el_freddo

Yes, as you read page by page you write them out on some card or paper. Works for me. Cheers Bennie

@Step-a-toe - Send us your engine management loom, I’ll cut it down for you mate It’s not that hard, you just need to know how to read a wiring diagram and know what to cut and what to keep... the first one is always the hardest. Cheers Bennie

Should be a bucket of fun once you get it back together and running! Cheers Bennie

Get the front drive shafts too. At some point in the Gen3s (or was it the foresters, I can’t remember now!) they went from diff stub axle with cotter pin to hold drive shaft on to drive shaft pushed into diff held by a C clip on the driveshaft. This changes the bearing tensioner setup and the oil seal as a result of this change. Having the matching driveshafts come with the gearbox ensures you have what you need to drop in and go. Cheers Bennie

First I’ve heard about using locktite on the crank bolt! I always use a small bit of grease to ensure I’m getting all the torque on the bolt properly. Never had an issue. Will cross reference service manual. Cheers Bennie

Hey Jarsky, What are you roughing up with scotchbrite? You said the centre diff bearings were replaced, the ones on the output shaft are separate to the centre diff bearings. These are above and behind the centre diff. And yes, if the rear output of the gearbox isn’t covered you can easily get dirt and sand in there. If the box sits around for long enough dust can be an issue too. Could be a good idea to source a second box to sit and wait for January or to throw in if something does go bang. Could even do whatever centre diff mod you did to make it RWD, then it’s a drop in setup Cheers Bennie

Here it is. Extreme long shot!! One pic still works on the last page. I assume all the others are dead too. Cheers Bennie

Could be the rear output shaft bearings whining. Or the bearing between 4th and 5th. This can lead to the gearsets moving and not lining up properly, ultimately ending in the destruction of the gearbox. You might have other signs of bearing wear of this manner - on light cruise at 60km/h or ~35mph in top gear it’ll slip out of gear. As it gets worse it’ll start happening in 4th too. This is what we experienced with my sister’s high km gearbox in her Gen3 Liberty/Legacy. We swapped it for a second hand gearbox that we took a punt on. The centre diff was shot - but you’ll be swapping that anyway for your RWD setup. There was a guy on this forum from memory that made a bellhousing adaptor to fit a dedicated RWD gearbox to the EJ engine. I think it ran a Toyota or Nissan engine - can’t remember which one. It might be worth looking into. Cheers Bennie

I’m not up with that later model stuff - so take this with whatever, I could be completely wrong! Did you take the whole immobiliser system across to the new car, including the key from the donor? You’ll need the transponder in the key to talk to the security system - and you’ll need the receiver aerial on the ignition barrel if you don’t already have one/it. Thats my limited understanding of the factory security - everything needs to be match matchy! Hope this helps. Cheers Bennie

Geez we’re not playing for sheep stations! That was hectic!! The four and five blade fan combo is to reduce/eliminate acoustic harmonics where the fans make that oscillating like sound. Having blades with a different number of fins achieves this. As for radiators. Pick something off the shelf that’s easy to fit. My EJ22 converted L series runs a dual core Nissan Pulsar radiator. Minor mods were done and now it’s a drop in setup. Works perfect for what I need in my climate variations. As for GD and his bedside manners, he’s about as good as a great doctor. Take the medicine/don’t take the medicine, it’s your call, but it’s what’ prescribed as much as it may be painful to hear. Try owning an L series and reading his thoughts on this “dead” platform (which for the engine I totally agree, otherwise I love it and parts are still around). So listen, take advice, ask appropriate questions etc, and try not to shoot from the mouth in anger/or when upset! Keyboard warriors always get caught out on this - just look at facestalk. Cheers Bennie

The tick you have could be a worn valve lifter - where you measure the clearance it developed a groove or some uneven mark on the end of the valve lash adjuster. If you have the engine apart it’s a good idea to have these shaved to ensure they’re flat (or something). I don’t fully understand it - I just know that because of it my EA81 has quite the lifter noise as I can’t get it dialled in correctly. Last time I did my adjustments I forgot about this and it’s worse now than it was before I touched it. Cheers Bennie

