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AUDM subaru oil filter part no: 15208AA100 - made in Japan. Small unit. Cheers Bennie

If your turbo is leaking oil, you’ll never pass emissions. It’d be worth pulling the turbo and inspecting it to ensure there’s no oil seeping past the seals. Cheers Bennie

Thanks Chux, I can see how to tap oil and coolant from the back of the NA head. I’ll look into this further. I know we have better options, that’s why I have a Gen1 RS turbo. The EJ22 turbo build is being built to fit into a space that I don’t want to modify - and I’m not for all our power, just a bit of fun. I’ll leave that there, I’ll move on and drop any further inquiries in this thread. Cheers Bennie

The O2 sensor will be a 22mm hex head from memory. Any spanner, ring would be best, that can fit in where you need to get to will do the job. I would try a new O2 sensor, this can mess with the fuel mixture a lot. I would also have the injectors cleaned and flow tested, you don’t want them running lean or have them throwing too much fuel into the engine. All the best with it! Cheers Bennie

And keep the stock drivetrain o the shelf if you have the means to store it. Cheers Bennie

For what I want to do they’ll fit my needs. Plus there will be factory data on the emissions side of things that’ll help with my engineering requirements. The turbo oil and coolant feeds on the back of the head would be a bonus too - makes things a pot load easier to plumb things in! Cheers Bennie

I’d love a set of the EJ22t heads and an ECU if I could source one - but postage over the puddle to here would be a killer I have some EJ20 Na heads here but I’m unsure of their condition. It wouldn’t be hard to get another set. But again, the postage stateside would be more killer than from there to here. Sounds like a cool build! Cheers Bennie

Why did all your pictures die? Engine build sounds good. Cheers Bennie

It’s not the setup, it’s the welding! In Victoria where I am, if the welding is done by a certified welder it will walk through engineering - if that’s a point of concern. My engineer said he’s ok with all the planned welding I’ve got in store for a project. I’ll rack it together, certified welder will finish the job and provide evidence of their work for the engineer. But... if you can make it look factory from the get-go, no one will know any different, unless if fails in a crash and is found to be part of, or the entire roots cause of the crash. Then you’re stuffed. And I see photobucket is now blurring all their images unless you have a subscription. Good on them, dickheads. Cheers Bennie

Engine mounts are the same. Use the manual gearbox crossmember from memory. I think you need the manual tail shaft too. If you’ve got the two vehicles the physical swap will be easy. Going carb to MPFI is either an entire loom swap from your current subi into the new one (basically you’re doing a reshell), or you pull the wiring from your current subi and cut it down to just the MPFI wiring to run the engine - then put this into the recipient vehicle. The wiring will be where the work is unless the replacement/recipient subi is also MPFI. Move been there done that with carb to MPFI. With the amount of work done I could’ve done an EJ conversion in the wiring department... Cheers Bennie

My question is: WHY?! The 5spd box is superior in just about every way to the 4speed box. You’ll have to customise the tail shaft or see if the one piece unit fits. If your L series is carb, the driveshafts will fit no worries. You’ll have to work out the gearbox mounts. Really though it’s a waste of time. Put a 5 speed in. If it’s the dual range you’re after, wait for/buy a dual range 5speed - avoid the turbo gearbox as it’s got a poor low range reduction compared to the NA boxes. Cheers Bennie

Hey Ash, With the EJ18 you’ll be fine with that exedy clutch. I don’t think it’s super common to do the cases swap on the gearbox. Search it on Ausubaru.com.auninmy build thread of Ruby Scoo It’s prettt much - get Gen1 AWD box, split it for the case, bin the rest. Split EA82 box - carefully! That rear section is not fun at all. Take note of how it comes apart so you can put it all back together. Same for the gear selector forks - there’s some tricky decent ball work in there to get it all out and back in again. Cheers Bennie

You need to contact Subarino Auto Electrics - based in Perth, he’ll look after you in the adaptor plate and flywheel mods department (DIY flywheel mod but has a neat template to follow). As for the clutch pressure plate, I’ve heard of people beefing up the stock unit at a reputable clutch shop. Any decent shop should be able to complete that work. Personally I’m running the stock EJ flywheel and clutch setup. To do this you need to “shove” the EA gearbox internals into the EJ phase 1 gearbox front cases. What you’re worried about isn’t anything huge. I’m sure many ppl run with the factory EA82 pressure plate without an issue. It is best to have the clutch as the weak point and not the gearbox, just learn how to drive it so you avoid slippage. Cheers Bennie

The engine sensor should only have one plug/tab. The sensor is grounded through the intake manifold and is basically a thermal resistor, the single wire is what goes to the gauge to make it do its thing. The radiator fan switch is also a single plug unit. It too is grounded but through the radiator. The other wire earths out the relay that triggers the thermo fan(s). If you have a two wire unit, it’s for an L series but will still work if you ground one wire - I’m not 100% sure if this is specific to one wire or either wire. If you’ve got this unit your radiator doesn’t need to be grounded. Cheers Bennie

http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/dnthone.htm @montermahanread it. Less there than what you’ve just posted above. Cheers Bennie

@GeneralDisorder - rough day mate? You’ve been like a heat seeking missle! Cheers Bennie

Same platform so they should be the same unless the lift is built into the centre bearing mount. Cheers Bennie

It MUST be the impreza unit, not the liberty/legacy auto unit? Cheers Bennie

ALso make sure your radiator is grounded with the little ground wire at the top of the radiator to the upper rad support panel. Engine temp gauge sensor is a 17mm hex head Cheers Bennie

You probably need a new sender unit. Cheers Bennie

He’s got a brumby style three door hatch - like Subarino’s hatchy. I didn’t know they made them through to ‘89! That’s awesome! @6 Star - you’ll definitely need a new exhaust once the 4wd system is in as the FWD unit will take the easier route to the rear end, typically straight down the trans tunnel. It’ll be a good project, been done before so not impossible! Cheers Bennie

@DaveT - got a link to that thread? Cheers Bennie

One way to find out, but I don’t see why not. I say go for it, it sounds like you don’t have anything to lose! Cheers Bennie

There are three bolts on the swing arm that can influence the camber and probably toe into a point. No one ever touches these in an alignment as the bolts are typically too hard to get to and the MYs and L series are listed as a fixed rear end... but if the swing arms have ever been removed then this alignment from delivery is lost. Even then it’s not ever good. I’ve seen a tech bulletin outlining the alignment of the rear end using these three bolts but I’ve never done it, nor can I find that bulletin now On a more extreme note, has the car ever been crashed? It could be bent ever so slightly making the car want to crab along the road. Cheers Bennie

CEL typically doesn’t come on due to a fuel issue. If you’ve got bad fuel the exu will pull timing. But if you’ve got an injector issue it could throw a CEL, this is why you need to check the codes - and you don’t need a scanner to do it either! Cheers Bennie