el_freddo

My question is what brand of front wheel bearings did you use? And has the inner seal been compromised/have you done any 4wdn involving deep mud or water crossings? All of these situations can kill the front bearings if a seal is toast or the hubs are hot when they hit cold water or in exteme cases, mud slurry is sucked into the bearings. Cheers Bennie

The curved spokes are the issue as FerGloyal has stated. They rub on the caliper. What you want is the set with spokes that have a much sharper bend in them with a flatter “face” of the spokes to hub surface. These clear the L series calipers. And don’t be fooled if they fit and you have worn brake pads. They can fit and work until you put fresh pads on, then the rim sits on the caliper or vice versa depending on your view of the matter Cheers Bennie

I thought you were going to say an EJ under the bonnet! Every L series owner definitely needs one! Cheers Bennie

It doesn’t look right. And it’s missing a plate in there so you’ve got a weak point at the bottom side of that lift block. Mine is a bit different, but the same principal applies - mine uses the standard plate in its original position, where as yours has it on a tower, giving it more leverage on the bolts. Add a second stock bracing plate where the K frame meets the lift block and I reckon you’ll strengthen this section up good and proper. Cheers Bennie

Don’t forget no filler neck on the BRZ radiator Cheers Bennie

Jono, you’ve pretty much nailed all the ways to do this from what I’ve tried/done myself. I’m currently running with a set of home made adaptors and use a cut down of the two EJ radiator hoses and one EA hose to make the setup work. It will be very similar to the EA81 setup - but I’m also running a lift so I have a bit more length to play with. I like your idea of turning that adaptor down. That’d be a neat solution. A custom pipe would be awesome but I don’t know of anyone who does this. Cheers Bennie

Awesome that you got her running again. There’s a few things you can do here: - find the timing marks and mark them with chalk or a bright coloured texta. - check that the cam belt timing is correct and not several teeth out - make sure you’re checking the timing using spark plug #1 - dizzy could be a tooth out if someon has messed around with it/over advanced - also a good idea to replace the coil. Dead coils kill ignition modules. From my experience the coil is cheaper than the ignition module. Cheers Bennie

G’day Hoppy, Welcome to the forum. To have your query answered, it’s best to post in the EJ to present subforum. This will get your post the most exposure to the crew who might know what you’re looking for. Cheers Bennie

Yes! Another Aussie lifted L I’m looking forward to your build thread/story. Cheers Bennie

Really? A whole day an not one reply in the EJ forum?? Poor form ppls! Free bump! Cheers Bennie

You don’t have to split the brake line. Carefully cut the little retainer bracket, then bend the two sections back to allow the brake line to come free once the clip is removed (remove clip before cutting). Do the same on the new struts The brake line will still be retained by the clip in the bracket. Cheers Bennie

http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/dnthone.htm If you want more information I reckon General Disorder sums it up here quite well: Cheers Bennie

If it’s not knocking don’t “inspect” the bearings. Piston heads come out by pulling the gudgeon pins out through the side access hole. This leaves the conrod on the crank and the bottom end intact. I had this same thing on an EA82 ages ago, but no smoke when usually driving or coasting. But throttling on after coasting down a decent hill created a serious smoke screen. The engine was pulled down years after it was swapped out - we found failed ring landings and cracked rings on at least one cylinder. Cheers Bennie

And 3) swap your heads onto the EJ22. Cheers Bennie

Yeah fair call. I just did the conversion to km to put that distance into perspective - 488,000km! At that distance travelled, unless the gearbox was resealed and had its oil changed when it should’ve been, it’s bound to have leaking seals and worn bearings, not just the input shaft bearing. Still, sounds like a good one to pull apart to learn from if you can afford it. Cheers Bennie

I reckon for $50 it’s a good deal. Pull the box apart and replace the input shaft bearing and the oil seal. If the gearbox is toast it’s still good learning that’s not expensive (in my book anyway). The spigot bearing is the one that lives in the centre of the flywheel with the gearbox input shaft in it. If the spigot bearing was none existent then the input not bearing could have worn out due to the little bit of play it would be allowed to have. In the single range gearboxes this wouldn’t be so common as the input shaft is very long, going from the clutch all the way to the rear side of the front half cases. On the dual range boxes that we have, the input shaft is only a few inches long and relies on the spigot bearing and another roller bearing in the low range setup to hold the shaft for the main input bearing to run true. $50 is a good deal I reckon. Your call. Cheers Bennie

WEight has nothing to do with engine compression testing. You need a compression gauge for sure. Cheers Bennie

You’ll see the same cross hatching in your EJ engine. Probably best to post in the EJ to present models subforum for best results with answers. Most will probably tell you to get a good second hand unit. But they’re easy enough to work on. Provided you haven’t broken any rings or ring landings, the bores should be fine. You could also try replacing the PCV valve so see if that changes the oil burning. Also do a compression check, why repalce rings etc if it’s just valve stem seals? This could be done without removing the heads with the right tools too. Cheers Bennie

Voltage will only appear if you’re applying some sort of voltage to the system as you test it. I’m unsure, but I would imagine that measuring the resistance would allow you to determine whether the VSS circuit is working properly. Cheers Bennie

Would something like this do the job? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Forged-Aluminum-Coilover-Kit-for-Honda-Civic-88-00-available-Coilover-Suspension/183420306878 Cheers Bennie

Is the cup holder not a standard feature? Over here I’m 99% sure this was standard across the AUDM range. Our Gen3 Liberty(Legacy)/Outback’s that are dual range only have one cup holder in the dashboard. The second one is removed for the dual range lever. Even the rear seats gets two fold out cup holders in the back of the console. That area rear of the front wheels is always an area to open up and clean out with new to you 2nd hand vehicles for the exact reason you’ve shown above! Cheers Bennie

I’ll dig up the pics of the EJ gearbox crossmembers that I’ve got. You may have already seen them though. I like the ones that are bent to shape rather than having a break with a welded in section. There’s one xmem that has a section of half pipe welded in to clear the sway bar, that’s the one I’m not keen on. I like your idea of the centre piece of the cross member to pass under the sway bar before bending upwards for the rear mount. As for gear selector rear mount, you could make up a plate that covers the trans hole while providing a bent section to drop into the trans tunnel for the mount to bolt to. This plate can have a shaped hole to fit the EJ gear lever boot, so it provides two uses. A rubber “gasket” under this plate would be needed to create a seal Cheers Bennie

My EJ22E has the charcoal canister in the engine bay in roughly the same place that the old EA82 one sat. Maybe the later models have the canister in the rear, but clearly not all models do... I should’ve mentioned that my L series was EJ swapped ten years ago, hence why I made the initial comment above Cheers Bennie

I’ve always filled my L series to the brim. Not the same setup as the EJ models but still has the charcoal canister in the engine bay all the same. No issues in ten plus years. If I go with the single click and stop filling the fuel gauge isn’t on full. If doing this is it is best to be doing a bit of a drive before stopping the vehicle for the night/a period of time Cheers Bennie

Investigate the check engine light, you may genuinely have a dodgy sensor. If the ECU runs the engine and hasn’t fried, it will continue like this. With the old ECU, find a new replacement resistor and place that in. Then you can swap the ECUs to see if it works. Mans your check engine light should illuminate with the ignition ON, engine OFF. Cheers Bennie