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el_freddo

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Everything posted by el_freddo

  1. el_freddo
    That’s insane. Settle down Maverick! Cheers Bennie
  2. el_freddo
    Double post
  3. el_freddo
    @poorboy87 it’s not ignorance, it’s learning I only know of the cam and crank changes because it effected a mate of mine that basically did the same thing you’re doing... Cheers Bennie
  4. el_freddo
    I got an EJ22 and NEVER looked back. What a night and day difference!! Plus the EJ is uber reliable! Cheers Bennie
  5. el_freddo
    Black Friday... don’t buy anything until this one day of the year! How do retailers do it? Are they really ripping us off that much to make a “surviving”/living?? I think it was @snofool that runs this setup and has pics in his build thread. Looks like a very near setup! Cheers Bennie
  6. el_freddo
    Through the dip stick hole or the drain plug? Magent on a rope could work if it’s the right size to fit in the drain hole or the dipstick tube. Got a pic of what’s left of the dip stick? Cheers Bennie
  7. el_freddo
    AE, are you sleeping at night? I wouldn’t be due to pure anticipation! Cheers Bennie
  8. el_freddo
    Are you sure? Did you physically check the back of the cam wheel and compare the tabs to ensure they’re the same? The crank pulley can be done by eye without removing the cam belt or pulley. It’s got to be something simple that’s being overlooked like the cam wheel. Cheers Bennie
  9. el_freddo
    https://dynamco.com.au/product/446002-autowatch-alarm/ I’ll be installing one of these in the near future. Main problem with any decent alarm system is that they’re typically costly! Plenty of add ons depending on your needs. Cheers Bennie
  10. el_freddo
    That’s a bugger about the flywheel bolts! Sounds like you got on it at just the right time - when those bolts let go all kinds of hell breaks out! A mate of mine who’s into track racing has a small section of pipe that’s hammered around the outside of all the bolts and tack welded. This ensures the bolts can’t ever move. If you need to remove these bolts, simply grind off the tack welds and off you go. When’s the next race occurring? Cheers Bennie
  11. el_freddo
    I’d take that on in a heart beat if it were close enough to me over here! We know of only three in Australia! Cheers Bennie
  12. el_freddo
    Nice one Akg! I’ll be looking forward to some pics of the wagon. The 5 stud pattern has little to do with the lift other than the strut length in the front end. About ten years ago it was quite a common conversion on lifted L’s over here in Oz when crossbred performance were building bolt on kits for the 5 stud and bigger brake swap. Sounds like it’ll be a sweet setup once you’re done. Will you go for an EJ22 swap too? Cheers Bennie
  13. el_freddo
    If you wanted to keep the sedan you could replace the rear suspension on that corner. Then it’ll just be cosmetic from there. Cheers Bennie
  14. el_freddo
    That sucks mate! Just about everything will be interchangable between the two vehicles, other than rear panels etc. With the rear struts I think there is a difference with these but I think it’s the top hat and spring rate. You’ll love the wagon! Glad you were ok. Not fun, but everyone is safe, that’s the main thing. Cheers Bennie
  15. el_freddo
    I’d say it’s the bearing between 4th and 5th on the upper shaft. Probably caused by low oil. It’d be cool to pull the box and get some pics of it’s internals. Cheers Bennie
  16. el_freddo
    MY hatch, and if the pics are accurate, a very good looking one too. Cheers Bennie
  17. el_freddo
    I wouldn’t do it. You’ll need to “massage” the chassis rails to get it to fit. The dissy needs to have one of the moutning tans shaved off from memory. Someone will know. Keep the EA81 or go an EJ. Cheers Bennie
  18. el_freddo
    The EA82 5spd will handle the EJ22 power just fine so long as you’re not trying to turn massively oversized wheels. Blasphemy!! Should never happen. Many good Brumbys destroyed over here with a hammer trying to fit an EA82 into the EA81 engine bay. Cheers Bennie
  19. el_freddo
    Hehehe... tailshaft/prop shaft. Now I get what you were asking! What Numchux said Cheers Bennie
  20. el_freddo
    If it’s a front driveshaft for the front end and both are carb then yes. Front and rear shafts are not interchangeable. Cheers Bennie
  21. el_freddo
    Grab a front diff actuator solenoid set from a Mitsubishi Pajero/Shogun. You should be able to pick these up on eBay for about $22 from memory. OEM Mitsubishi part number MR430381 The subi unit looks like two of the solenoid on the left in this link: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mitsubishi-MR430381-Freewheel-Solenoid/dp/B0773WB58D#immersive-view_1574667952144 Might need two of these to replace the two factory Subi units. Cheers Bennie
  22. el_freddo
    These are the items that have some wires and vacuum hoses going to/from them. There’s two of them mounted side by side, black cylindrical looking things. The solenoids rarely fail. Repair the wiring and vac lines and the 4wd system *should* begin to wor again. Take some pics of the rear of the driver’s strut tower andpost them here. Cheers Bennie
  23. el_freddo
    Partsouq is my go to. You could also try calling Andy in the parts department of Dom’s motors in Griffith. Have you VIN ready to go. If he asks, Bennie sent you his way and said he’d help you out with a quote Cheers Bennie
  24. el_freddo
    GD will say scrap the EA platform for daily duties or start stock piling spare parts that are or will be NLA. Just saying! Cheers Bennie
  25. el_freddo
    You could rig up a cable to the actuator arm on the RHS of the gearbox, near the rear end. Best thing to do would just repair the damaged wiring and replace thechewed vacuum hoses. Much easier than rigging up a new system that may or may not work. Cheers Bennie
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