el_freddo

??? When/what did I do wrong? Bennie

If it’s from a carby fed EA82, yes, it’ll be 23 spline and fit the EA81 shafts. If MPFI EA82 (fuel injected) then no, it’ll have the larger “EJ sized” 25 spline diff stubs. Cheers Bennie

FWD light would indicate that there’s a fuse installed in the holder to disable drive to the rear. This could be an issue with the solenoid that controls oil pressure to the plates that pass on the drive to the rear end (from my understanding of auto boxes). GD knows what he’s on about. Sounds like you purchased someone else’s problems All the best with it. Bennie

It’s odd atm. I’ve found the forum really slow at time - pages time out or take a full minute or two to load up. Maybe that’s because I’m on over in Oz when everyone in the US is jumping on too. All the best in your search! Cheers Bennie

There is a for sale section - go to the main page and scroll down the list of sub forums. Theres a wanted sub forum too from memory. Cheers Bennie

It wasn’t just the twin carbs that did this. Those imported engines would’ve been the EA81S - exhaust and intake ports were swapped around to the way the EA82 runs (intake valve are the inner, exhaust on the outer), so a different cam was used to facilitate this. I don’t know of any other differences in the block etc other than the cam. It could have been a mild cam spec over the regular EA81. Carbs were just part of the ingredient list for the power delivery. Cheers Bennie

Good platform to start from as a newbie. Quite a simple engine to work on except for all the vacuum hoses - mark them before removing any!! Welcome to the forum. Cheers Bennie

Yes! Someone who sounds like they’re not afraid to lightly scratch their paint with a new vehicle! Enjoy, you’ll love it! And welcome to the forum. Cheers Bennie

Oil pressure increase seen after the filter is a good thing. Between the filter and pump, any increase in oil pressure wouldn’t be seen on a gauge. So if there’s an increase in oil pressure on a physical gauge, that’s got to be a good thing. Cheers Bennie

Conduit and wire loom tape is about as good as it gets with these things. Keep it tidy from the start and it will look good. Trying to conceal it all will bring up other issues and will no doubt require extensions to the loom. This could spell trouble as GD eludes to. Cheers Bennie

Are you sure you’ve got your Before and after TDC the right way around? The Hotwire AFM MPFI needs 20deg BTDC static (green test plugs connected under the dash), this could be different for the flapper and vac advanced MPFI engine management. You might also need to connect some test connectors for dizzy timing changes. A new catalytic converter would be a good investment for smog, as would a new O2 sensor too. O2 sensors go bad and don’t always throw a code or show a CEL. Cheers Bennie

I tested this out in my sister’s Gen3 RX 2.5 manual. Pulling 1500rpm in 5th is ~50km/h, which from memory is near 40m/h. Her car pulled up from1500rpm without hesitation. It did it slowly though and I didn’t bury the foot into the floor either. You may have an issue with your legacy - any stored codes? Check your engine mounts and the pitch stopper rod for wear too. Cheers Bennie

That’s what I’d recommend. These engines don’t like high loads at low revs. 2000 rpm is the lowest you want to load the engine at. Cheers Bennie

“Lugging” the engine. It will coast at those revs ok, but it won’t really like to pull speed from those revs in a high gear. Try changing down a gear at that speed to increase revs and see if that changes anything. If it persists I’d be looking at spark plugs, then leads, then the coil pack - one at a time to hopefully save money and identify the actual problem. Cheers Bennie

Fair enough. I didn’t think it would hurt to ask. Cheers Bennie

If you’ve got the EA82 FT4wd box, it would have the locking centre diff and 3.7 or 3.9 diff ratio. What Ellie-Ray needs is the centre diff with matching housing, the ring gear and pinion shaft - that’s essentially what Ellie-Ray is chasing for this build. The rest can be sourced locally. And I’m not his agent, just thinking out loud - I haven’t spoken to Ellie about gathering parts. Cheers Bennie

@Numbchux: Sell the R&P gears plus the locking centre diff with housing to @ellie-ray? Cheers Bennie

Avoid. Now the EJ20 turbo would be well worth it, but the chassis rails need to be widened, or apparently run without timing covers - and change the spark plugs before install! Or EJ22 - no chassis rail mods needed, peak power is about the same as the EA82t and is more reliable. @Step-a-toe - any rail mods needed for the EA82 in the brumby? In my book EA82 anything in the Brumby/brat’s engine bay is a fail. Keep the EA81 or go EJ. There’s no other reliable option! Cheers Bennie

It’s possibly the idle mechanism’s slow reaction to a change in vacuum. Otherwise to me, it points to a secondary vacuum leak that the SPFI system is able to deal with, and a brake booster issue. My initial thought was brake booster. Best to get a vacuum pump and give it a thorough test. Cheers Bennie

No worries Ellie-ray. Low range oil feeders on this page. Pics will tell you more with way less words! https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=72&t=11733&start=555 The EA AWD pinion shaft is LONG, probably close to 60cm from memory. The EJ pinion shaft is closer to the 40cm mark. So you need to “cut” the gear off both shafts and weld the gear ratio you want on to the EA’s pinion shaft. I say “cut” as it’s much more involved than that. When I snapped my first pinion shaft weld job (someone did a massive dodgy on it, less than 2mm penetration around the circumference), I was “lucky” enough to be in the company of a good mate in WA that had a network of mates that knew someone that could do something I couldn’t do. So I got to watch the process of the cut and shut which is much more involved than is sounds. Basically each piece was shaved at the point determined as the strongest and not at a bearing position - from memory about 70mm from the back of the pinion gear head. One piece was made with a make stub and the other with as a female, both mating edges were beveled. These were then pressed together and the now beveled valley welded in. Once this was checked out on the large and was generally “true” (the shaft had a twist in it and the lathe a 0.004mm movement), a capping weld was done and this was shaved flat in the lathe. If the weld colour was the same, you would need an X-ray to know what was done. As for who to go through, I don’t know, you’ll have to investigate that. The tube that I shaved down is the spacer tube that the centre diff sits over. Because of a slight change in length of the pinion shaft, when the pinion shaft end nut was torqued up to spec I could not freely rotate the lower gear sets, or the pinion shaft independently of these. Shaving that tube down allowed this to occur as the lateral bearing(s) were no longer squashed. Best of luck with getting the parts together and the build in general! And I hope your health continues to improve and strengthen! Cheers Bennie

They’re certainly different! Personally the factory silver is where I’m at, but it’s your vehicle and you’ve got to be the one that loves looking at it, driving it and being seen driving it! Keep the glamour shots coming, something up close, looking down the side of the vehicle in full sun would bring out the blue in the rims I reckon. Cheers Bennie

Could the issue be a replacement valve that is slightly different to the other remaining (possibly factory) units? Thus sitting lower or higher than the others? Cheers Bennie

LEDs for headlights can go jump. They’re far too blue. And before you get on the it’s a better light bandwagon, it’s a very unstable wave variety of light. This means glare to incoming vehicles and less light returned to the driver to see what’s ahead of them. HIDs fall into this same category. I don’t care about current usage, I just want good reliable lighting that’s inexpensive to replace globes in. Cheers Bennie

Are these fully sealed units or semi sealed? I’m after a pair of low/hi and the dedicated hi beam lights that are semi sealed. And I’d like the dedicated hi beams to be a spot light lense - clear without any ripples or patterns in the glass lens. Cheers Bennie

Unless the seating of the spring at either end is not flush, I don’t see how this is an issue. It will still put pressure on the valve and act properly like a spring should! My 5c on the matter. Cheers Bennie