el_freddo

If you have metal end tanks they’ll be aftermarket or custom. Metal end tanks were left with the MY/BRAT models. Everything since is plastic tanks with alloy core. Cheers Bennie

I didn’t think this could be done. So I’ll be keen to know if you can interchange like this. Cheers Bennie

Std = short hand for standard. The rad shop won’t be able to “add” the second row of channels. They might be able to replace the core with a dual core and re-use the end tanks, but with them being plastic and so old, I’d have them make up metal end tanks. Cheers Bennie

@SiriusBlack - you dug very deep for this thread! I’m 99% sure that the Leone radiator will not properly fit in the XT. Someone will know though. Cheers Bennie

$40USD a good price? I’d imagine it would cost more over here but that would be relative to cost of living vs wages etc. Cheers Bennie

To send bits for this OS, you’d need the EJ phase one gearbox’s internals - minus the centre diff housing, pinion shaft and front diff. Typically you move the selection forks with the gearsets. The EJ low range can be left behind - the PT4wd L series 1.59:1 low range can be fitted with a few mods - namely the low range hub that sits on the front of the upper gearset. Input bearing mods won’t be required as the L series one will be kept. In essence, the phase 1 (4 bolt gearbox) drive gears and reverse is what needs to be sent if using a dual range EA front case set. Heavy, but not as bulky as a gearbox or a gearbox minus the rear cases/housings (centre diff and rear transfer). Break a gear and you’re back to square one. Cheers Bennie

Rafael, They are rebuildable! I can’t find the part numbers for the seals but I know I’ve seen them at some point in time on a forum... I’d like to redo mine too Hopefully someone will have those part numbers Cheers Bennie

No. You need an EJ AWD dual range to do this. The PT4wd dual range has a pinion shaft where the lower gears mount to the shaft. The AWD locking centre box is the design prior to the EJ AWD box and uses the same lower gearset setup where they’re mounted on a tube that the pinion shaft lives in. The EA AWD pinion shaft is much much longer than the EJ pinion shaft. The catch in the US is the lack of EJ dual range boxes available thanks to your taxation system effectively phasing them out in the EJ series vehicles (from what I understand). In Oz and other markets the dual range box was produced for another decade and a bit. I’m not up with when/if they canned it in the later models. In my L series I have the locking centre diff in a “bitza box” - phase two EJ dual range cases with matching drive gears (these don’t fit in a phase 1 box without mods rocks the reverse gears), L series 1.59:1 low range, custom 4.111:1 diff ratio on the locking centre diff pinion shaft. I’ve added oil “feeders” over the low range gears to help keep them cool and to lubricate them on hill climbs. It can be done, but you need that dual range EJ gearset from the phase 1 box, these are interchangeable into the EA cases. Cheers Bennie

That is one dodgy looking AC add on! Ours over here had the AC then Alt going out from the crank. I reckon you need the standard water pump and alt belt. Going for the “stock” water pump and Alt with AC will be far too long. All the best with it! Cheers Bennie

JDM GT wagon had auto antenna. Not likely that you have one of these but it is something that exists on the L body Cheers Bennie

I run without the trim pieces on my L. Works a treat, I don’t miss the trim pieces but I still have them. Cheers Bennie

Also if the belts were done, or you did them, verify that when the crank mark is aligned that one can is at 12 o’clock and the other is a 6 o’clock. It doesn’t matter which is which, it just matter that both cams are 180* apart. And as Dave said for the fuel pump issue. In Australia our test connectors (green and black) are located above the driver’s feet behind the kick panel. Cheers Bennie

No, he’s saying that with the intake in place the bolts seem to bottom out before any torque is applied to clamp the intake manifold to the head. Cheers Bennie

Welcome @Blooroo86xtGL! Use the search function. The XT6 is where to get all the parts from. But they’re super rare now from what I understand. Cheers Bennie

What hose lines are you replacing? 12 feet of fuel hose sounds VERY excessive unless I’m missing something there. That’s enough fuel hose to go front to back with plenty to spare after ONE hose. Cheers Bennie

Hey chopper, As Ido said, you’re attempting to put hydraulic valve lash adjustment camshafts into a roller rocker camshaft actuation setup. EJ22 heads will interchange and bolt up. It’s the differences in exhaust ports and EGR setup that catches you guys out. We have dual port on all EJ engines in Oz. Have you looked at a delta cam grind? You could probably use the ‘95 cams as the core exchange if they operate that way. Cheers Bennie

The oil pump housings are brittle and I reckon most sales of new pumps were for replacement of broken ones during a seal replacement job. Cheers Bennie

Anything is possible. If you’re going to go that way, I’d look into a remote mounted electric oil pump setup. Cheers Bennie

I’ve done a roadside EFI pump swap once or twice before... It’s not hard unless you’re trying not to get dirty (or smelly from the fuel). I usually have a spare in the back since I off-road in some quite remote places - if you had to walk it could be a good day or two before you made it to a decent unsealed road, and sand saps energy big time! So it’s “cheaper” to carry spare parts like this, it’s paid off once. Cheers Bennie

Install a quality aftermarket oil pressure gauge if you want an accurate reading. I’ve had one on my EJ22’d L series and I can tell when my oil is low or the engine is hot from the change in oil pressure. Mine’s mechanical, you can get electrical if you want too. Cheers Bennie

Through the rear side window rubber or trim piece under the window. It’ll most likely be the lower front corner that’s the culprit if it’s the window rubber leaking. The leak will drop into the wall cavity, above the rear wheel, then flow down into that rear well area. Leave this issue and you’ll end up with rust coming through from the inside to outside. Cheers Bennie

Steptoe is talking about the intake manifold bolt holes, not the ones on the head Cheers Bennie

An alternative is to shave the bolts 3-4mm shorter. Cheers Bennie

It seems there’s an issue with the thread at the bottom of the hole, or some debris down there stopping you from getting the bolt all the way in. You might need a thread chaser with a straight edge on the leading face to get to the bottom of the threads in each hole. A tapered end won’t do the job. Have you sat the intake manifold on with the gasket in place and checked to see if the bolts can be torqued with contact on the intake manifold? When you fit the manifold, don’t forget that pesky little coolant hose from the top of the block. It’s a PITA to get to with the manifold on, but not impossible. Cheers Bennie

Have a read of this thread. You should get some ideas in here Cheers Bennie