el_freddo

I was thinking about this overnight - why not just fit the tone wheel to the front of the crank pulley? That wouldn’t be hard to do, which had me thinking why you haven’t gone that way in the first place. Facebook sucks. Cheers Bennie

Good thread dig. Love reading old stuff like this Cheers Bennie

Yeah the phase 1 turbo gearbox and I believe the phase 2 gearboxes have different front case halves to facilitate the turbo clutch. On these the clutch fork pivots on a pin built into the gearbox case and the throw out bearing clips into the fork to pull on the pressure plate. To remove it you first pull the pin out and from memory the fork comes out with the engine and then it’s unclipped. You can get upgraded pressure plates made to your specs or to what the specialist thinks you need from your description of vehicle use. I reckon if you’re moving those sorts of loads on inclines you need a dual range box, an auto or a bigger vehicle... Cheers Bennie

Your clutch is typically under most load when engine revs are low and the throttle is WOT. Once the engine spins up a bit the clamping force on the clutch isn’t required to be as high due to its load being less. Think about when a worn clutch will slip the most - low revs and high load. A really bad clutch will slip at high revs, and would need to be babied to get there generally. If you’re pulling high revs and slipping the clutch from not fully engaging the clutch then there’s your issue with your clutch slip (that’s how it read to me). When using the clutch in this fashion I find it best to keep revs as low as possible, have just enough slip for the vehicle to move the way I want it to without the engine stalling or clanking around. High revs and slipping the clutch = lots of heat from the friction of slipping the clutch = ending up with smoking the clutch. You will no doubt have fine cracks in the flywheel friction surface and possibly on the pressure plate if it’s really bad. As Ido suggested, a turbo clutch could be the go, but you’ll need a turbo gearbox (different ratios, potentially another issue) to facilitate the pull style clutch setup. If you’re swapping gear bags you could look into importing a dual range gearbox. The low range will be 1.19:1 but it’s better than 1:1! Cheers Bennie

From what I’ve heard about the six puck racing clutches is there’s very little slip. The bite zone is very quickly the clamped zone and you’re off. Not good for a daily and a smooth ride, unless you’re full raceboy all the time. Any organic clutch disc should do the job well. A lot comes down to clamp force of the pressure plate, this can add extra stress to other components as the pedal becomes heavier to operate - another thing to consider when upgrading the clutch. I think you’ve already identified that your clutch slipping habits need to change, and that you’ve already changed some of your choices in the parking department. I’m no clutch guru, do some research, read the manufacturer’s website for info. Others here will chime in. For me I’d replace the disc, especially if it’s just my time working on the vehicle and not paying someone else. Cheers Bennie

Original radio! Respect! I couldn’t find one in Oz to save myself!! I have the complete unmolested garnish piece but no radio. One day... one day it might happen. Great adaptation work around. I’ll have to see if there’s anything locally here that’ll do the same thing. I’m currently using my first gen iPod touch with JBL flip5 Bluetooth speaker as my stez... Cheers Bennie

Bantum from Ausubaru.com.au made a thingyverse file for the spacer rings - and I think he did one for the brumby/brat indicator cancelling cylinder part Cheers Bennie

Only issue is you need to match the mount plate with the tensioner it comes with. If your EJ22 has the old separate piston design, that will be a direct swap. If your EJ22 has the tensioner arm with the piston and idler build in, then you’ll probably have to chase up the older style tensioner. Cheers Bennie

Plus blue lights for driving are quite frankly, spoob. I hate them. They’re distracting, glarey and blinding. They should never have been allowed on the road. My 5c Bennie

Single headlight will just plug into the outer light of the quads that seals with hi and low beam. Parkers and indicators should be the same wiring, not hard to swap a plug if you need to but I reckon you’d be able to just move the light fitting between the two units and use what you already have in there. As for the cyclops light. Probably easier to run a separate loom over the factory stuff in the recipient vehicle. Cheers Bennie

