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el_freddo

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Everything posted by el_freddo

  1. el_freddo
    I’m hoping there’s a reply answer! I’m enjoying some of the thread digging going on - it’s good to see ppl doing searches on the forum, via google or otherwise. Cheers Bennie
  2. el_freddo
    Well done! Glad it’s sorted and I hope it stays that way for a long time to come! Enjoy the snow. I’m trying to savour what’s left of the relatively wet and cool summer we had down here! Cheers Bennie
  3. el_freddo
    I hope it’s the fix! Looking forward to hearing how the new ignition switch goes. Cheers Bennie
  4. el_freddo
    Ignition switch should be held in by two Phillips head screw/bolts opposite to the side that the key goes into. You should only need to remove the steering column cowling and maybe drop the steering column off it’s mount bolts to get more access. You don’t have to pull the ignition barrel out to replace the ignition switch! That has the funny looking bolts without a head on them. They’re designed to snap off once torqued up so the ignition barrel can’t be easily removed by thieves. I’m not sure that the starter relay mod will dive this issue since you mentioned it cranks over fine and will run in the start position but die in the ON position. You’d only need a 30a horn relay - same as what you hook driving lights up with. Cheers Bennie
  5. el_freddo
    My first thought is what voltage are you getting at the ignition switch when in the “ON” position? By running the wire from the positive of the battery to the coil you’ve effectively bypassed the ON setting of the ignition switch. This to me suggests an issue with the ignition switch. It’s possibly over 40yo so it’s done well! You could do this test twice - once just using the factory wiring as is, if that shows a low voltage reading then hook up that positive wire between the battery and coil then see what the voltage is at the back of the ignition switch, I’d expect it to be back feeding 12v if you got a low reading the first time. Cheers Bennie
  6. el_freddo
    B - swap LSD centre into the diff housing with the desired diff ratio. Easiest option when changing diff ratios with the LSD that’s retained. Cheers Bennie
  7. el_freddo
    Subarino auto in Perth sells a complete 2 inch kit for the MY and L series. Shipping to you would be the costly bit, no harm in asking about the kit anyway. Cheers Bennie
  8. el_freddo
    Some form of aftermarket engine management will definitely benefit your build for best performance and longivity. GD dealt with Link ECUs, others on here have used other brands, many of not all seem to do what’s required of them. Cheers Bennie
  9. el_freddo
    Sometimes you just happen to get both lights blow on the high or low beam. Replacing the globes rectified the issue? If not, that’s when to start digging deeper into the problem. Cheers Bennie
  10. el_freddo
    Sometimes it’s the simple things that cause the most grief (and wallet pain!). This relay mod is common on the early Liberty/Legacy’s too Cheers Bennie
  11. el_freddo
    Heads and all the associated gear will move over to the replacement block regardless of where it came from. The thing to check out is any differences in the pistons that may affect small things that may or may not become an issue. Sorry I can’t be more definitive on that front, I haven’t played much with the later model engine blocks so don’t know for sure. Cheers Bennie
  12. el_freddo
    Did you swap the timing gears over from the 2008 engine to the replacement 2001 engine? If not, that’s you’re issue I reckon. Cheers Bennie
  13. el_freddo
    It would all depend on what info the TCU wants and/or shares with the ECU. If it’s just a matter of throttle angle, speed sensor, engine revs it should be sweet if you wire it in properly. If it wants more from the ECU then it gets more complicated from there… could do a whole body loom swap and drag over the matching engine for the complete setup 🤔 Cheers Bennie
  14. el_freddo
    That was one of my thoughts but there’s a captive thread in that so where did the nut come from? I’d double check that you do in fact have the ball joint retainer bolt in place on either side and done up appropriately tight. You don’t want one of those ball joints dropping out and letting your hub take its own unplanned trip! My other thought was also the engine pitch stopper rod, I wonder if this was replaced with another bolt from somewhere else… Being that this was a “we” job - as in we did this and we did that… old mate isn’t stitching you up by placing this Subaru looking bolt in the mix of all your other nuts and bolts? That’s something a good mate might do as a prank! Cheers Bennie
  15. el_freddo
    The good news is that I can’t see it being a bolt from a major component like a ball joint or hub retainer bolt as they have captive threads, rendering that nut useless. And it’s too short for a suspension arm bolt. I’ve had this many times without issue. Keep the left over bits aside in a labelled container incase you find a missing bolt. While they’re off the vehicle consider the effort as weight reduction. Cheers Bennie
  16. el_freddo
    Thanks mate. Got the starting and idle issues sorted it seems. I think the idle mixture was too lean and driving it around hard for a bit may have moved come internal crud. Who knows?! Good news is it’s running well and seems to be returning good fuel economy. Cheers Bennie
  17. el_freddo
    I’ll chime in on GD’s behalf. Burn it. Burn it to the ground and get some old school GM gear to drive into the Armageddon. Ok, maybe I lathered that on a bit thick but that’s kind of how I read GD rolling. Cheers Bennie
  18. el_freddo
    And then buy what? Another car with someone else’s issues? I’d keep the vehicle you’ve ironed the issues out of. Otherwise trade it in at a dealership for a new vehicle and let them deal with it. Cheers Bennie
  19. el_freddo
    Worked perfect before I touched the carb. I didn’t strip any of it down and left it as is since the rebuild. It’s also summer down here atm - not very cold for morning cold starts. Cheers Bennie
  20. el_freddo
    Ok finally got an update on this one! I bit the bullet on buying a carb kit - for a DC 306 hitachi carb. This was a HTK-421 kit. Apparently for the needle and seat for the float valve I’d need the one from the kit HT432 but I didn’t bother and didn’t swap this bit as it wasn’t flooding the bowl. All went well with the rebuild. I’ve had to readjust my idle since tuning. Other thing I need to look into is why it’s hard to start when cold. The old double pump and crank trick doesn’t get it started. Once warmed up she fired up no worries! It runs well without any misfiring which I’m stoked about! Cheers Bennie
  21. el_freddo
    Email them the link to the YouTube video. That might get them moving with some action. Cheers Bennie
  22. el_freddo
    That bar work looks awesome all laid out like that! Good effort creating all of that. Having it painted would have it looking primo! Cheers Bennie
  23. el_freddo
    Bugger That second part number is a digit short. I can’t remember if it’s 673 or something else. I learned the other day that what you call a C clamp we call a G clamp over here - because it looks like a G! Thought I’d share Cheers Bennie
  24. el_freddo
    I hope you didn’t put the head gaskets on backwards so the oil gallery hole in the HG is on the wrong side! 🤞
  25. el_freddo
    Cruise is disabled when you’ve got a CEL. Only fix is to sort out the issue with the CEL, otherwise get used to maintaining your cruise speed with your right foot again. Cheers Bennie
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