el_freddo

Grab any parts you can get your hands on. Others will tell you what’s particularly hard to find. Oil pump would be number one from what I read on here. If you can get one body and interior in good order you could drop a wrx drivetrain in it and power on from there Cheers Bennie

These Hg part numbers is what I was referring to (badly!): Subaru Head Gasket 11044AA642 Subaru Head Gasket 11044AA770 Thanks to @forester2002s for sharing in another thread Cheers Bennie

Awesome and clear info there @idosubaru!! Can I use the MLS EJ25 head gaskets, end of part number being 664 and 774 (going badly by memory) on the EJ25D block with EJ22E heads? Or do I need to use the factory EJ25D head gaskets? Cheers Bennie PS: side note for those playing at home, in AUDM land, we didn’t get the single port EJ22, all of ours are dual port. Fun fact

3: are front diff mount extensions (four bolts that clamp the diff to the bracket. Seems more bolts are needed here. As for the others I’m not 100% sure as there seems to be bits missing from the kit. One piece that’s missing in my mind is a steering extension for when the engine crossmember is dropped. That’s one of the joys of buying second hand when you don’t know what is exactly involved with the whole kit. Cheers Bennie

Got any issues with the crank angle sensor in the dizzy? Just putting it out there. Cheers Bennie

I bet mate. That’s an epic amount of work! Cheers Bennie

Thanks Idosubaru. I have an Gen1 series 2 EJ22E, from about 1991-1994 Australian Domestic Market model. Injectors are red units, not the earlier grey ones. If it’s as simple as sliding the EJ25D under the EJ22E manifold, or just plugging in the engine harness from the EJ25D to that of the EJ22E management, this would be the easiest way to go. One of the reasons for this is because I have an immobiliser imbedded in my cutdown loom that I really don’t want to try pulling out (over here an approved immobiliser must have wiring all the same colour - black). If I need to swap pistons IF doing the frankenmotor, I would rather be doing the full EJ251 engine and management conversion instead - is what I meant to convey in my previous post. This may see a new immobiliser, or at least a kill switch The ultimate plan is to finally get my L series engineered - and if I’m going to do that I might as well engineer it with the EJ25 conversion of some sort rather than the EJ22 (which is still a great engine). I need the vehicle to be engineered to be eligible for club registration (costs about 10% of full registration). And over here, it should be anyway... All of this work comes down to time and a little bit of money. With a relatively young family I’m finding my shed time is smaller than ever which is frustrating. And needing the L for a big trip in September makes it tricky when I still need to be completing work on my brumby (small resto stuff), the RS turbo project (Gen1 Liberty, you guys got the SS) and the other maintenance on our daily drives. Not a great shed to work in either, but it’s better than nothing. The idea came about because I have an EJ25D at my disposal. It ran well when the vehicle (also an L series) was retired. Wiring is there but not in a great state, no ECU. It would be interesting to plug in an EJ22E ecu and see if I can get it going (after a bit of other work for power etc to the wiring). The EJ251 idea comes from experience with my sister’s RX liberty and my MIL’s SG forester. I hope this sheds some light on where I’m at Cheers Bennie

Thanks gents! Looks like it’s a bit more involved than I first thought. So EJ22E ECU will run the EJ25D with its factory DOHC heads, but not at the best it could if I was running EJ25D management, correct? If that’s the case it would probably more beneficial for a complete EJ251 swap with matching management. Thinking I’ll just be happy with the EJ22 ;) Cheers Bennie

Check the charge cable pole on the alternator. Mine was lose and things smelt hottish - on my volt metre it wasn’t charging properly either. The nut was beyond finger tight but the charge wire could be wiggled easily. Cheers Bennie

Thanks @idosubaru and @heartless I’ll have to swap the HGs before it goes in. That will be the decider I reckon. Cheers Bennie