Agreed with @Crazyeights on the single port (carb) heads. Easier to make a manifold for and probably no real gains in the MPFI heads. But to answer your question, all interchangeable. Cam profiles changed between turbo and carb EA82s, but I’m not sure about how similar the NA MPFI cam profile is to the Carb units - or whether they’re actually the same (highly likely!). All the best with it. Do your research on intake runner length as this has lots to do with where your power will be made etc Typically, short runners for a revvy engine, not much torque down low. Long runners are good for low down torque but not so good for top end high rev work. That’s the basics on it, I’m sure there’s more detailed science to it. Cheers Bennie

The bush will certainly have a steel tube through it to which the bolt is grabbing. The use of an impact wrench/gun would be my weapon of choice, it might allow the bolt to move independently to the bush with all the hammering that hung does. Another good penetrant is 50/50 acetone and auto fluid. But as stated, getting it in the desired location will be the PITA. Cheers Bennie

Yeah true that about the currency exchange. I didn’t make mention of that as I thought others would work it out. I guess that’s the old assume saying... Cheers Bennie

Second Lambo door clad brat I’ve seen. The other one was Lambo yellow to boot and had “butterfly” twin sun roof panels. Not my cup of tea. And what’s with the cocktail setup in the ute bed? It’s not a house sale for the dressing to increase the sale price! I wish we got the rear jump seats! Clean stock Brumbys over here are asking prices of $8-10k. Really clean examples are asking about the same price they cost from the factory!! Cheers Bennie

G’day Kevin, It would be best to post in the 80’s subforum to get assistance quicker. Have you double checked the firing order of the spark leads on the spark plugs? Cheers Bennie

Feel free to come over and do Ruby Scoo’s door trims. You can see the dirt and dust in them from the various trips we’ve done! Your trim work with the vinyl looks tops mate Cheers Bennie

That’s good thinking! I would’ve run the same coolant for simplicity of only using one product... Cheers Bennie

When one door closes... Sounds like a good plan and some fun to be had! Cheers Bennie

Always the way mate. There’s a few brumby out there missing the drivetrain or interior and have a decent body. There’s a Targa shell up for grabs for cheap (gumtree), but there’s a pretty big catch! The front end was tweaked all wrong so they’ve cut it off from the strut towers forward and part of the firewall/trans tunnel. Would make for a good project in geometry along with spending loads of time carefully unpicking the spot welds from a donor to then fit to the project vehicle. The targa or “fun top” as it’s actually called by Subaru is the appealing bit of that body. It’s too far from me to grab, but if you’re game..! Chin up, rust is ALWAYS worse than you first thought. Expanding foam would probably add to its growth of more rust. Cheers Bennie

Nah, just kill off this member from the board. That’ll take out the threads they started like his first one which also needs to go: Cheers Bennie

Everything you described is standard mode of operation for the 3AT! We had one in the family lock up when the pinion shaft tried to insert itself into the diff centre when the pinion bearing imploded/exploded itself - due to a lack of oil! All the best with the rebuild... Cheers Bennie

^ that’s GOLD! Cheers Bennie

For clutch work etc I pull the gearbox. I use a motorcycle jack to help out. Works a treat. A hoist or pit would make it a bit easier in the crawling around under the car department. As for broken clutch disc, this was my efforts - clutch stopped working so drove about 300km through our Aussie Alps from Mt Hotham down to the coast at Lakes Entrance then about halfway back to Hotham before the drive to the gearbox stopped and there were “some unfavourable noises” before we rolled to a complete stop with no mobile reception: ^ new clutch disc on the left. 19 bits (and at least one missing) of the old unit on the right... The replacement clutch including pressure plate is still going well. That was ten years ago and the vehicle was daily driven until about three years ago, last 18 months it hasn’t been driven at all This is in my EJ converted L series Cheers Bennie

Called it!

No issue jacking from the rear diff! Front diff could be iffy so best to jack from the engine crossmember just behind the sump. If you’re not using the standard jack for the pinch weld seam under the rocker panels then you need to do as Ionstorm66 said - get/make an adaptor. Or do as 6 star said and jack from an appropriate place on the rear suspension frame or the front suspension/front chassis rails that continue half way along the floor pan Cheers Bennie