el_freddo

That’s the one @6 Star! Can’t believe it’s still around. I remember it with a yellowie-beige background though. Info is the main thing! Cheers Bennie

I doubt a thrown rod would contaminate the oil system unless the issues started some time before the rod let go. Youd want to know what signs of the rod letting go we’re there before the big event - knocking noises for example. Cheers Bennie

This wouldn’t happen to be a shame(less)-plug for more hits on a new channel in the hope for more subscribers and thus more monetisation profits?? If not, continue! Cheers Bennie

Your oil pump may be fine and not require any work - just don’t hammer it to get it out, that’s when you crack the pump housing rendering it useless. If the bottom end is fine, I’d leave it alone and look at dropping new rings in it as a minimum. Oil usage could be rings or intake valve seals (no seals on exhaust side!). Get it turning over first if possible. Don’t force it Cheers Bennie

There used to be a website, or at least a webpage that documented just about every 4x140 PCD rim out there. Can’t find it now though which is mega frustrating. It was a really good site, basic but informative. Cheers Bennie

Stunning condition mate! I’m envious and hope that one day my Brumby might look half as good as this! Cheers Bennie

You had some good spotters out there for you! I liked the chipmunks... Cheers Bennie

It will interchange and bolt up no worries. What changes is there is extra internal baffling for the external EFI pump. And the outlet to the pump is larger than the carb variety. There may be other small differences for emissions etc, but they’d be minor and easy to work around I reckon. Cheers Bennie

I just realised this is a series 1... Cheers Bennie

You mean 5spd manual right?? Cheers Bennie

The actuator may not engage when stationary, unless the dog clutch/engagement mechanism is correctly aligned for it to slot in. Or there could be a hole in the vacuum actuator or vacuum line. Time to get stuck into the system and have a good look at it. Cheers Bennie

Every six months!! Geez, that’s crazy. Each state is different in Oz. So here in Vic, you do a check over for a Roadworthy Certificate, often known as a RWC, then you go in for rego. Pay your rego each year and you’re all good. Your beast looks so good. And that factory cruise on the steering wheel, plus the digi dash! Good score there sir! Look after her Cheers Bennie

Redback Brumby went on a little road trip from Bendigo to Wandiligong Pub via Tooborac, Seymour, Yea, Mansfield, Whitfield, Myrtleford, Porpunkah, and Bright. Wandi Pub - the sticker that came with my bullbar I got for it a number of years ago was the reason for the trip! The return trip was more of a bee-line home to save on time. It was a boring run but still a good end to the day. These are one of a series of “silo art” that are part of a circuit you can do to see them all. This one is at Colbinabbin: Good day had. In the 682ish km we covered we only came across one real dickhead on the road. One too many but good compared to what we could’ve come across considering it’s a long weekend. The brumby did 7.8L/100km for one section - this included a flogging through the hills with a load of twisties involved. I’m yet to work out overall fuel economy. She’s no sports car, but she does alright Cheers Bennie

Sweet wagon mate! A friend of mine had the same colour as yours. Only the touring wagons of certain years got the digital dash over here, other wise it as vase model spec instrumentation like the brumby/brat. He offroaded it, more so after putting a 2 inch lift and slightly larger tyres. The thing was mint off-road! I wish he still had it. It went everywhere anything else we came across went - except for those bloody comp-spec off-roaders. Anyway. All the best with maintaining this lovely wagon. Cheers Bennie

Would be worth a crack. I once had two dead driveshafts on the front of my L series. On the freeway they would cancel each other out, then have a small vibration then they’d join forces anencephaly create a large vibration until a curve in the road put them out of phase again. Very annoying! New shafts sorted that one as well. But the brumby driveshaft the would lock actually moved the steering wheel, no matter how hard you tried holding it (even with power steering!). That is why I put drive shaft on the cards with this issue. But as 88SubGL said - if it happened after new tyres, it’s probably the tyres! Cheers Bennie

I put an EJ alternator on my brumby. Works well. You need to cut down the bush on the EA alternator to 8mm thick, fit this to the EJ alternator then shave the EJ alternator housing until the EA pulley is clear to spin freely. I plugged the EA plug into the EJ wiring with some spade connectors and upgraded the charge wiring with a fuse - and ran a second wire to the positive cable at the starter. Worked out well and completely reversible if I ever feel the need to go back to something stock. Cheers Bennie

A dead driveshaft can have some bad steering wheel wobble to it. I had one that would lock at one point in the rotation cycle, it was enough to vibrate the steering wheel, even at a crawl! New driveshaft sorted it for me. Cheers Bennie

That’s an epic project to be taking on! I’m spoob at welding exhausts. Got a crappy bottom of the ring MIG welder to go with it. Can’t vary amperage other than two settings via a switch. Not fun. Can complain since it was given to me. Cheers Bennie

Nice one Kiwi! Certainly one to keep out of the snow! Factory cruise, that’s something I’ve never seen before! NZ gets all the JDM goodness! I’d love to have an RXII coupe. If only money would grow on trees... Cheers Bennie

Or blow compressed air from front to rear with the fuel cap removed. That might dislodge something in the fuel return line. Only do this from the return line that disappears into the firewall. DO NOt try blowing compressed air through the inlet fuel lines before the regulator Cheers Bennie

With the brat there’s a six pin plug above the driver’s feet behind the kick panel. This plug should have a corresponding mate that has a single yellow wire that loops back into the plug and into the wiring loom. Without this loop, the wipers will never self return. Cheers Bennie

First three I disagree with. Once you do this conversion you will see this is how the L series should have come from the factory! There is nothing boring with an EJ22 under the bonnet ECU and harness addition is well documented. Extra engine weight is a non arguement - the EJ22 more than makes up for any extra weight it brings with it! “Handling” isn’t effected. The custom machined parts are only needed if you go the adaptor plate way. In the US this is most common as you guys don’t have the dual range EJ gearboxes. The EA82 is the black sheep of the black sheep of the Subaru family. There wasn’t much retained from the L series to the Gen1 EJ platform other than general gearbox layout. Over here the dual range box even went back to the brumby/brat style pull up/backwards low range lever in the EJ. If I had the option and didn’t care about period correct, I’d drop the EA81t in with the EA82t engine management. It won’t be any quicker but it will be the reliable option of the two if you keep up good maintenance on it (as you need to on either option). Cheers Bennie

Can be done. My mate ran his EA81t converted brumby using the hotwire EA82t engine management no worries. He also used the EA82t exhaust from heads to turbo as the ones he had were a dodgy home made abomination. Correct sir. Cheers Bennie

Woo! Me too! That’s why I don’t have any in my L series (other than parts bombs)! Don’t worry, after the HGs, it will be something else! Cheers Bennie

Mate, love the coupe! I’d have one if they were available here. I think there’s five in the country if we’re lucky! All are personal imports so there’s no chance of me picking one up anytime soon - it would have to be an RXII coupe Sounds like some good plans. They almost always take years! Cheers Bennie