As title suggests - can the EJ22E engine management run the EJ25D (with original heads)? The EJ251 with EJ22E combo becomes a frankenmotor if I’m not mistaken - works well? Asking as my L series is EJ22E converted. I reckon the extra torque of the 25 is desirable but to get the 251 in I don’t want a rewire job as that’s basically another whole conversion I can be bothered with. I haven’t done much research on this recently as it’s a bit of a spur of the moment idea before a mate heads over from the west to do an epic two week trip over my way... though an engine swap might perk Ruby Scoo up a bit more again. I have a complete EJ25D at my disposal. The EJ251 would need a parts yard run and I wouldn’t be particularly confident in one of those unknown engines. And I can’t see my sister killing her Gen3 RX Liberty anytime soon for me to nab the engine from it. Cheers Bennie

Next mod, EJ it Cheers Bennie

The only thing I can suggest is dirty fuel clogging the new injectors so they’re stuck open. I hope you have an EFI rated fuel filter after the fuel pump. Is it hard to start when cold and hot? Only way fuel can be getting into the sump is via the injectors and the cylinders on shut down. Even then, the correct inlet valve of the leaking injector(s) needs to be cracked open enough to let the fuel past them. After immediate engine shut off, are all injectors also shut off or is some sort of residual power getting in there and activating the injectors (extreme long shot!)? How long does it take your oil to be fuel contaminated, and what makes you think you’re getting that amount of fuel in the sump? Cheers Bennie

Power steering lines and basically anything in the drivetrain is interchangeable with the same era of Leone and L series. So those PS line could be found second hand. But new units would be mint and you’ll know it’s good. Cheers Bennie

Geez mate that’s extreme! You’re bloody lucky in my book. I can see why GD gets under your skin so easily/much. All the best with getting feeling back in your finger tips and the rest of it Cheers Bennie

Many here live with scratches. So the silence says that no one has any ideas or knowledge with vinyl wrapping. I’m sure there are plenty of YouTube videos of vinyl wrapping reviews to look at. Cheers Bennie

Thanks mate, already noted. I totally forgot about the wedge, like much of society!

Fingers crossed that this is the end of your issues mate! Cheers Bennie

Isn’t an XT tank the same as an L series EFI tank? I always thought the Vortex/XT4 were all based on the L series chassis/floor pan design with the changes being the body construction and styling. I don’t know the availability of the L series/Leone’s over your way @davepak. And certainly in this case, an EJ conversion would not solve this issue as it would do the same thing! Very lucky you didn’t burn through all the fuel pumps you tried out. Now, what about putting that turbo back on? Go on, you know you want to for that extra reliability factor! Cheers Bennie

I know where to go from here. Boat anchor the EA82, do an EJ22 conversion. Win win. Cheers Bennie

Awesome! Glad you got it sorted! No other issues now? Cheers Bennie

Need to swap heads for that. The NA MPFI runs the same dual port heads as the MPFI turbo. Cheers Bennie

Running a switchable and fused wire to the fuel pump would be a good test. If that proves successful, I would keep those new wires and put a new relay in that’s activated by the ECU ground wire. Pull the positive voltage from a known good source, or if it’s 5v, find and use the corresponding ECU positive wire. See if that setup works. Sounds like you’re onto a good thing there though! Cheers Bennie

What came of the mass air flow sensor “lead” that you had? You haven’t fully ruled this out. Also see if you can find a trouble shooting table that references engine runs with MAF disconnected. Long shot, but in our 2000 VT Holden commodore V6, it was gutless to drive at one point. Pulled the MAF/pressure sensor (I forget what it was exactly) and it would run ok, not all power was there but you could drive it easily. The issue turned out to be the fuel pump dying. Dunno how the sensor disconnect trick changed anything. Car ran awesome after the pump replacement. No random stalling, no stuttering or loss of power issues with load or acceleration. As I said, long shot with it being the fuel pump - could be an electrical issue at a joint that’s got high resistance or an issue with the fuel pump relay. Some easy things to check out there anyway. Cheers Bennie

Go through and clean up all your earth connections - and find any that are not strapped down, get them sorted too. Your thermo fan should kick in at a bit above the half mark on the temp gauge. What sort of voltage is the alternator putting out? Cheers Bennie