el_freddo

If you had a massive radiator, maybe, but we’re talking about a small unit. Plus it ends up back in the head anyway where it gets more heat. I can’t see how it would stagnate. But then again, I don’t understand the EA82t cooling system. Cheers Bennie

That’s a crazy amount of gunk on that throttle body! Have you tried running a can of upper engine cleaner through the engine? Follow the instructions to a T and keep the revs up as you spray the remainder of the bottle in. I’d say you have some very dirty intake valves - the back side of them. This could be causing issues with the air fuel mixture entering the cylinder. What sort of compression are you getting on each cylinder? Cheers Bennie

An intercooler will certainly help keep intake temps down - the extra rad post turbo before the hot coolant hits the EA82 head will be most effective at pulling heat out of the system and helping with the longevity of the EA82t. Cheers Bennie

Interesting @Numbchux. Over here the SJM is cut out and left in the scrap pile. I presumed it would be the same in other markets too. Apologies for the bum steer @glife Cheers Bennie

If you have electronic throttle control you might not have an idle air control valve as the ECU should be able to manipulate the throttle for appropriate idle speed. It could be worth checking to see if the throttle body is clean. All the best Bennie

Check out the idle air control valve. On my sister’s EJ251 it can cause stalling issues as it’s either not operating properly or the rubber bung on the end isn’t sealing properly as it should. Or it’s dirty, causing less air than intended to get through when needed. Cheers Bennie

What’s this got to do with a ‘97 EJ22 in a ‘98 outback? I’m confused Cheers Bennie

How does that work?? @oczuk32 - what’s wrong with your mechanical fan? Are they a viscous unit? If so you might be able to replace the fluid inside it for some fresh stuff that should make a difference. I know the guys over here replace the fluid in their Monteros (I think that’s what they’re called over there. They’re known as a Pajero over here and also a Shogun elsewhere). Cheers Bennie

This is a common mod over here. A fella I know that still runs the EA82t has this setup using a small motorbike radiator. I can’t remember if he has this mounted in front of or behind the main radiator, I think in front. @Step-a-toe might be able to shed more light on it as he *should* be running this mod with his EA82t to help keep it cool! Cheers Bennie

Second thing to check (if the belt is good) is that the rotor button’s retainer screw is installed. Cheers Bennie

Yeah that is the hill holder valve. Good when adjusted properly, not good when you’re trying to inch your way back down a climb you didn’t complete the first time. You don’t need it and it’s not detrimental to leave it out. I don’t have the cable connected for it on my L series, zero issues so long as the return spring remains in place. Cheers Bennie

I’m 99% sure many vehicles until late into the naughties were batch fired injectors - that’s why the sequential injection became a catch cry of many car company’s advertising campaigns. EA are definitely batch fired. Which ones I don’t know. Cheers Bennie

Well one thing is for sure @davepak - if you like puzzle boxes this is sure to be right up your alley! All the best with it. With that wiring diagram cross reference the wire positions at the ECU to make sure someone previous to you hasn’t repinned the ECU plug wires and misplaced a few. Cheers Bennie

Try that first if you can siphon the fuel out - or pump it out with a Fawcett pump if going straight from the tank to bucket. Other way to try would be fill with good fuel, throw a new fuel filter in there and use the EFI pump that’s already there to do the work if it’s up to it - collect the fuel from the return line. Use as much clean fuel as you like, I’d initially double what’s in there, flush, once low, throw another jerry can of clean fuel in there, flush another litre or two then try for a fire up. Good idea to do fresh spark plugs and a well charged battery with a vehicle also jumping the starter battery (with correct voltage spike protection). Cheers Bennie

If that injector is squirting that amount of fuel, you might have a cylinder full of fuel that can cause a hydro lock situation. Hopefully not. Your oil will probably smell like fuel now. Have you swapped injector 4 for a known good unit? I’d start there. Also, these injectors are batch fired, what are the paired units? I don’t fully understand how that system works and what’s involved but understand the principal of batch firing. I would’ve thought you’d find two wires from the injectors to the ECU connected. Just putting it out there, hopefully not a red herring as I don’t play much with EA82 EFI these days, just EJ22 looms and conversions. Cheers Bennie

You’ll need the matching engine management loom and ECU. Then splice this into the vehicle’s main loom so it works. If you have security that’s an added challenge. Or run an aftermarket loom and engine management. Other supporting mods that could be done are larger brakes. You’ll need an upgraded fuel pump. Best to buy a turbo vehicle from the get go and star with that base. Cheers Bennie

Just about any external efi pump will do the job. Look for one from a V6 or something of the like and use that. They shouldn’t be much bigger if at all. I’m using an external efi pump from a ‘91 V6 Holden VN Commodore. That’s a 3.8 litre from memory so it’s got loads to deal with the 2.2L in my L series Cheers Bennie

Do not do this! The efi pump replies on fuel to cool itself - yes, there is fuel flowing through the internals of the pump’s electric motor. All EFI pumps are like this. If it’s possible to reverse the polarity and run the pump I wouldn’t do it. Pull a fuel line and blow compressed air back into the tank if you really need to - make sure the fuel cap is removed. Cheers Bennie

Check the cam timing. Both cams could be aligned exactly the same which means one is 180 degrees out of synch. The other thing to consider is open valves. Rust/grud build up could be holding several valves open enough not to let them create the required seal for the bang to make any kinetic energy in the form of engine power. Or rings are clogged up, not producing compression. Cheers Bennie

On the front top of the block near the power steering pump (from memory) you’ll find an “EA82” in the casting of the block halve. I’d look at dropping the tank and cleaning it out unless you can clean it out/dilute the stale fuel in there to get it running. You might need a new efi pump, if you’re lucky it’ll fire up with the current pump. I’d cycle the pump a number of times to flush the fuel lines before cranking it over. The fuel pump primes for several seconds when you first turn the ignition on and when the test connectors are connected together (engine off ignition on). Cheers Bennie

What transmission do you want to put in and why? The L series 5 speed gearbox is the most common conversion and does not require an adaptor plate when using the EA81 engine. Cheers Bennie

If they’re both SF body shapes then it can be done. If the turbo is SF and the other is the SG, few interior parts will transfer over from what I understand. Mechanically, everything will bolt in, the wiring would become the headache. Others will elaborate further I’m sure. Cheers Bennie

You could run a set of fan belts without the PS pump in operation. I don’t know part numbers sorry. Any EA82 PS rack will be a direct bolt in replacement. They didn’t do anything special to the GL-10 racks. Cheers Bennie

These might help: Gear lever arrangement ^ Low range lever setup for a stock vehicle: A bent rod welded to the EA81 low range lever would work to adapt the two together. I hope this helps. Pics are from partsouq - try using your vin to find other images like this. Cheers Bennie

You should have another set of rods that connects to the back of the gearbox, one “solid” mounted (with a rubber bush) with a plate/knuckle for the base of the gear lever; the other rod connects higher up on the gear lever and to the gear selector shaft at the back on the LHS of the gearbox. That parallel rod will be for the low range/4wd. It should pass through the back of the gearbox to a U shaped connector that uses a pin to hold the rod into the cab’s low range lever. With a four inch lift you will need some serious mods to these rods and connectors to make it all work, you could DIY something to fit. Even adapting the EJ manual shifter would be a good start for the required parts to get this working. Use the EA81 low range lever and adapt it to the EA82 low range rod on the gearbox Cheers Bennie