el_freddo

Normal operating temp where the thermostat is not fully open, so it’s monitoring the temp as such: Thermo fan kick-in/ON temp: Looking at your pic in comparison, it’s right on the same mark for thermo fan ON. I haven’t looked to see at what point on the gauge that the fans turn off. And don’t worry about my oil pressure, I need to put the sender unit on and hook it up as this is a relatively fresh dashboard conversion in my Brumby. Cheers Bennie

And RIP the EJ series! Cheers Bennie

I did something similar for 18months until I was forced to swap inlet manifolds due to a cracked thermostat base. It used to need a shot of fuel down the carb and a good, strong battery to get it started (lots of cranking and hope!) After swapping the intake manifold to an auto choke unit it started and ran ace every time! Then it was EJ’d and I’ve never looked back since. So much better!! Cheers Bennie

That’s a normal level of operating temp - it’s the point where your fans kick in. My brumby does the same, and with the mid 30*C weather we’re having already atm, it’s there all the time when sitting in traffic, once moving it usually drops back down. I’ll grab a couple of pics over the next few days to show normal running temp and thermo fan kick in point. Cheers Bennie

You won’t fit a LHD cable to a RHD subi. What you have there is a DL L series or Leone wagon. They’re like the black sheep of the Subaru family in a few ways, are parts interpretation books quite often mix them up with the MY and the Liberty models. With the pressure plate yours will be the larger one for the 4wd gearbox. The 2wd gearbox uses a smaller clutch pressure plate and disc - at least that’s what I found with the series 1 fwd sedans, I’m not 100% sure they kept this setup in the serie 2 fwd L’s. Cheers Bennie

It could be sensor or it could be a break in the wiring from the sensor to the main loom, you’ll need to check this out and determine which one it is. Cheers Bennie

If that was a historical code I’d be clearing that ASAP. The crank angle sensor could cause a cut out issue, I’ve not know them to create a hesitation, just loss of all power/rpm until the engine stalls. The crank angle sensor could be the issue, while rare, it could be a good avenue to look into. Go second hand. Cheers Bennie

I was going to say new fuel pump required, same line as naru2 is on with the fuel pressure. Cheers Bennie

Thins issue with the yoke breaking should have been diagnosed and sorted well before it was allowed to let go. There would have been loads of signs of this issue - noises, oscillating vibrations... Best of luck fixing the issue. Cheers Bennie

Or a dirty AFM.

Dying fuel pump? Bad spark plug could do it maybe. Does your check engine light illuminate when the engine isn’t running but the ignition is ON? How many km on it? Cheers Bennie

My take on the TOD. Air or lack of oil pressure in the HLA’s allowing the piston/knob (part that the cam follower sits on) to bottom out internally in the HLA. This eventually wears out the base of the HLA where this piston/knob piece sits, allowing oil to pass freely out to the open space of the engine’s internal area, thus not maintaining pressure or keeping the HLAs pumped up and doing their thing. Best solution to this is an EJ. Worked for me. My EJ has a quieter “TOD” when the oil level is at the low mark Cheers Bennie

I’m with DaveT on this - it’s an issue with the auto choke. Cheers Bennie

Sick looking hatch! I’d have one if they were available over here. Same for the L series RXII coupe! Cheers Bennie

Stick with anything EA81 and it’ll fit. As for junkyard item vs chain store vs quality radiator builder, I’d go the builder if possible. You might be surprised with the cost they could build a radiator for. They usually need your old one as a template if the vehicle is not staying with them. Cheers Bennie

They were developed by some members from the board from memory. It was a very interesting process! I don’t know if any are available these days though. Someone will know the dude’s contact details. Cheers Bennie

Put an EJ engine in with the EJ gearbox and you’ll have some of the usual fitment mods to do as required when doing the L series 5 speed. Some required mods will be more involved than others compared to the usual L series 5spd conversion. And I highly doubt you’ll find a dual range EJ box at a parts yard in the states. All the best with whatever you decide. Cheers Bennie

Make sure the valves aren’t bent. If it’s running you should be all good though. Cheers Bennie

International shipping from Oz is the killer bit. Cheers Bennie

@oczuk32 - correct. Chrome strip (plastic) is separate to windscreen rubber. Cheers Bennie

Probably not the tensioner if it goes quiet then. I’ll have to watch the video tomorrow and get back to you, I’m sure someone will have an answer for you. Cheers Bennie

That sounds like a dead cam belt tensioner. Removed LHS cam cover and check if the tensioner is bouncing. There are plenty of YouTube videos about this. If you can’t see it, it doesn’t mean it’s good, use the above link to the stethoscope and use this to properly diagnose the issue. We had one go bad on our EJ251 and it looked fine while running but the stethoscope pinned the noise with the tensioner. Swapped for OEM and no issues since Cheers Bennie

Yeah they’ve been on the market for a while now, probably a bit over a year. I’ve toyed with the idea of getting one for the shelf - waiting for the day my beloved ute gets a respray after all the dents are pulled out. I believe they ship international Cheers Bennie

Which then equates to about $4.11 US. So we’re better off by a bit of a margin. Who would’ve thought?? (That is provided 91 is their highest rated fuel for domestic use) Cheers Bennie

@sirtokesalot I reckon the lack of replies means your on new ground with this one. I hope leaving it means it’s all good long term for you. Cheers Bennie