el_freddo

Make sure you grease the slide pins too. Clean out their guide holes before reassembly. Usually crusty old grease can cause a sticky guide resulting in brake shudder - but usually only under braking conditions. Glad to see you’re on the path to remedy the issue! Cheers Bennie

The EJ22 was known as EJ22E - dunno where the E came from and I don’t know that it changed when they went to an interference setup. From the EJ20G I get a bit sketchy. I think there was an EJ20H from the twin turbo setup of the early to mid 90’s. These apparently were know for spinning bearings. Theres the NA EJ251 and EJ253. Difference is AVCS or what ever it’s called to control valves etc. Anyway, I’m sure there’s a list somewhere you could find on the web. Cheers Bennie

Hey it is Jono! https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2490184 Pic in there of what I think you’re after. Google search shows up images of this part for sale on various sites Cheers Bennie

Is that you Jono?!

@Kimon - post up some pics of what your dealing with. This can help use identify what you’re dealing with and how to go about repairing the issue. Cheers Bennie

If going from an L series to an L series you could reloom the recipient vehicle with the donor vehicle’s wiring loom. Otherwise cut down the donor loom to extract the SPFI engine management system. Splice in the necessary wires to get it to work in the donor vehicle, laying the SPFI management over the recipient’s wiring that’s already there. Cheers Bennie

Exhaust Y pipes and mid pipe at a minimum - you could take whole exhaust with the intention to modify to fit until you come up with the coin for a custom exhaust. Airbox and intake to engine if that’s somehow overlooked. I think you’ve got everything covered. The driveshafts could be sold on and the rear diff will bolt into your wagon. Ratio might be different though. Little nuts and bolts could be good to grab for little jobs etc. interior lights could be fitted to the MY wagon. Anything is better than the factory cabin light in the MYs!! Cheers Bennie

There’s two different gearboxes that use the same vacuum actuation system - the single range part time 4wd gearbox and the All Wheel Drive (full time 4wd) gearbox in both single and dual range configurations. PT4wd, the engagement lever on the side of the gearbox pivots from a high point with the lever pointing down the FT4wd/AWD locking lever pivots from a low point on the side of the gearbox and the lever points upwards. Do whichever of the following first, it doesn’t really matter. You will need to find out if you have power at the solenoids and that it switches with changing the switch for the diff lock/4wd engagement. If that checks out you need to look at vacuum, both the source of the vacuum and the hoses to the diaphragm - and ensure the diaphragm itself doesn’t have a leak. The locking/engaging mechanism isn’t known for issues. You can manually check the engagement by raising a wheel off the ground and doing as idosubaru said with the removal of the cable off the side of the gearbox while rotating the tailshaft to get the engagement/locking mechanism to line up to do its thing. I hope that makes sense! Cheers Bennie

That sounds more like maintenance oversight than an issue with the oil cooler leaking! I’ve not heard of any of the turbo engines that run the same system having issues. Technically it’s a heat transfer device - goes either way - hot climate = cooling effect for oil, cold climate = faster warm up of the oil to its optimum operating temp... Anyway, moving on! Cheers Bennie

Isn’t the turbo setup a twin port head with a matching MPFI intake manifold? Over here in Oz anything MPFI - turbo or NA requires the matching heads to the MPFI intake to make the multi port system to work. You can’t bolt MPFI to carb heads - it just won’t work! Unless there’s something majorly different with the US spec turbo setup but I think it’s the same as it is here. Cheers Bennie

First I’ve heard of oil coolers being known for coolant leaks... Cheers Bennie

PS: also check the fuel pump hasn’t carked it.

And secured properly. I had the cam sensor “walk” out of its slot because the retainer but was loose - engine stalled and wouldn’t start until the cam was pushed back in and secured. With Subarus it’s always a good idea to fit the long block from the donor vehicle with the intake from the recipient vehicle. Swap over cam timing gear if needed - but probably not an issue in your case. Check the timing belt, you could have a collapsed bearing on one of the idler pulleys, this will throw out the timing, and make it very difficult if not impossible to start. Cheers Bennie

You’ll probably find you will have little visual access to the cylinders with the sump off in the EA82 from what I remember of my rebuild well over a decade ago - so I could be wrong. I just remember a rib like cage below the crank area, probably for strength. Personally, I’d say hunt for a good EJ. Cheers Bennie

