you on that one! Four regos and insurances... love driving them so that’s that. Cheers Bennie

Agreed. Only one way to find out... If it throws a code due to the different shaft rotational speeds than expected you could try making custom tone rings for the ABS system assuming these are the speed sensor pick ups for Canbus system. Cheers Bennie

Typically the way to treat the airbags is gently AFTER disconnecting the battery for a minimum of half an hour. Can leave it disconnected over night just to be sure. After this you’re all good to work with and safely handle the airbag. As for the clock spring, I’m not sure what your forester uses, I had the same issue on my L series and the contact pin had worn down to the point it only made partial contact at certain angles of the steering wheel. I found that a .22 bullet shell fitted snuggly over the pin and job done. Dare say your clock spring is most likely updated from my ‘80s L series! And I don’t have an airbag to contend with. Cheers Bennie

How did I miss the start of this build? I love the L series and can’t wait to be driving mine again soon! I like that flex section of exhaust pipe you have there, I’ll have to look into where I can source some over my way as it’ll help me out with a project. Cheers Bennie

I usually leave them swinging on the strut. You do need to separate the ball joint from the bottom of the hub knuckle. From there you should be able to hammer out the old shaft and get the new one in. If you want a larger working space then remove the hub knuckle as well. This give you the option of using a press to do the hammering part of the work. Getting it setup in the press would be the hardest part here. Cheers Bennie

I’m with @1 Lucky Texan and @idosubaru, it’s a dead condenser. No valves etc down there. You will find a joint on both pipes coming into the condenser though. That could be the issue, an inspection will show if it’s the joint(s) or a hole in one of the condenser channels. My bet would be a hole in the condenser. All the best with it! Cheers Bennie

Yeah that’s definitely a blown HG then. All the best with the reno and the HG job! Cheers Bennie

I didn’t like where the friction point was in the pedal travel, adjusted the cable then the pedal went hard before it hit the floor. That’s when I found out the fork maxing out on the case hole. Of course it meant the gearbox came out again. And the two washers were guess work. Which ever fork is used, it will dictate which pivot point to use since the two forks are different. Just sit the fork in there with the TOB and see where the fitment for the pivot lines up Cheers Bennie

The coolant under the carb is to avoid the carb icing up and fuel freezing, frozen fuel tends not to burn very well! @KiwiGL - how long have you had the engine running for, a decent drive or just idling to move it around the yard/shed etc? If it’s the latter it could just be excessive moisture in the PCV system as it’s not getting up to running temp and remaining there for a period of time. If you’ve done a decent drive or three it’s probably the HG letting go or a coolant leak from the intake manifold gaskets or rarely from under the carb - but you’d see other running issues with these too. Cheers Bennie