el_freddo

Fuel down the throttle body will work just the same as down the throat of a carbie. Cheers Bennie

Pitch stopper bolts - just do them up tight. I always use the arm gauge for the torque setting on those bolts. Cheers Bennie

The steering knuckle won’t like any drop in the engine crossmember. You’ll need a custom unit to allow for the engine crossmember drop. Pitch stopper rod might be ok. For a one inch drop of the engine crossmember the trans mounts will be fine. I have a three inch lift kit with only a two inch setup on the gearbox crossmember. Been like this for ten years no problems. Cheers Bennie

To clean them properly you’ll need an ultrasonic cleaner - after that I don’t know what the process is in terms of full submersion or not etc. The seals are to stop air leaks into the intake manifold, not fuel leaking from the injector, at least not at the intake end. If you have a dud seal on your fuel rail you’d know about that already. Clean up the area around the injectors before pulling them out. It’ll help with removing them and stop crud getting in where you don’t want it. Cheers Bennie

Awesome, glad you found the work around. You could have your current injectors cleaned and serviced. It could be cheaper than serviced second hand replacement units. Cheers Bennie

I can’t see any blocks for the rear suspension K frame. Unless their setup doesn’t drop the K frame, rather it swings the rear wheels down and literally under the back seat base. The steering extension is quite important! Cheers Bennie

I think he’s referring to the Y pipe where the exhaust joint is under the gearbox and facing the RHS of the vehicle. As opposed to the earlier and longer UEL Y pipe that ends facing backwards well down the side of the gearbox. Cheers Bennie

That water pump difference is for the V belt and the flat ribbed belt. And the caliper piston is probably an early EJ unit. I’m not sure about the XT6 front calipers, as I’ve never seen a set, but if the handbrake is on the rear of the XT6, you might have that front caliper piston type. Cheers Bennie

^ that’s a phase 1 DOHC setup. The DOHC phase 2 has that little pulley between the tensioner and the LHS inlet cam wheel. I believe it stops belt flap. Cheers Bennie

That filter should be on the other side of the pump. It’s a high pressure filter. I’m not sure what you should run pre-pump if anything. I don’t have a filter before the efi pump other than the little mesh unit on the inlet side of the pump. You will have fuel siphon from the tank at just about any fuel level, pressure will be different with tank level. Just be ready for it with a bung in the line from the tank. Cheers Bennie

^ that’s a win in my book! Run it with quick oil change intervals to clean the milky crud out of the engine. Drop a bore scope into the cylinders to make sure they’re not full of milky oil. You may need to pull the heads to clean the cylinders out yet. I had to do the same on my EA81 that did the same thing as yours there. Cheers Bennie

No worries @bratboy1 After reading @Rampage‘s post, I agree with him too. I drove across the Nullarbor over here with a dodgy efi pump. After filling up with fuel I would have to hit the pump to make it work. It got tricky as I would have to start the engine on the residual line pressure, then jump out and hit the pump to get it cranking. This “worked well” until it gave up as we crossed a busy intersection and stalled. That was a fun “push quickly” to clear the intersection. We got a new pump for the return trip home. Very glad the pump shagged out good and proper in town rather than on the endless Nullarbor! Do you have a surge tank or is the EFI pump feeding directly from the main tank? If direct feeding you could have a blocked pump - pull the inlet to pump line at the pump and see if there’s a mesh filter in there, it could be full of junk. If so, your pump might be ok. Cheers Bennie

You shouldn’t need to drop the crossmember. Just undo the engine mount from the crossmember and jack up/lift the engine to give clearance to remove the mount. Undoing the gearbox mount on the same side could help reduce strain on tho mount as you lift one side of the engine. Cheers Bennie

Interesting stuff. Side question: do you guy carry or use diamond pattern wheel chains? Over here they’re mandatory in our small snow field areas - very useful and effective even with regular road tyres which many visitors run with due to the short period of their visit. Cheers Bennie

