el_freddo

Nice. When mine gave up I resoldered several of the factory solder joints and it’s good as gold. Pulling it out and refitting it took longer than the fix once the iron was hot! Cheers Bennie

Thanks mate. Now to hunt for a good pump at a decent price! Cheers Bennie

I’m finally putting together my EJ20G for my AUDM RS liberty wagon. (Those rims are dead now) It’s not going to be an all out attack vehicle, more so closer to stock just to enjoy the drive. My question, mainly asked of @GeneralDisorder, is this. Would this 12mm oil pump do a good job to avoid oil starvation at some point in its life? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/For-91-11-Subaru-2-0L-2-2L-2-5L-SOHC-High-Performance-Oil-Pump-EJ20T-EJ25T-EJ22T/400782310472?hash=item5d507cbc48:g:17UAAOSwxH1ULDJz If not, what would you recommend? I remember someone saying somewhere that the EJ22 oil pump isn’t great (first I’ve heard), but I can’t find the reference to this. This build will have wrx heads with the hydraulic buckets over valve setup. I don’t need solids, shim over or shim under as I’m not for all out high rev gear changes everyday, maybe occasionally. Cheers Bennie

Tried replacing the coolant temp sensor? This could be a bit left field, check the cam belt timing marks are still aligned correctly. And check for vacuum leaks. Cheers Bennie

That’s a fair effort mate! Don’t worry, I spent six months trying to work out why my old EA82 would only run on one cylinder bank or the other. We had all the timing marks lined up “correctly” when putting the belts on. But you must have one cam 180 degrees out in relation to the other one. 6 MONTHS of on and off work between uni before we cracked that nut! The main thing to take away is the spirit of giving it a go, and when the chips are down, continue giving it a go while keeping an open mind and reaching out for help. Many will not give something new a go, because the risk of failure is “too high”. Keep up the good work! Cheers Bennie

Also, do you still have the air dam section under the engine that mounts to the bottom of the radiator support panel? Not having this can effect the airflow through the radiator at high speeds. For those that still have factory radiators that are getting old, replace them! I learned this the hard way with a freshly rebuilt EA82 cooked when the side of the (looked good internally) radiator blew out. That was in 2007. I don’t trust plastic end tank radiators for long anymore. Cheers Bennie

Replaced radiator? Cheers Bennie

I think Saab also did a restyles legacy too. I rode in one in 2009 when I was in the states and we visited a friend that had it. That was when I became aware that Subaru and Saab did this. Later I found out about the chev forester. This probably happened as a result of GM owning Subaru for a while there (or at least having a decent stake in it!). Cheers Bennie

What Imdew said. Also investigate your fuel pump if that IACV hose is properly connected. Cheers Bennie

Also check the contacts in the combination switch. If they’re anything like the L series they will need cleaning/filing flat much like the old points in distributors. I hope it’s an easy fix Jonno. Another thing, have you tried a regular globe to eliminate the LED setup as the real issue. You could be chasing a red herring if the LED system doesn't check out in the first place. Cheers Bennie

Unless your tyres are directional. I usually just do front to rear on the same side these days. Cheers Bennie

Goes to show I don’t read that language! Cheers Bennie

What you need is to drop the rear swing arm mount the same amount as your strut lift has. This will put the wheel back in more of a central position. So odd to see a rebadged and styled subaru like that. It’s never happened over here. Cheers Bennie

Jack up the front end of the car and run it in 1st (very carefully letting the clutch out). Get out with it idling in gear and watch each wheel rotate. You could have a tyre with a bubble in it or it’s out of round, or you could have a bent hub (been there done that). Or it could be something like the hub not being completely centred on the hub and studs. Are they factory rims (less likely to be the issue)? The drift shafts to the front wheels could cause problems with vibrations, but not through the steering, you’ll feel that throughout the whole vehicle. All the best with it. Cheers Bennie

Electronic tuning radio? What is that anyway? ECU is what I know it as in that listing. Cheers Bennie

That a serious boat anchor! Move on. Either replace the EA81 or drop an EJ in its place and smile from ear to ear whenever you fire it up Cheers Bennie

Yeah righto... sounds like an overstatement to me! Mine’s full of dings and dents, and it has about three different colours of red over it (subtle)... and my rims need to be blasted and painted again. That’s dedication! Giles shipped a brumby half cut to the UK for one of his projects. He was stoked as it had the factory AC we got over here that was either rare as over there or not an option. That brumby was put to good use as it was destined for the scrap heap. Keep up the good work! Cheers Bennie

Fresh fuel, good battery, check oil. Check spark. Once running change oil and filter. Then go over other components - tyres, brakes if spongy (move it slowly and test brakes). Once all that checks out and you can legally drive it, go for a gentle drive to get things moving again. You might encounter dead CV boots shortly after getting her going again. Rust would certainly be an issue I reckon. Check the usual places. That’s what I can think of from the top of my head. Cheers Bennie

Any update on how this thing runs? It could be the solution I’m looking for to avoid emissions testing with what I want to do in turboing my brumby. Cheers Bennie

I won’t send a pic of my brumby’s rear end then. It might make you jealous. All the best with it. One of my mates lowered his brumby mega low. Rear diff wasn’t far off the ground and he was forever pulling out the inner cup on the rear left shaft. Namely when hitting larger bumps. I think he used an early L series shaft that was doj on both ends of the shaft. It was longer than the MY units and solved the issue if I recall correctly. Cheers Bennie

You could open the diff and fit the stub axles from the factory diff. Then run the stock drive shaft. You need the retainer plate piece that effectively holds the stub axle to the back of the spider gear. If you have an LSD this is way trucker to do unless you find the Gen1 turbo output diff stubs as they’re solid and held in by a clip like the male drive shafts are. Cheers Bennie

@Uberoo - going on from protontodd’s thread: you asked me about strengthening the L chassis after I made some comments about this. Below is what was shared with me. That’s all I’ve got and it’s not great quality in terms of sharp detail. Hopefully that gives you an idea of what was done for the rally vehicle setup Apologies for the delay in digging this up. It’s been in the back of my mind for a long time! Cheers Bennie

To be sick I bet! I’ve only seen SPFI and heard that referred to as carby controlled ECU. Who knows if that’s correct... Cheers Bennie

Which will be relevant to the dual range too. @Ionstorm66 - are you talking about the bushes in the shifter knuckle or the bush at the base of the lever/stick? Who knows? Maybe @Subarule could enlighten us..? Good point Steptoe, in which case I’d suggest the slot and bolt trick. Worked nice on mine. I recommend a metal lock nut. Nylon just doesn’t cut it with potential oil etc. Cheers Bennie

The conversion won’t impact any of the cluster gear so long as you use the wiring from the EA loom on the engine for the temp and oil pressure readings. While you’ve got the EJ out, have the EA temp sensor fitted to the EJ coolant crossover pipe. This will retain the factory temp gauge reading. The rest will stay as it is. Cheers Bennie