el_freddo

Silverbullet has it done ages ago. Scroll down to the pic of the twins on the engine with the dirty alternator and you’ll see his trigger wheel on the crank pulley and the sensor mounted off the old dizzy hole using a plate. https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=68&t=25427&start=165 there might be details of this setup earlier in the thread that I may have missed. Cheers Bennie

So it was a fuse issue? They’re the best ones to have when they’re not reoccurring on a regular basis! Cheers Bennie

Probably a bearing issue. Does it ever slip out of gear when crushing? Is there a gear that’s hard to get into? Was the oil dirty looking? And how much came out roughly? Loads of oil can remain in the gearbox after it’s drained. My guess is that it’s an upper shaft bearing. The wa-wa-wa noise you’re hearing could be the bearing rotating or a particular gear rotating. I’m guessing it changes with revs too. This to me points to a bearing issue for sure. That piece you found looks to be cast. The only things I can think that are cast inside the gearbox is the front diff (open), lower shaft rear bearing plate, the gear selector shaft, selector fork shafts and possibly the centre diff. Still, I can’t pin point exactly where it came from. Replacement box is probably best for least amount of downtime on the vehicle. Splitting the box has the most educational value And don’t worry, if you can work on everything motorcycle, you’ll be right with the “big” (but small by comparison to other) gearboxes! Cheers Bennie

So how many car spaces did you have before you realised you needed to stop? Cheers Bennie

Wasted?? WASTED?! Say what?? You mean you made a great decision to read all of this thread! Kudos to you, it’s pretty huge now! As for the Loyale - you’ll like the stitch welding! It really stiffens up the body of the vehicle nicely. You can also do the rally mods with the floor plates and the triangulation from the A pillar across to the strut tower inside the front guards. Have fun! Start another thread for us to “waste” more time reading about Cheers Bennie

Google EJ22. Best performance part for these vehicles! Best of luck finding those parts. By the time you’ve found and paid for them you could have an EJ22 conversion done easy! It’s the best way to deal with NLA parts - upgrade to a newer engine Cheers Bennie

Well you know how to even that out! Cheers Bennie

Waaaa-hhhaaaatttt??? That’s crazy!

Airbox to the side or airbox centred on top of the engine? If centred on top of the engine, it’s a carb. If on the RHS of the vehicle it’s EFI. Single port or multi port it doesn’t really matter. Cheers Bennie

Congrats mate! Now drive like an oldie with five car spaces between you and the car in front Cheers Bennie

Now you have adjustable cam timing! Cheers Bennie

Uni joint on the tail shaft. Check them for play. Also inspect you engine/gearbox mounts. Cheers Bennie

Wheel alignment for all four wheels will also play a part in how grounded/grippy the car feels on the road too. Cheers Bennie

If the cam wheels are metal there’s no need to replace them. Check to ensure the oil leak isn’t from the head gaskets. I’m not sure that this is an EJ25D issue, just an EJ251 issue. Welcome to the forum! Cheers Bennie

Just a flesh wound, she’ll be right! (The legacy). Glad to see the coupe coming along. Looks like a top job done on the repair work. Cheers Bennie

Sounds painful mate! Cheers Bennie

If unsure of diff ratio (there’s usually a sticker on the back of the rear diff on these older Subaru’s), swap in the rear diff from the donor car. It will bolt in no worries. Drive shafts - use the MY units front and rear. I thought you’d have more EJ conversion questions than what you didn’t have there Cheers Bennie

Front doors backwards is different. Centre console swaps over too. Great for parts. PS and AC will swap in. Cheers Bennie

1) replace head gaskets and have the heads shaved - before you toast that engine good and proper 2) drop an EJ conversion in 3) drive till it pops good a proper. Junk it and buy a newer Subaru. I vote option 2. Cheers Bennie

Broke and mods don’t go in the same sentence! What you can do is basic maintenance things - quality spark plugs and leads. Suspension handling is an area you could look into. There are parts out there second hand that will improve the handling of the vehicle. Suspension bush replacement could be a good option too. But really, how long are you looking at keeping the vehicle for? If you’re moving it on in a few years just save your coin for the next vehicle and get what you want in a factory package Cheers Bennie

Yeah the side view mirrors. The JDM had them and I believe they were switched separately and self folding too. A mate had them on his JDM imported Outback. Bit of a wasted feature in Australia for the most part! Cheers Bennie

Was it DIY’d in a dude’s shed or built by a shop? Is the suspension mount points lifted into the body of the vehicle to lower it but keep good suspension geometry for best performance and low centre of gravity? I reckon this build will be one of a kind for the above reasons. That’s what makes it epic - DIY built and will meet required class specs/scrutineering. Not everything epic has to be about money and power numbers - where’s the personal skill in that build? Cheers Bennie

Rear diff plug looks to be normal. If there were chunks of metal instead of fine particles, then I’d be concerned! Cheers Bennie

Another blank will be for rearview mirror heater switch. Cheers Bennie

Those coins also means the head hasn’t over heated since the last work was done. They’re there as a warranty on their work. Over heat the heads and the coins fall off. Cheers Bennie