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el_freddo

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Everything posted by el_freddo

  1. el_freddo
    I still don’t get how it’s an EA81, originally with a stock hitachi carb and it has an ECU! Why has it got an ECU?? Is this a Californian emissions thing?? Ill leave you to it and hope that a) you get this sorted and b) someone can enlighten me. Cheers Bennie
  2. el_freddo
    Looks good @scalman! I hope you’ve done all the rust prevention you possibly can to avoid a repeat of your Gen3 situation. Cheers Bennie
  3. el_freddo
    I use our old rusty cake tins for this and collecting the odd oil drop from laid up engines or vehicles. They’re very handy for catching small amounts of oil when opening up rocker covers etc too. @UnorganizedMechanic - I reckon you need to bin that EA81. Keep the oil pump (do not hit it or you WILL crack the housing rendering it useless). Options: 1) find a good EA81 to drop in 2) EJ it. You won’t look back once it’s done. If doing a full DIY you need to push through the poo that so many give up in. Cheers Bennie
  4. el_freddo
    When cutting down a harness, you can’t assume before you cut. You must know what that wire does for the ECU before it’s cut out - or left alone. There are many wires that T off to oblivion, generally get rid of the oblivion wire while keeping the bit between the ECU and where ever it goes to engine or sensor. Earth wiring is typically black with white trace and from memory it might have a single or double gold dot. Wiring thickness will vary as many small earth wires come into the larger earth wire. There will be small earth wires that need to be cut out (from a T point) as these go to things we don’t need for a conversion. These earth wire ends need to be insulated for protection from damage later down the track (potentially to other wiring). If you have all the factory chassis earth points you’ll be good to go, no need to add extra earth points unless you really want to, I don’t see the point though. There’s no need to touch the engine wiring harness. Leave it on the intake manifold and plug it in once your cut down loom is fitted to the vehicle All the best with it! Cheers Bennie
  5. el_freddo
    If they don’t leak don’t stress about them. But if you want piece of mind, replace them. Use an impact screw driver, it’s the only way to get those countersunk screws out and snugged back in nicely. Are you putting this on an EA82 auto? Cheers Bennie
  6. el_freddo
    Got some pics you can share on this? Cheers Bennie
  7. el_freddo
    If the bottom end doesn’t have any knock in it on start up, keep the cases together. Pull the heads and replace the rings, maybe the pistons if they’re out of shape - but *should* be fine if the engine hasn’t been overheated. Replace pistons if you have cracked ring landings. Seen that before! Also have the valves check and new seals fitted. Or “just” drop in an EJ and enjoy the freedom of pulling up hills and actual acceleration! Sorry, it had to be said. Cheers Bennie
  8. el_freddo
    I fixed one real good - with an angle grinder, never to be in use again! The L series 4wd engaging mechanism has enough balls and dedents in there to keep you on your toes! I wouldn’t want anymore than that. Cheers Bennie
  9. el_freddo
    That’s a common practice from what I understand. You could learn to double the clutch between gear changes as this will help match the different speeds of the gears before you try slotting it in. The 4spd box isn’t easy to pull apart. The only one I’ve done ended up being cut open with an angle grinder (for parts) as I couldn’t get the pinion shaft bolt off to remove the centre casing - you can’t get a socket onto it as the hole to access it is offset and tight. 5spd L series box is much easier to work on in comparison. EJ even easier. All the best in your quest for parts, finding them will be hard. Doing the gearbox work will be no different IMO. Cheers Bennie
  10. el_freddo
    We have an EJ251 in my sister’s RX liberty. It’s now got about 450,000km ad still going strong. It mainly does country kms so it always gets a full warm up and a decent run, unlike many urban vehicles. Last head gasket job I replaced all the valve stem seals and lapped the valves while at it. You should adjust the tappets if you have “lifter” noise. These don’t have hydraulic lash adjusters, they’re solid and need adjustment from time to time. To me, bottom end = solid. Don’t redline it regularly (what’s the point of that, ring the neck of anything and it won’t last long!) The rod throwing is from the EJ25D era shortly after a head gasket job from what I’ve read. @GeneralDisorder will confirm, but I believe it’s due to bearing damage from use with a blown HG with coolant in the oil. Cheers Bennie
  11. el_freddo
    At 85,000m, I’d expect factory suspension to still be good unless you operate on rutted and rough roads regularly. Cheers Bennie
  12. el_freddo
    Go the EJ conversion. Done to death and the engine fits easily with an adaptor plate. The only things EA82 that should make it into your hatch is the five speed box and a set of rear discs if you can find some that are suitable for your application (2wd or 4wd - different hubs are used between the two). Cheers Bennie
  13. el_freddo
    Equal tyre pressures? Cheers Bennie
  14. el_freddo
    Sounds like too much stuffing around. If you have the SG it’s a better vehicle I reckon! Cheers Bennie
  15. el_freddo
    Especially since you have a spare vehicle for parts etc. learn how to read the codes from the ECU - it might just TELL you what it needs. Also check your cam belts are intact and properly aligned. One cam should be at 12 o’clock and the other at 6 o’clock when the crank is at either of these positions. @Step-a-toe - here’s the link, but all photofucket photos are no longer available https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=68&t=24721 Cheers Bennie
  16. el_freddo
    Thanks for that @Steptoe I guess I’ll be applying some sealant to my windscreen when the weather dries out! It’s not leaking but it would be best to have what the factory says to have! Cheers Bennie
  17. el_freddo
    Really? I’ve only ever fitted them dry, no issues. Cheers Bennie
  18. el_freddo
    Steering wheel is on the wrong side. It’s not right! Seriously though, a very tidy unit. Those headlight guards are very JDM! So are you making a purchase?? Cheers Bennie
  19. el_freddo
    Just as Bollo says in the Mighty Boosh all the time. I hope it’s not that dire! Cheers Bennie
  20. el_freddo
    Looks like you’ve got the most common issues covered. I’d start with the vacuum modulator, but really my gut feeling is that the auto might be toast - with that said I have very little experience with autos so cover all bases if you can before calling it quits on it. Someone in the know will tell you more though. And this is the forum to be on for this sort of help! Cheers Bennie
  21. el_freddo
    That depends on how you look after them. Cheers Bennie
  22. el_freddo
    Using a very sharp blade, cut the rubber away from the inside as close to the metal as you can. Gently push the windscreen out. Remove the windscreen from the rest of the rubber then *carefully* remove the plastic chromed strips for use in the new rubber seal. Cheers Bennie
  23. el_freddo
    @andrsn Gen1 and Gen2 have only one O2 sensor. It’s located between the two exhaust pipes coming into the cat converter. Cheers Bennie
  24. el_freddo
    ATF does not do the front diff. There’s a separate dipstick for the diff and it uses regular diff oil. If you have an issue there it’s usually a speed related noise. Cheers Bennie
  25. el_freddo
    Replace the slave cylinders while you’re there. They tend to leak when they’re this old. Cheers Bennie
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