el_freddo

The only wiring diagram you really need is the ECU pinout. The main power relay diagram can be useful to actually (for your first cut down), but really the big yellow wire is power and the little yellow with a stripe (from memory but can’t remember the strep colour). The large black trace red wire is fuel pump power wire. Cheers Bennie

21 = fuel pump relay. 22 doesn’t look familiar. 8 = igniter. 11 will be clutch and brake switches for cruise control The others I don’t know. The best way to do it is to unwrap the wiring, then trace all wiring from the ECU and tape these wires together as you fish them out from any unwanted wires. Once you’ve got all of these wires taped, find where any tee off to other things and what they’re for - eg: fuel pump relay or sensors on engine. Anything you don’t need (once correctly identified!), cut and remove from the loom. You should end up with: - ignition power - permanent power - backup power - starter wire (for ECU to richen the mixture for cold starts, references the start wire to the starter motor) - fuel pump wire - temp and oil light wires (use the EA wiring for this). - vehicle speed sensor wiring It’s best to have the wiring diagram to get your head around it. The Haynes manual has a good diagram of the ECU pinout with wire colours that’s generally easier to read than the FSM wiring diagrams. Put a fuse panel between those power wires including the starter reference wire and the EA loom. You will only need the vehicle speed sensor wire to tap into your factory L series loom. If MY another vehicle speed sensor source needs to be made. Cheers Bennie

It’s been suggested that the wobble feeling from the front left is a driveshaft. While the box is out I’ll swap the driveshafts over and see if the issue moves with it. Gearbox looks really good. The old one had a dead bearing in the upper shaft between 4th and 5th. I’ll throw some new front diff bearings in while the box is apart. I can’t see any damage to the diff bearings or anything abnormal. They do look well worn though, no noises at all in the <30km I’ve driven with this gearbox in the car. Cheers Bennie

Ouch. Never throw anything away until a week after the job is done. Then you’ll need something the week later Murphy’s Law. I believe there is only two types of crank and cam pulleys, but I could be wrong. Best bet is to find the same model and year build as your subi in the parts yard, then pilfer the crank sprocket and camwheel. Cheers Bennie

That should be on them if they put the PS fluid in... but then again, I wouldn’t want them to be touching my vehicle if they’re pulling stunts like that. Cheers Bennie

Diff stubs, as in the diff stub axles? They’re held in with clips internally so there’s no chance they’ll move. This liberty/legacy has the gearbox with the diff stub axles, it’s one of the last models before they went to the male driveshaft setup. Cheers Bennie

Sounds like a money grab to me. I’ve never heard of this happening. But then again, I’ve only ever heard of brake lines being flushed with fresh brake fluid until it comes out the other end clean. I’d also look up symptoms of gelled brake fluid and compare that info to what you’re experiencing. All the best with it. Cheers Bennie

A windscreen place over here had no issues getting a new windscreen and windscreen rubber for my brumby three months ago I think you can also find them on eBay.com.au Cheers Bennie

Correct. I should’ve said I meant under boost conditions. That’s the ECU’s job. Non tunable so you’re stuck with the factory tune unless you go aftermarket management. Our task is to ensure all sensors are working correctly so the ECU can do its thing correctly. Cheers Bennie

The patient: 1999/2000 RX Liberty wagon (EJ251) 5spd manual. Issue: swapped in second hand gearbox (pick a part special!) only to find the vehicle now has a wobble like feeling from the front left when under acceleration, becomes worse with heavier acceleration. All other times the vehicle generally feels unsettled. Both of these issues were not present with the last gearbox. The other issue is that I have that totally awesome “catch-let go-catch-let” go feeling or experience when turning tight such as when performing a U turn - classic symptoms of a dead centre diff.Questions: 1) can a stuffed centre diff create the issue with the front end that I’m experiencing?2) can the viscous gel stuff leak from the viscous LSD housing, and if so, what does it look like? Question 2 was asked because after stripping down the old box that was replaced, I’ve found a ball of what looks like silicone near the front diff area, and in between the drive and output of the centre diff is the same sort of material. It does seem like silicone but it’s just odd. This gearbox has presumably done over 400k km now - if it hasnt been changed at some point. It was swapped because of a bearing noise and it was slipping out of gear (possibly due to shot pitch stopper rod and gearboxs mount).Upon rotating the centre diff it seems the noise is in the rear bearing. This centre diff is good so itll end up in the wagon either way - unless that grey material is the viscous gel stuff. The plan is to build one good box from the two. I’ll be replacing the front diff bearings, all seals and most likely use the centre diff bearings from the replacement box as there’s zero noise from this box, other than the noise when performing a U turn. Cheers Bennie

