el_freddo

Same as L series and BRAT. I hammer them out with a mallet and a piece of hard wood. Cheers Bennie

EA82sare non interference so it wouldn’t be a valve issue unless it was major, in which case it’d be making more nasty noises than that (if it would run at all). Check your tensioners are still locked in place, it sounds like one is loose. Or you have a big end issue. I’m hoping tensioner Cheers Bennie

Further to Dave’s question - did you ever have a full dipstick to begin with? Cheers Bennie

I haven’t personally. Many have though. Do a search for Anderson in the member’s sub forum and see what comes up. If that doesn’t work try a google search with “site: www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum” on the end of it Cheers Bennie

Auto, you should be able to pull the speedo drive gear and swap from what I understand of auto boxes. The sensor will be on the front diff housing as opposed to the manual box that has it midway down the side of the gearbox on the front half case. There might be an easy fix to this after all. Got the old box to pull the speedo drive cable from? Also - have you confirmed that this box is the same diff ratio as your old one? If there’s a ratio swap you’ll need to swap the rear diff too! Cheers Bennie

If you buy a turbo vehicle, fit a turbo engine to it. Fitting the NA will have wiring issues, the intake manifold may not fit, some sensors may not be the same, cam wheel trigger points could be an issue. Theres a reason why turbo cars can be cheap - quick sale for a not quick car. You could buy it and get a create engine, drop it in and make sure the initial issue that cooled the first engine is resolved. Cheers Bennie

Ah mate, that sucks. Glad you’re ok though! I hope your coupe has a speedy recovery too. All the best Bennie

Do an eBay search or ask at your local electronics store, they should have what you need Cheers Bennie

Transfer case can’t be changed. Subaru did things a bit differently in that department. Engine, gearbox and diff will all interchange and bolt in. Dropping the low range won’t have a huge impact on the use of the vehicle. Clutch will swap in no worries. Rear suspension parts will swap over. There will be a difference in the rear struts. Engine wiring is different, use the intake manifold from the vehicle it came from to run either engine (clear as mud?). I know you got your answers, thought I’d answer in case anyone else is searching for the same. I don’t think I’ve read that thread about the Gen1 and Gen2 compatibility. Cheers Bennie

It won’t be the speed sensor, it will be the little drive gear in the gearbox. This means a gearbox split to swap it to the outback spec drive gear. You should be able to install and calibrate a vehicle speed sensor modifier/adjuster unit. It will require some wiring action and some calibration work when driving on the road. You will need a second person to complete this calibration. What you have is opposite to what gbhrps talks about, and that setup is dangerous in my opinion. It’ll be speed ticket bait too! Cheers Bennie

Gross generalisation warning!! My mum and mother in-law both drive manuals full time. My wife knows how to drive a manual and is quite competent. Before we met she only drove auto. My sister drives a manual, my cousin ten years younger than me drives a manual. Generally females will go an auto over a manual, but that doesn’t mean they don’t know how to drive a manual/stick shift. Cheers Bennie

Have you looked into new turbos from the likes of the ATV crowd? They’d be about the right size for the EA82T. Cost will be the limiting factor here I reckon. Cheers Bennie

^ my thoughts too Cheers Bennie

Umm... mtb’s as in mountain bikes? That’s a little different than the internal operations of an engine Jonno!! That will fill a bit of a gap or slack in the system rather than using the rocker adjustment setup. But it won’t provide any extra lift/opening to the valve’s movement. Cheers Bennie

You will want a full body lift kit. This drops the suspension subframes down with the struts allowing for larger wheels. Adding just spring Lift will take away from your drool or down travel from the normal ride height of the suspension. If you go this way, you’ll chew out your CV joints in no time flat and off-road you’ll lift wheels all the time. Cheers Bennie

Who knows, it could dramatically effect the performance if the valves are not opened far enough. I’d split the block while it’s just a short block and matech the cam to the lifters or vice versa. You’re already there basically. Cheers Bennie

Hydraulic lifter cams will usually have a higher profile/larger lobes for lift. Usually. I’ve heard that machine shops prefer hydraulic lifter cams when grinding new profiles for a solid lifter engine because there’s plenty of meat to use for the change of opening angles, duration and height. Cheers Bennie

FSM = factory service manual. Cheers Bennie

You guys get smog still? That’s crazy! I remember the smog induced ozone over Melbourne in the 90’s - we would see the brown dome over the city as we approached from our rural setting. We would always come home with headaches after a visit to the big smoke. Now that’s a very rare event, if it happens at all these days. Thats so good with the experience you’ve had with GD and his crew. From an outside perspective and not ever having done business with GD (never will due to locations), it was awesome to read about the communication from GD’s workshop and yourself through what you shared with us on here. Very positive!! Have a safe drive, lay off the smokes (it’s bushfire season!) and enjoy the ride! Cheers Bennie

The stealing for OS doesn’t really happen here. It used to happen for interstate sales, but with the state authorities finally getting their act together and sharing info, this is a lot harder to do now. Chop shops are sort of a thing of the past really, but organised gangs are known to buy a legit car and plan to steal one of the same make/model etc and do a driveline/interior/accessories swap. Then cut the stolen body up and dump it (probably recycle it these days), after all that sell the legit car for a much higher price and a tidy profit. This happens very quickly once the target is stolen. Cheers Bennie

Is there ever such a thing as this?? I think not. Just scum. Cheers Bennie

I can’t work out how that valve master system works - is there another piece require to fit one of those tools into? I’ll keep it simple at my end - I’ve used this a number of times successfully: https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-2078D-Universal-Overhead-Compressor/dp/B0002STSGC#immersive-view_1575671478784 pretty easy to use on EJ251 heads, it’d be a different story on DOHC heads I reckon. I didn’t get mine from Amazon, I got it from a local store. Cheers Bennie

Short block = block only. Long block = block and heads, nothing else. What GD is saying is that you need to take the 2011 heads and fit them to the 2008 block. Job done. Cheers Bennie

Awesome! I’m surprised you didn’t notice the difference in the cam sprockets - an easily noticeable difference without removing the timing kit. As of why one has seven and the other only two, it’s related to the changes in the crank pulley tab count and how the ECU references both of these for ignition and injector pulse timings. Cheers Bennie

Yes they do. So not only do they get done for car theft, they also get done for arson IF they’re ever caught, more not caught or linked to the arson than those convicted. A burnt out stolen car of mine is probably my worst fear for my Subaru’s Cheers Bennie