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@Loyale 2.7 Turbo - we got the four door sedan Royale in the later stages of the Leone model. It had the MPFI EA82 and everything electric you could throw at it other than a digi dash. I too am keen to see pics of the vehicle in question We love pics! Cheers Bennie

I believe the USDM got SPFI or MPFI turbo. There’s no NA MPFI over there AFAIK. So it’ll be the SPFI heads. Cheers Bennie

And Australia - the small forgotten island in the Southern Hemisphere I don’t think we ever got the 1600 down here... Cheers Bennie

Swap the lines, pump, bracket and reservoir out from another model. If there’s a sensor in the pump, get a pump that has a fitting for, or a sensor fitted. Swap them out and off you go. Subarus are Lego. You might not be able to replace just the pump with another, but with the other bits the replacement pump uses from factory, it’ll fit up no worries (unless Subaru did something funky with the Steering rack fittings). Cheers Bennie

Awesome. Look into boosting the 3.6L H6. Been done a few times and ppl are getting good results from these builds. A sand rail could be fun Cheers Bennie

No to you. Some ER27 die hard might wet their pants over it. @Eric4 - if you’re new to this, look into an engine that doesn’t necessarily require specialist knowledge and a stash of parts for the odd Sunday drive. More fun and reliability would be dropping in an EZ (correct GD, I’m not gear with the 3 and 3.6L engines) with aftermarket management. Then your gearbox becomes the issue, and your brakes on the EA platform. What’s this purchase going into anyway? All that said, conversions aren’t for novices unless you have a good, knowledgeable mechanic and very deep pockets! Keep researching, ask appropriate questions that you don’t find answers to in your research. Keep the links of good info for reference Cheers Bennie

Ooh, this changes things! The vacuum advance device in the distributor is different between NA and Turbo on the old flapper AFM units. This is to take into account when on boost. As stated, cam profiles are different and the mapping of the ECU will be different, especially when it expects boost and it’s not getting it. I’m not sure if these RCUs were that advanced or if they just threw more fuel into the cylinder when it expects boost to be present. Switching to the NA ECU probably won’t work either as wires maybe different and there is most likely more wiring for the turbo ECU for the knock sensor and boost readings. Why was the turbo removed anyway? With the NA compression and modern high octane fuels you should be ok running the factory boost on those pistons if you can go back to the original boosted setup. Cheers Bennie

Also, any play in the distributor shaft? Cheers Bennie

Try using some metal glue or permanent locktite on it to fix that ring in place. Cheers Bennie

Are you sure it’s 25 degrees before TDC? I remember my MPFI being 20 degrees BTDC. Might be worth adjusting and seeing if the behaviour changes. Cheers Bennie

Reversed fuel lines is a good suggestion. Quick way to check is to disconnect the fuel hose from the filter in the engine bay, put a container under each hose and prime the fuel lines. Which ever container has fuel in it is the direction the fuel is flowing from. It should be coming from the filter Cheers Bennie

Go the L’s! The cheap ones are the best and end up costing a lot more for all the right reasons! My $500 L series (back in 2004) is still kicking but not much in her is original! And she’s been all over the place in my part of the world. Got any other plans for your L? Cheers Bennie

I once did an MPFI conversion on my L series before I found forums and saw the light in the EJ conversion world. Mine would surge sometimes when accelerating, other times it would pull like an EA82 freight train. Didn’t matter about the load or throttle position, sometimes it happened, sometimes it didn’t. I recall that if I took my foot off the throttle and back on when this was happening it would clear up. I never found out what the issue was but I suspect it had something to do with the smaller carb fuel return line that my conversion inherited (this was swapped out when I did the EJ conversion). It could be worth removing the fuel cap and blowing compressed air back to the tank through the fuel return line to remove any restrictions in the system. The other thought is that it’s some solenoid that’s sticking - probably one to do with the fuel tank ventilation system, definitely in the emissions control stuff! Shame you cancelled the inspection, I was hoping it would be there to pass and live on, even if it limped over hills for now... Cheers Bennie

And they’re better than a carb, even though it’s a “Stone Age” EFI system... Cheers Bennie

No. Only when changing gears if the clutch isn’t used properly. Thus a low mileage gearbox could have a crunchy gear or two if it lived in a city driven vehicle - lots of gear changes for that amount of distance. A country driven gearbox with high kms could have very good synchros due to few gear changes for the distance driven - many kms at cruise speed in top gear. At the end of the day it all comes down to the driver and it can be a gamble. Certainly the choice of oil, it’s condition/age (what’s already in there) have an impact on what the gearbox feels like to change gears. Cheers Bennie

Fair call. Use whatever you can fit. Easiest to fit is a replacement unit with two inlets and one outlet. Probably harder to find. Hardest to fit is the much more widely used single in/out port units. You need to modify the Y pipe to make it a 2 into 1 then fit the cat converter. Probably easier to have a shop make new extractor pipes to replace the stock Y pipe. Cheers Bennie

Geez that second pic of the pulley is pretty full on! I hope you find one, I’m sure someone will have one of you can’t find it on a parts site. It might come with a whole engine... Cheers Bennie

Subaru’s have cone shaped synchros Cheers Bennie

Well I just learned something! Doesn’t the ECU supply power or at least read the resistance voltage from the O2 sensor? Cheers Bennie

There’s a big difference between knowledge and opinion - this threads seeks opinion, which could be included as peer pressure/fitting in with a group or scene, which comes with its own underlying fears (or anxieties - pick your label). Fear/worry... you asked about removing something you know or at the very least suspect is something required by law. So yes, fear had you ask the question whether you knew it or not. If it was a question only about which catalytic converters is best to replace an old dead one and how to go about it, that’s one for knowledge and know how. Cheers Bennie

You can’t see the friction surfaces without disassembling the shafts and gearsets. Not an easy task I reckon (I’ve not done this). With synchros you’re looking for some roughage on the friction surfaces. They stop working when they’re smooth and don’t create friction to slow or speed up the gear that the driver is trying to select. That’s when the crunch happens same as when changing gear without the clutch and you don’t rev match properly. You could pull the synchros and have them lightly bead blasted - I’ve heard this is a good method to bring them back to life. But the effort (or f’-it) to get the synchros out usually isn’t worth it. Cheers Bennie

Agreed. I wouldn’t be caught without one over here. Minimum fine is $10,000. If you’re really pressed and just need a cat converter to say you have one you can put a unit from a larger displacement engine on the little Subaru engine. Flow through should be better and generally the cost lower due to the higher volume of these units sold when from a popular vehicle. Cheers Bennie

Yes that is a reverse lockout device so you can’t slip into reverse when shifting down from 5th. To properly look at synchros you need to pull them out as the real action happens on the friction cones. What you’re looking at is just the tabs that align for the gear selector ring to slip over and lock the gear in for use. Cheers Bennie

You’ll need to give it a power source to do that. You seem to enjoy odd things going by this... Cheers Bennie

Less plastics and metal material used to produce the car compared to those of today’s vehicles. Even if the factories were more polluting you’re using less resources to make the car in the first place. They’re also much easier to recycle at end of life than a modern vehicle (don’t even look at EVs for the recycling aspect yet!). My EA81 brumby pulls great fuel mileage for a vehicle of its age. I put a bit of this down to good roads that can maintain cruise speeds for longer with generally less gradients to climb. My 2c on that anyway. Cheers Bennie