Outer valves on the EA81 heads are the intake valves, centre two valves are exhaust. In the EA82S they’re the same as EA82 - exhaust on the outer and intake in the centre. Yours will be the first mentioned valve setup. I doubt you’ll do damage in the short term. Adjust them to the correct specs and it’ll be good. Too tight could lead to burning out a valve or two - possibly, I’m not 100% sure on that! Cheers Bennie

Amen to that (and not having an EA82 in general!). Cheers Bennie

You might also find your exhaust will foul the engine crossmember without those spacer plates fitted. Cheers Bennie

They could be tucked up high or possibly taped to the wiring loom. You have to get right in there, it’s not obvious until you know where to look for them. Cheers Bennie

It could be the three cam wheel retainer bolts are too loose. I had this one time and those three holes ovalled out in no time flat! Hopefully the bolts are ok and not damaged. Cheers Bennie

That link wasn’t in there when GD posted. I read it shortly after GD read and replied. The link was added with the edit recently. Cheers Bennie

Good info @wtdash! The only way to get a phase 1 block to play with phase 2 engine management is to swap to phase 2 heads on the phase 1 block - and vice versa if using a phase 2 block in a phase 1 engine managed vehicle. I reckon you should wait until this engine arrives, then take some pics and post up here. As wtdash said, there are markings to decipher a closed deck block - and they seem to be share with the EJ22T and EJ20G I’m hoping you got what you paid for in terms of the closed deck block. Cheers Bennie

Rear diff to be sure you got the matching rear ratio to the gearbox. Drive shafts will be the same in the rear. Prop/tail shaft (I can’t remember, but do suspect they’re a different length). Clutch would be good too unless you’re getting a new unit. If the donor is MPFI (did the US get MPFI?) get the driveshafts too as these will have 25 splines on the diff output stub axles. All the best with it. Cheers Bennie

Well this slows things down Not happy Jan... Bennie.

Every time you check a cylinder for valve lash, best practice is to rotate the engine until that cylinder is at top dead centre. This ensures the cam follower is not being acted upon by the cam lobe. To me it sounds like you had cylinder 3 at or near TDC, sorted it properly then immediately went to cylinder 1 to do the same, but the exhaust valves are under tension from the cam lobe acting upon them. Re-read the procedure and try again. Cheers Bennie

If it’s a ‘93 EJ22 from Japan it’s probably either a bogus advert, or the NA EJ22. The JDM market got the EJ20G turbo DOHC engine with closed deck block. It was only America that had the SOHC EJ22 turbo with the closed deck block. I don’t know of any external markings on the case to say that it’s a closed deck EJ22. The first series EJ20G has casing marks in various places (under alternator and on the buldge where the starter motor sits behind the engine bellhousing case - and inside the bell housing area behind the flywheel). The markings are a series of lines about 3’m apart from memory. The back of the RHS head should be the oil and coolant ports to the turbo. I’ve not seen them on the SOHC because Oz. Or if the heads are off it’s pretty obvious if it’s a closed deck block Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... this is a good question. They’re both well suited to sand work in my opinion - tyre sizes and widths will play a big part in capability. The H6 with a large trans cooler would probably be more reliable overall. Look into whether the auto has VDT or the old clutch pack centre. I can’t remember which is best and I’m not 100% sure which one can have the diff lock switch mod done to. I love my L series for all sorts of off-roading including sand. It’s an EJ22 with the L series AWD dual range box that has the locking centre diff. Three inch lift and 27 inch tyres. One of the biggest problems I’ve had is keeping the engine cool - it’s a long term ongoing issue for this vehicle. Only a problem in sand working really hard. Around town and on the highway no issues with cooling. The outback will definitely have better parts availability across the board compared to the L series. The outback will be more comfortable out of the box. If you love to tinker and like the older shape, go the L series. L series will have a bigger boot/cargo area than the outback. At the end of the day it’s your call, I think both would be as good as the other in performance once the outback gets more lift. Cheers Bennie

Aftermarket management might be easier at this point. Or go through the heartache of repinning and adding to a NA loom of the same era. You will need those wiring pin out diagrams to do this though! Cheers Bennie