If you want the proper turbo setup from the 86 you’ll need to swap the heads and cut down the wiring loom for the engine management system. Or reloom the whole vehicle with the turbo loom. The 90 - mpfi or spfi? If spfi, you could both that directly onto the 87 and run the engine management system from the donor car. You could add the turbo, but it won’t last for long - those that have done it end up cracking the NA pistons. Cheers Bennie

Agreed. EJs are good at maintaining a small HG leak for a long time without any real issues. Then things get hot at times and that’s your first sign of impending troubles in the HG department. Cheers Bennie

Never heard that term before. Always a grease nipple over here. We love nipples Cheers Bennie

I’ve read up on knurling pistons but that’s way outside my skill set and tools available to me! Great idea though! Cheers Bennie

Al - get the SF forestry box and shove that in. 1.447:1 low range from factory, and 26 inch tyres from factory. All your ratios will be pulled back to where they should be and you’ll be loving life again! As for the gearbox: - phase 1 EJ box fits inside the L series casing - but it must be dual range to dual range and single range to single range swap. The AWD centre diff housing will bolt on the back of the L series EA front cases. - if you find the L series AWD locking centre diff gearbox (XT4/XT6/RXII coupes/GT wagons) you can swap in EJ diff ratios with a cut and shut on the pinion shaft. You can also fit the L series 1.59:1 low range - if going with the above: the 1.59:1 low range will clear the 4.111:1 and 4.44:1 diff ring gear once it’s shaved down appropriately. @Al Zhiemer - if going the foz box (phase two would be better as it’s stronger) you can fit the L series 1.59:1 low range with a few mods and the shaving of the ring gear. See here: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=13511 You will also be able to run the EJ clutch setup etc. makes it very easy for parts. You could even put the 4.44 diff ratio in if you wanted too. But as you say, sourcing one isn’t easy! ISSUES: - EJ dual range boxes don’t exist in the US like they do in oz. - L series AWD boxes aren’t easy to find either! @rallybru310 - 27 is probably the best tyre option to avoid body bashing to make tyres fit. Also make/get the strut lift built with the camber adjustment built into it. This will straighten up the eye and reduce that positive camber which typically becomes exaggerated with a poorly made lift kit. In my L series I’m running an EJ22 with SG phase 2 front cases and drive gears, 1.59:1 L series low range, custom 4.111:1 diff ratio (pinion shaft is the custom bit for ->), L series locking centre AWD diff, oil “feeders” over the low range gears for cooling and it’s about to cop a rear torq locker. It’s running 27 inch tyres and a 3 inch lift kit. I’m also using factory EJ solid flywheel and clutch setup. It’s got factory engine management that’s more than I need. Apart from some machining for the low range hub, an interference bush on the input shaft, shaving of the crown wheel and the custom work on the pinion shaft it’s essentially all DIY’d. A series 1 L series PT4wd box with 3.9 diff ratios could be a good way to go too. The series 2 L series PT4wd box over here are all 3.7 diff ratio. Cheers Bennie

Take them back and demand a refund. The bearings should be an interference fit fit and need quite a bit of persuasion to get them in. The inner CV falling apart doesn’t make sense why it’s happening. Cheers Bennie

Late reply, but generally any factory dump pipe will work. Build your exhaust from the end of that. Cheers Bennie

Maybe you’ll be the first for a remote mount electric oil pump? Cheers Bennie

You will need to have your tailshaft machined to fit the replaceable uni joints. I’ve not done this work, only heard about others doing it. I don’t know if the machining is to get rid of the stakes that hold the factory uni’s in or if it includes machining a flat spot for the C clips to sit on properly. I might get around to doing this one day... Cheers Bennie

^ Post two by GD. He suggests leaving vertical scoring as its typical for an older engine - any bore work will result in oil burning. ^ Read the whole thread! Very informative about engine work. I’ll leave it off here for now. Cheers Bennie

A mate called “Subarino” in Perth, WA has one of less than a hand full of Hatches in Oz, he’s running an EJ22 with the SC14 supercharger on 5 or 6 pounds. It went well before he sold it. Then he bought it back in rough condition and it’s been parked up in his shed for a resto between everything else he does. For him, body parts are the problem to repair rust... All that aside, the supercharger went very well on the EJ22! Cheers Bennie