My sister’s liberty did a similar sort of thing in the driveway when idling. The issue for us was the IACV, I’d fiddled with it and caused an issue. Our fix was to reset the computer. No problems for the rest of today. Got any codes? Cheers Bennie

Link didn’t load for me, but the answer is no, justy parts will not fit your L series. Cheers Bennie

L series 4wd sedan (rare!) or wagon will be a direct replacement. Put your swing arms on for the swaybar and rear discs. The L series 2wd will fit but needs the front diff mount welded on. Cheers Bennie

Welcome Mike! Seems like you’re pretty sorted Cheers Bennie

Im looking forward to hearing that it’s successfuly running and is returned to the happy owner without further issue. Cheers Bennie

Mine is the same! New clips would be a good idea. Cheers Bennie

You shouldn’t. It’s there to only indicate you’re on boost. If you want accuracy get an aftermarket boost gauge that actually plugs into the intake manifold Cheers Bennie

I used an external efi fuel pump. Over here the VN commodore 5L V8 unit does the job easy. I’m sure stateside has something very similar. I enlarged my fuel line with the use of a supply line from another L series - the MPFI vehicle’s already have a larger return line, so the carb supply line fits the bill well as a return line. Most getaway without doing this though. Cheers Bennie

You’ll either find valves that “sit” lower than the rest (bent) or you’ll find nothing. I reckon two teeth out wouldn’t do anything nasty physically. But for engine operation it might just be enough to upset the apple cart. I can understand why you won’t sleep well tonight, but I reckon you’ll be fine. Cheers Bennie

Keep your current trans if you want the dual range 4wd. If it’s on road traction you’re after and not 4wd capability, then go the AWD gearbox. Read up on the EJ conversion document that’s floating around here. Really any EJ engine will do the trick. Pick one that does NOT have factory security where the ECU talks to the key fob (for the want of a better description). This will make the wiring cut down so much easier to do. You’ll love the EJ! Cheers Bennie

I see you’re in Bendigo. We should catch up and talk shop. You can check out Ruby Scoo too - once I get her back from my folks who are dailying it while they get a new vehicle. They’re “loving” it You don’t need the wrx box, it’s just as strong as every other box out there in the EJ series (except the 6 speed). Get the SG Foz box from a 2L - a good start to build on. Cheers Bennie

And any OEM L series parts are basically NLA - it’s believed that the tsunami that took out the Fukushima nuclear power plant also took out the warehouse that had all the MY and L series parts. A guy in our car club got a new facia for his Vortex, ex Japan. After the tsunami he’s had zero success in getting other trim pieces that were listed as available pre tsunami. I’ve also not come across this issue and our Aussie sun is pretty harsh on car components. Cheers Bennie

And for melting pistons. Hence why the rich mixture - helps cool the piston. Cheers Bennie

Please post in the correct forum. Yes your Subaru is a ‘90 model, but it’s an L series that came from factory with the EA82 engine. Not the EJ series engine that this forum is about. Cheers Bennie

Simply put, no. But if you could work out how to fit floating front hubs that are manually engaged, then yes. But you’ll always be powering the front diff. Once you’ve done the front end, you’ll need to stiffen up the rear end to make it go the distance and last for a long time. Cheers Bennie