el_freddo

The RELAY is under the dashboard beside the main loom power relay. The power wire to the fuel pump is usually a thick black/red stripe wire. Cheers Bennie

Well you inspired me to check it out last night. Good weather for it, mid 20’s, loads of mozzies Turned out a shim on the inner pad was rubbing the disc momentarily. I’d also fitted the inner pads the wrong way around. Double Retainer bolt was loose. Thought to myself “that was lucky!”. Went to the RHS to swap the pads and the retainer bolt was MISSING. Not happy. Found a new bolt. All is good. No noises now Cheers Bennie

Dodgy title alert!! Doesnt sound good mate - the car issue. You might have got lucky and the batt gave out before the coolant boiled. Cheers Bennie

There is no difference between the belts when using the old and new style tensioner. The ONLY belt differences is between the SOHC and the DOHC belts. You should be using the SOHC belt. As for the no start - did you disconnect or remove the cam or crank sensors? These are vital sensors for the ECU to time fuel and spark pulses with. Cheers Bennie

I thought about it yesterday when cruising into town... it has to be something like a bent edge of the dust shield but I can’t work it out with the wheel in place. I’ll definitely update this thread once I work out what it is. Not drive ability issues associated with the noise. Cheers Bennie

I reported it to a mod/admin Cheers Bennie

I wish my phone would show the pics Sounds like it was a real gem Regards Bennie

Don’t worry, I change my clutch cable when they break. Not always convenient but I get the most out of them that way Cheers Bennie

I reckon the thieves may have practiced/learned how to drive a manual in your Subi. That or they just don’t know how to and rode the clutch hard. The 4wd/clicking issue. If it’s actually in 4wd there could be an issue with a front driveshaft - possibly a broken CV joint that won’t transfer power to the wheel, selecting 4wd allows the vehicle to be driven, effectively in rear wheel drive. $1000 sounds about right for parts and labour with a clutch replacement. DIY would drop this to about $300 in parts I reckon. Cheers Bennie

Hey mate, good score on the jump seats too! Hopefully in wicked condition with the canopy on there. I too am a Montero fan. We have a Gen3 NP diesel auto in my family. Over here they’re called a Pajero... if you speak Spanish you’ll know why they’re called Montero or Shogun in other places. Cheers Bennie

All the best with the title. These old beauties need to be saved where possible! Cheers Bennie

Welcome Carl! Cheers Bennie

Front seats - there’s a button on one of the base plates the head rest slides into. Press on this and pull the head rest out. Rear seats (wagon) - same mechanism, but it could be on the underside of the back of the seat in the cargo/luggage area - I can’t remember exactly though. I hope this helps! Cheers Bennie

It could be the actuator diaphragm that’s leaking. To me, this is the harder part to get. Permanent 4wd use won’t be nice on engine and gearbox mounts, drive shafts, tyres and the body overall. You will accelerate wear on all of these items. Cheers Bennie

Both solenoids have the little atmospheric hat on one end. The other end goes to the diaphragm actuator. Then there’s a vacuum in hose line too. Cheers Bennie

Geez mate, not good! Glad to hear you walked away from it. Make sure you get yourself checked out for any neck or back injuries that haven’t surfaced yet. All the best and I hope they catch the mongrel(s)! Cheers Bennie

Dunno that you can get them new. But the single range part time L’s use the same setup. They could be a good source of parts. The other option is to retro fit a set of vacuum actuators from a Pajero Montero/Shogun/Pajero Gen 3 to 4. The front diff actuators on these use a very similar set of vacuum solenoids that could be made to work the way you need them to. Like this: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MR430381-MB937731-Vacuum-Switch-Solenoid-Valve-FOR-Mitsubishi-Pajero-L200-L300/143290382011?fits=Model%3APajero&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item215cc5b6bb:g:svcAAOSw7QVc~1Lj if you can’t find it, eBay search Pajero vacuum and you should find something very similar to what’s on your strut tower. Cheers Bennie

This part fell into the bell housing area on my sister’s Gen3. Dunno how that happened. I found the shaved down remains when I had the engine pulled for HGs... Cheers Bennie

Yep. One access port behind the flywheel is held in with some countersunk Phillips head bolts. The best way to get these out is with an impact driver. Cheers Bennie

Hey Jeszek, I haven’t read this thread before now. Awesome story with the car. Same head gasket?? Like ccrinc, it was sad to read you were about to embark on a real milestone drive with your father but then he unexpectedly passed away. While you may feel empty and sad that he’s not there, remember all the good times you shared together with him and as a family travelling around in the car. We have a kind of similar story in terms of age of ownership of a vehicle - it’s a 1929 Chevrolet six cylinder tourer. Dad built it with his brother in their late teens. It’s been registered ever since and would be on 50 years of continual registration since the late 60’s or the early 70’s. We’re currently looking for a head gasket solution for it... As for your fuse box issue, do you have a solution yet? Got any pics of the fuse panel with some dimensions? Cheers Bennie

I like your style @turboguzzi Cheers Bennie

EA81 turbo fuel tank will certainly have the internal baffles. Your ingredients for your build have been done time and time again (MY body, EJ22, EA82 5speed box). The trick in your build will be choosing a lift and tyre size that isn’t too tall (tyres mainly), then doing the wiring right as Numbchux mentioned. Cheers Bennie

Same windscreen as the ‘84 GL. Can you get the one you found shipped? We can still get them new in Australia. O’Briens glass replaced mine last year. If the one is through a glass company, see if they can ship it and fit it! Cheers Bennie

If you have a tin plate you might be able to do it. If you have the cast alloy plate, you’ll need the countersunk screws to make it all work with flywheel clearances etc. Cheers Bennie

Nah he’s still building it between work and uni if he hasn’t graduated already from what I know. The body work is a master piece in the flesh. Photos just don’t do it justice! Cheers Bennie