el_freddo

Surely you can get them online? Cheers Bennie

Geez, amazing before and after! I know the paint isn’t perfect but it’s a huge difference! You should start a thread in the member’s ride section Cheers Bennie

The bearing will be fine. They’re tough buggers! What you’ll find is that the stub axle is trying to go in on an angle rather than straight in. Cheers Bennie

Relays are round looking canisters above the driver’s feet. You’ll need to remove the kick panel to access them. Any damage to the wiring on that side of the vehicle, or wiring added in that general area? Have you tried swapping the globes from left to right? Cheers Bennie

Typically if the dimmer switch is not connected your illumination lights won’t work. Same if you’ve blown a couple of globes and are not on the full illumination setting. From memory the series one is a turn dial illumination thing “inside” the dial switch for the headlights on the dashboard. Cheers Bennie

Remove the cotter pin and take the stub axle off the CV shaft. Go to a bench or a big solid block of wood and hit the axle from behind - with another’s block of wood between the stub axle and the BFH. Or use the threads of the shaft to act like a hydraulic press to pull the stub axle through the hub. You’ll need a way to transmit the force from the nut to the hub - something to go between theses that you can make larger as you run out of thread on the stub axle. Personally, I remove the CV shaft and do the bearings with the swing axle on the vehicle. Cheers Bennie

That shouldn’t have been an issue. Once the negative cable is removed from the battery, it can touch the positive etc and there won’t be any flying sparks or burning to the wiring. Something else is at play here I reckon - unless you’ve got a second battery hooked up or some sort of capacitor for a subwoofer etc. if either of those were not disconnected or discharged, then you’d have sparks and burning/melting wire conduit. All the best in sorting out the issue! Cheers Bennie

AUDM subaru oil filter part no: 15208AA100 - made in Japan. Small unit. Cheers Bennie

If your turbo is leaking oil, you’ll never pass emissions. It’d be worth pulling the turbo and inspecting it to ensure there’s no oil seeping past the seals. Cheers Bennie

Thanks Chux, I can see how to tap oil and coolant from the back of the NA head. I’ll look into this further. I know we have better options, that’s why I have a Gen1 RS turbo. The EJ22 turbo build is being built to fit into a space that I don’t want to modify - and I’m not for all our power, just a bit of fun. I’ll leave that there, I’ll move on and drop any further inquiries in this thread. Cheers Bennie

The O2 sensor will be a 22mm hex head from memory. Any spanner, ring would be best, that can fit in where you need to get to will do the job. I would try a new O2 sensor, this can mess with the fuel mixture a lot. I would also have the injectors cleaned and flow tested, you don’t want them running lean or have them throwing too much fuel into the engine. All the best with it! Cheers Bennie

And keep the stock drivetrain o the shelf if you have the means to store it. Cheers Bennie

For what I want to do they’ll fit my needs. Plus there will be factory data on the emissions side of things that’ll help with my engineering requirements. The turbo oil and coolant feeds on the back of the head would be a bonus too - makes things a pot load easier to plumb things in! Cheers Bennie

I’d love a set of the EJ22t heads and an ECU if I could source one - but postage over the puddle to here would be a killer I have some EJ20 Na heads here but I’m unsure of their condition. It wouldn’t be hard to get another set. But again, the postage stateside would be more killer than from there to here. Sounds like a cool build! Cheers Bennie

Why did all your pictures die? Engine build sounds good. Cheers Bennie

It’s not the setup, it’s the welding! In Victoria where I am, if the welding is done by a certified welder it will walk through engineering - if that’s a point of concern. My engineer said he’s ok with all the planned welding I’ve got in store for a project. I’ll rack it together, certified welder will finish the job and provide evidence of their work for the engineer. But... if you can make it look factory from the get-go, no one will know any different, unless if fails in a crash and is found to be part of, or the entire roots cause of the crash. Then you’re stuffed. And I see photobucket is now blurring all their images unless you have a subscription. Good on them, dickheads. Cheers Bennie

Engine mounts are the same. Use the manual gearbox crossmember from memory. I think you need the manual tail shaft too. If you’ve got the two vehicles the physical swap will be easy. Going carb to MPFI is either an entire loom swap from your current subi into the new one (basically you’re doing a reshell), or you pull the wiring from your current subi and cut it down to just the MPFI wiring to run the engine - then put this into the recipient vehicle. The wiring will be where the work is unless the replacement/recipient subi is also MPFI. Move been there done that with carb to MPFI. With the amount of work done I could’ve done an EJ conversion in the wiring department... Cheers Bennie

My question is: WHY?! The 5spd box is superior in just about every way to the 4speed box. You’ll have to customise the tail shaft or see if the one piece unit fits. If your L series is carb, the driveshafts will fit no worries. You’ll have to work out the gearbox mounts. Really though it’s a waste of time. Put a 5 speed in. If it’s the dual range you’re after, wait for/buy a dual range 5speed - avoid the turbo gearbox as it’s got a poor low range reduction compared to the NA boxes. Cheers Bennie

Hey Ash, With the EJ18 you’ll be fine with that exedy clutch. I don’t think it’s super common to do the cases swap on the gearbox. Search it on Ausubaru.com.auninmy build thread of Ruby Scoo It’s prettt much - get Gen1 AWD box, split it for the case, bin the rest. Split EA82 box - carefully! That rear section is not fun at all. Take note of how it comes apart so you can put it all back together. Same for the gear selector forks - there’s some tricky decent ball work in there to get it all out and back in again. Cheers Bennie

You need to contact Subarino Auto Electrics - based in Perth, he’ll look after you in the adaptor plate and flywheel mods department (DIY flywheel mod but has a neat template to follow). As for the clutch pressure plate, I’ve heard of people beefing up the stock unit at a reputable clutch shop. Any decent shop should be able to complete that work. Personally I’m running the stock EJ flywheel and clutch setup. To do this you need to “shove” the EA gearbox internals into the EJ phase 1 gearbox front cases. What you’re worried about isn’t anything huge. I’m sure many ppl run with the factory EA82 pressure plate without an issue. It is best to have the clutch as the weak point and not the gearbox, just learn how to drive it so you avoid slippage. Cheers Bennie

The engine sensor should only have one plug/tab. The sensor is grounded through the intake manifold and is basically a thermal resistor, the single wire is what goes to the gauge to make it do its thing. The radiator fan switch is also a single plug unit. It too is grounded but through the radiator. The other wire earths out the relay that triggers the thermo fan(s). If you have a two wire unit, it’s for an L series but will still work if you ground one wire - I’m not 100% sure if this is specific to one wire or either wire. If you’ve got this unit your radiator doesn’t need to be grounded. Cheers Bennie

http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/dnthone.htm @montermahanread it. Less there than what you’ve just posted above. Cheers Bennie

@GeneralDisorder - rough day mate? You’ve been like a heat seeking missle! Cheers Bennie

Same platform so they should be the same unless the lift is built into the centre bearing mount. Cheers Bennie

It MUST be the impreza unit, not the liberty/legacy auto unit? Cheers Bennie