el_freddo

When you say the machine shop did the side of the engine showing the low compression, did they just replace the valves? Or did they replace pistons and rings too? If they did pistons and rings, what condition were the two from the repaired side of the engine in? Asking as my L series used to drive awesome until you coasted for a period of time then got back on the throttle again. The worst situation was a long down hill section off throttle - back on the throttle again it was a smoke screen out the back! Replacing the PCV valve didn’t fix it. From memory the issue was cracked ring landing between the lower compression ring and the oil rings. I’m not saying this is the issue, anything is possible though. Changing your PCV valve could help. Sounds more likely that you’ve got stuffed or incorrectly fitted (stuffed!) valve stem seals. The vacuum generated at high revs with the throttle closed could pull quite a bit of oil past a damaged valve stem seal, especially on the intake valves. Not what you want to hear, this is one thing that could cause the symptom you’re experiencing. Cheers Bennie

When you say the power came back on are you saying the engine lost power/not all horses were working OR engine fired up again after stalling out OR that all electricals died for the moment of time as stated? Three very different situations for the one statement of “no power came back twice today” and “power came right back” etc. Sorry if you think I’m splitting hairs/being too critical - the more precise information shared about this the better chance of pin pointing the issue. Cheers Bennie

Probably a front crank seal. That’s my guess. This happened on my brumby once. That was a fun drive home hoping I didn’t starve it if oil! Cheers Bennie

Both fans should run with the AC on. I believe this operation should be at the slower “quiet” speed. There should be a faster speed for times when the engine is hot/working hard with or without AC on. There may be times that only the primary fan operates but I’m unsure of this. Cheers Bennie

We reference the EA81/EA82 to differentiate the models - mainly between the brumby parts and the EA82 stuff, somehow they still manage to get them mixed up without the engine reference… we typically don’t reference the DL/GL spec as that’s usually a trim level thing mainly. Cheers Bennie

I would’ve thought EA82 at least since the title says 1986 GL. In saying that I was confused as to what part he was looking for until I searched that part number that gave a better description. Now we wait for a reply I guess. Cheers Bennie

How did you manage to break that?

G’day Groucho, Can’t help with that OEM number/item. Did you remove the old bushes’ outer steel casing? A mate of mine recommended this site for suspension components: https://drwbushings.myshopify.com They should have what you need. Cheers Bennie

Other way around. 4.44:1 ratio diff/final drive is the shortest ratio subaru make. If it was a change to 3.7:1 then it might struggle a bit. I’d be fixing the engine timing first and getting that running right. What symptoms are you experiencing that got you to the conclusion of a burnt out torque converter? I also find it interesting that many find the JDM engines not as good as the USDM units. They’re really same-same but made in a different location! If you’ve still got your original engine it could be a good time/move to swap the head gaskets etc and get it back in action - if your budget permits. Also check your trans fluid level with the engine running in Park or Neutral Cheers Bennie

Those spacers can be fun. I hope he’s got a good torx kit and that your bolts holding those spacers down are in good condition. Not fun. All the best with it. I’ve not had the gasket under the spacers leak, ever. Mind you, that’s only going by two EA81 engines in our family. Cheers Bennie

That’s an awesome fix for a crappy situation! Good on you for thinking outside the box and even better for sharing! I’m guessing you had to drill out the hole in the water pump to accommodate that style of nut, correct? Cheers Bennie

Good find on that rear diff issue. Way easier to deal with in the shed than out on the tracks! Time to throw a torq locker at it?? Cheers Bennie

Find out if there’s an amplifier and if there is it’ll probably be under the carpet somewhere. Cheers Bennie

Seems about right to me. If the system is cooling properly it will shut off until gas temps rise again to trigger the AC pump on. Be glad you have good working AC on a 20+ year old vehicle! In saying all of that, I’m also no expert. Cheers Bennie

The line under the tank you can’t see is back to the water pump much like the heater line does, it plumbs in at the same spot on the water pump on its own port. The yellow line is to purge air from the radiator. The standard turbo radiator doesn’t have a rad cap and relies on this line to help fill the radiator when replacing coolant/initial fill after rebuild etc. Green as stated is the radiator overflow. Think of the cooling system as being upside down. The heater, oil cooler and turbo circuits (including the remote reservoir) come from the block to the turbo, oil cooler and heater independently and return to the waterpump independently. This coolant comes in at the back of the thermostat which meters how much cold coolant from the radiator is allowed into the engine. The outflow to the radiator is simply an overflow of hot coolant and is why Subarus both NA and Turbo warm up so quickly even in cold weather. Looking at a diagram of the coolant flow in the FSM is helpful with these things too. Cheers Bennie

Remove the starter motor hand have a look at the clutch pressure plate for signs of damage. Im guessing there’s no noises when gear is selected and the clutch released? Also not asked yet, what brand of clutch was put in 10,000 miles ago? It’s certainly an odd one! Cheers Bennie

Nope. Well, at least not easily. It would be super slow at best. 2nd/3rd/4th gears work? Or do they at least try to move the car once the clutch is actuated? The thief may have completely stripped 1st gear. Drain the oil and see what comes out with it. If it happens to be dual range like we have over here, it could be in neutral between low and high range. But I doubt you’ve got a dual range gearbox in your EJ Subi stateside… Cheers Bennie

It’s all Lego! Plenty of EJ20s kicking around in Oz if you need pistons etc - but you won’t need them if you look after it (or your mate more to the point). Cheers Bennie

I forgot to mention that about the crank gear. Glad you got it sorted! Cheers Bennie

Also make sure you’re not lining up the arrow on the cam wheels - look for the little line on the rim of the wheel and line that up with the mark on the cam cover. Sounds like you’re almost there! Someone else might know - ‘96 an interference engine? The Gen2 EJ22 got a bump in power and I believe is an interference engine as a result. Cheers Bennie

Yes, very vague. Thought adding the manuals can’t be driven in front wheel drive would have all bases covered Cheers Bennie

If a manual gearbox you can’t drive it in FWD.

That they do: https://www.autoglasswarehouse.com.au/subaru-leone-10-1979-to-7-1984-and-brumby-1-1982-t I reckon you’ll post stateside if you ask. Cheers Bennie

I love those little levers for the low range and diff lock - just like dad’s old WWII Willy’s Jeep! We used to lose the shift levers from time to time and had to back track to find them… Cheers Bennie

DPF full/needing replacement? Other thought was a dodgy ignition switch. Do you have power at the ECU when cranking? That’ll be the tell tale of a dodgy ignition switch, especially if you’ve got power in the on position. Earths all in good condition? Getting power to the engine harness from the main bulkhead harness? That’s where I’d be looking. All the best!