el_freddo

AE, are you sleeping at night? I wouldn’t be due to pure anticipation! Cheers Bennie

Are you sure? Did you physically check the back of the cam wheel and compare the tabs to ensure they’re the same? The crank pulley can be done by eye without removing the cam belt or pulley. It’s got to be something simple that’s being overlooked like the cam wheel. Cheers Bennie

https://dynamco.com.au/product/446002-autowatch-alarm/ I’ll be installing one of these in the near future. Main problem with any decent alarm system is that they’re typically costly! Plenty of add ons depending on your needs. Cheers Bennie

That’s a bugger about the flywheel bolts! Sounds like you got on it at just the right time - when those bolts let go all kinds of hell breaks out! A mate of mine who’s into track racing has a small section of pipe that’s hammered around the outside of all the bolts and tack welded. This ensures the bolts can’t ever move. If you need to remove these bolts, simply grind off the tack welds and off you go. When’s the next race occurring? Cheers Bennie

I’d take that on in a heart beat if it were close enough to me over here! We know of only three in Australia! Cheers Bennie

Nice one Akg! I’ll be looking forward to some pics of the wagon. The 5 stud pattern has little to do with the lift other than the strut length in the front end. About ten years ago it was quite a common conversion on lifted L’s over here in Oz when crossbred performance were building bolt on kits for the 5 stud and bigger brake swap. Sounds like it’ll be a sweet setup once you’re done. Will you go for an EJ22 swap too? Cheers Bennie

If you wanted to keep the sedan you could replace the rear suspension on that corner. Then it’ll just be cosmetic from there. Cheers Bennie

That sucks mate! Just about everything will be interchangable between the two vehicles, other than rear panels etc. With the rear struts I think there is a difference with these but I think it’s the top hat and spring rate. You’ll love the wagon! Glad you were ok. Not fun, but everyone is safe, that’s the main thing. Cheers Bennie

I’d say it’s the bearing between 4th and 5th on the upper shaft. Probably caused by low oil. It’d be cool to pull the box and get some pics of it’s internals. Cheers Bennie

MY hatch, and if the pics are accurate, a very good looking one too. Cheers Bennie

I wouldn’t do it. You’ll need to “massage” the chassis rails to get it to fit. The dissy needs to have one of the moutning tans shaved off from memory. Someone will know. Keep the EA81 or go an EJ. Cheers Bennie

The EA82 5spd will handle the EJ22 power just fine so long as you’re not trying to turn massively oversized wheels. Blasphemy!! Should never happen. Many good Brumbys destroyed over here with a hammer trying to fit an EA82 into the EA81 engine bay. Cheers Bennie

Hehehe... tailshaft/prop shaft. Now I get what you were asking! What Numchux said Cheers Bennie

If it’s a front driveshaft for the front end and both are carb then yes. Front and rear shafts are not interchangeable. Cheers Bennie

Grab a front diff actuator solenoid set from a Mitsubishi Pajero/Shogun. You should be able to pick these up on eBay for about $22 from memory. OEM Mitsubishi part number MR430381 The subi unit looks like two of the solenoid on the left in this link: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Mitsubishi-MR430381-Freewheel-Solenoid/dp/B0773WB58D#immersive-view_1574667952144 Might need two of these to replace the two factory Subi units. Cheers Bennie

These are the items that have some wires and vacuum hoses going to/from them. There’s two of them mounted side by side, black cylindrical looking things. The solenoids rarely fail. Repair the wiring and vac lines and the 4wd system *should* begin to wor again. Take some pics of the rear of the driver’s strut tower andpost them here. Cheers Bennie

Partsouq is my go to. You could also try calling Andy in the parts department of Dom’s motors in Griffith. Have you VIN ready to go. If he asks, Bennie sent you his way and said he’d help you out with a quote Cheers Bennie

GD will say scrap the EA platform for daily duties or start stock piling spare parts that are or will be NLA. Just saying! Cheers Bennie

You could rig up a cable to the actuator arm on the RHS of the gearbox, near the rear end. Best thing to do would just repair the damaged wiring and replace thechewed vacuum hoses. Much easier than rigging up a new system that may or may not work. Cheers Bennie

I need to get the parts yet! Tomorrow I’ll be near the L, then I can go from there on the postage. Cheers Bennie

Makes sense - I’d say more so for the time it takes to heat up the catalytic converter to allow the ecu to run with the O2 sensor in operation for emissions. Cheers Bennie

Heat shields are good for collecting grass seeds and stems to create a fire. Not good if you’re relying on your vehicle to get you out of a remote place you’re visiting... Cheers Bennie

The EA82 will only give you headaches finding parts unless you’re patient (and possibly lynhave deep pockets). As @wagons said, the EJ conversion can be done for about the same amount as a DIY engine rebuild, more if you pay someone to do the work for you. Pick a series of engine that you like and get a donor vehicle that has it fitted. The EJ22 is well tried and tested. I’ve had mine for ten years and counting. Done head gaskets once and cambelt twice (it’s due again now). I would like more from it but compared to the EA82 it’s night and day! Cheers Bennie

Use a magnetic tool retriever that fits down the tube to lift the remains of the dipstick out. If it’s full length that’s broken off you shouldn’t have any issues. If it’s only a part of it, you’ll probably have trouble getting it out. If this is the case it could be worth draining the oil and trying to fish the broken off section out through the drain plug. Cheers Bennie

Good luck finding a 3.9 ratio ring and pinion for this gearbox! The box is hard enough to find these days. Glad it was sorted in the end. Hopefully Shawn can take on your feedback about more communication. Cheers Bennie