When looking at a larger vehicle for our growing family we initially liked the Tribeca, not the original series as they were fugly in our eyes! When it came down to it, we couldn’t afford a second hand one because they were too expensive (buying outright), plus it didn’t really fit our needs with going bush. One vehicle that caught our attention was the Gen3 onwards Mitsubishi Pajero/Shogun/Montera (I think that last one is correct). Things we liked - all independent suspension like our Subaru, comes in Diesel, 2wd/AWD/4wd/lo4wd, has 7 seats and can tow a decent load no worries. Many grey nomads drag their stupidly big and heavy caravans around Oz with these without issue. So we know they’re good for this. Plus there are LOADS of them out there, so parts are not an issue and there are plenty of aftermarket support for mods - like auxiliary fuel tanks (we now have 170L total fuel capacity). We got a second hand 2005 NP diesel auto and love it. We got it with about 30,000km less than the commodore it replaced. Now it’s caught up at 350,000km. Plenty of life left in it. I also like that our model isn’t stuffed stupid with electronic doo-dads all over the place. No buttons on our steering wheel other than the horn pad. The later you go the more electrical stuff you get, and at some point they upped the tow rating. There are plenty of other models out there that will do what you need. This is just one example and we love it. I’m sure GD will have other suggestions that might be more relevant to your needs and the US taste towards larger vehicles. Cheers Bennie

Make sure you don’t have an LED fitted. Many early units were non dimming - that could be your issue. Cheers Bennie

Could also be bearings around the centre diff area or the rear output/transfer setup. Or it’s a driveshaft - especially if the swap left to right trick was done. Has this issue when engine braking. Sounded very nasty! Cheers Bennie

I couldn’t get the first two pics to come up. Anyway, I can’t remember if this device has any wires going to it. It is not the choke, that’s on the RHS (vehicle’s) of the carb. This is on the back of the carb. Where does that wiring go to/come from? Your no run issue could be the ignition switch. Ensure you’re getting 12v when in the “ON” position. Cheers Bennie

Looks super good mate! Typical of a LPG fed engine. M&D’s classic Range Rover did 460,000 km on gas, it’s first 40,000 km on petrol. Was pulled down at this point (500,000km). The specialist pulling it down had some others in the industry visiting that couldn’t believe the engine had done the half million kms. It needed a new timing chain kit and a cam as this had worn out of spec. Everything else was good. After the rebuild it did another +200,000km before the vehicle was retired. Drivetrain was good, the body was falling apart, interior mainly (other than crap paint!), suspension needed renewing. This thing did loads of towing to horse events and totalled 11 roos in its time. The bull bar certainly saved it many times. Goes to show how clean gas is to run with. It’s all good until you run out of it and don’t have petrol on board to flick over to... worse if you run dedicated LPgas! Cheers Bennie

You might have a leaking injector filling a cylinder with fuel when it’s not running. check your oil and see if it smells like petrol. This theory doesn’t work if you tried starting immediately after. Two other things that come to mind - an issue with your starter motor or a sticky/stuck IACV. Is it cranking the engine over at a good speed on initial start up and there after? Cheers Bennie

Yep. Clean all mating surfaces first (except the HGs - they come straight from the bag onto the prepped block deck face). Follow that procedure and you can’t go wrong. Cheers Bennie

You guys had an outback sedan and don’t get the Levorg? Weird. Levorgs look the part. I wouldn’t mind one but there’s no way I’ll be able to afford one while they’re still useful and not failing in the engine department etc. Cheers Bennie

I got bored half way through. He didn’t go all out early on to say why it failed until he got to the sump side of things, even then... EJ251 - good engine in my book. Too many people neglect to properly service them and then they fail. Next step is to blame the equipment before taking responsibility for your own actions (or inactions). My 2c anyway. Cheers Bennie

And the loyale is an EA82, best to post in the older gen forum Cheers Bennie

If you have AC the evaporator could be very clogged up with leaves, pet hair or lint. Pull the fan unit and clean out the AC evaporator of any crap that’s in there. Won’t be an easy job but it could be the problem. Cheers Bennie