el_freddo

You could try pulling the spark plugs, overfilling it a bit with oil and cranking it over for 10 seconds at a time until the oil light goes out. Once the oil light goes out you can drain off some of the oil and top up as necessary, whack the spark plugs back in and fire her up - watching the oil pressure light! Otherwise I’d recommend pulling the oil pump and putting a seal kit through it. Remove the crank pulley to remove the oil pump, otherwise you’ll crack you pump housing (and no hitting it with a hammer, small or big!). Cheers Bennie

Sorry, this isn’t a Honda forum! Seriously though, why? Do an Eaj swap instead - it’s been tried, tested and proven! Mind you, I have heard of someone putting a Peugeot diesel in an L series but that’s all the info I got. Cheers Bennie

That should be them. On ours they’re on the right, but that’s for our right hand drive setup. You should feel them click when you turn the lights on or switch between high and low beam. Cheers Bennie

I always thought with the EA82 efi systems, plugs had to be connected before the engine was started. Not start then plug in. If it won’t start or run when the plugs are connected then I’m stumped. (Time to EJ?? ) Cheers Bennie

EA MPFI and MOfI turbo are also 25 spline count on the diff stubs - same as the EJ. I always thought the EJ shafts were too long for the EA setup when running EJ hubs. I’ll have to check out that front wheel drive impreza option. We got those over here, if the shaft length is good, it might be worth looking into for what I want. Cheers Bennie

The difference will be in the shaft. And I thought you always had to build custom shafts for the EJ brakes up front on the L series. Cheers Bennie

How well did it run before the Welch plugs let go? And how long did the engine sit full of water? I reckon that water damage looks like normal wear. The engine may be high miles but if it worked fine before it stopped, I reckon it’ll go just fine with new HGs etc When I got mine it had sat for 6 months full of water. PO said “it just stopped suddenly one day” and they walked away from it. Then they finally sold it to me. Top of one cylinder had a couple of rust pits but other than that we’ve continued to run this engine. Now I have a detonation issue that has me wondering about the compression on that cylinder. I’ve been too lazy/busy to check so far. We also had the Welch plug holes tapped and a big flat hex headed plug put in. No leaks, and something would have to be seriously wrong for one of them to let go! Cheers Bennie

What brand of clutch cable did you get? It sounds like it’s stretched beyond being useful and it could possibly be chewing itself out from the inside. It would be worth pulling the cable out and check how hard it is to pull/push through the outer casing. You should be able to do this by hand. Cheers Bennie

Surely you can get them online? Cheers Bennie

Geez, amazing before and after! I know the paint isn’t perfect but it’s a huge difference! You should start a thread in the member’s ride section Cheers Bennie

The bearing will be fine. They’re tough buggers! What you’ll find is that the stub axle is trying to go in on an angle rather than straight in. Cheers Bennie

Relays are round looking canisters above the driver’s feet. You’ll need to remove the kick panel to access them. Any damage to the wiring on that side of the vehicle, or wiring added in that general area? Have you tried swapping the globes from left to right? Cheers Bennie

Typically if the dimmer switch is not connected your illumination lights won’t work. Same if you’ve blown a couple of globes and are not on the full illumination setting. From memory the series one is a turn dial illumination thing “inside” the dial switch for the headlights on the dashboard. Cheers Bennie

Remove the cotter pin and take the stub axle off the CV shaft. Go to a bench or a big solid block of wood and hit the axle from behind - with another’s block of wood between the stub axle and the BFH. Or use the threads of the shaft to act like a hydraulic press to pull the stub axle through the hub. You’ll need a way to transmit the force from the nut to the hub - something to go between theses that you can make larger as you run out of thread on the stub axle. Personally, I remove the CV shaft and do the bearings with the swing axle on the vehicle. Cheers Bennie

That shouldn’t have been an issue. Once the negative cable is removed from the battery, it can touch the positive etc and there won’t be any flying sparks or burning to the wiring. Something else is at play here I reckon - unless you’ve got a second battery hooked up or some sort of capacitor for a subwoofer etc. if either of those were not disconnected or discharged, then you’d have sparks and burning/melting wire conduit. All the best in sorting out the issue! Cheers Bennie

AUDM subaru oil filter part no: 15208AA100 - made in Japan. Small unit. Cheers Bennie

If your turbo is leaking oil, you’ll never pass emissions. It’d be worth pulling the turbo and inspecting it to ensure there’s no oil seeping past the seals. Cheers Bennie

Thanks Chux, I can see how to tap oil and coolant from the back of the NA head. I’ll look into this further. I know we have better options, that’s why I have a Gen1 RS turbo. The EJ22 turbo build is being built to fit into a space that I don’t want to modify - and I’m not for all our power, just a bit of fun. I’ll leave that there, I’ll move on and drop any further inquiries in this thread. Cheers Bennie

The O2 sensor will be a 22mm hex head from memory. Any spanner, ring would be best, that can fit in where you need to get to will do the job. I would try a new O2 sensor, this can mess with the fuel mixture a lot. I would also have the injectors cleaned and flow tested, you don’t want them running lean or have them throwing too much fuel into the engine. All the best with it! Cheers Bennie

And keep the stock drivetrain o the shelf if you have the means to store it. Cheers Bennie

For what I want to do they’ll fit my needs. Plus there will be factory data on the emissions side of things that’ll help with my engineering requirements. The turbo oil and coolant feeds on the back of the head would be a bonus too - makes things a pot load easier to plumb things in! Cheers Bennie

I’d love a set of the EJ22t heads and an ECU if I could source one - but postage over the puddle to here would be a killer I have some EJ20 Na heads here but I’m unsure of their condition. It wouldn’t be hard to get another set. But again, the postage stateside would be more killer than from there to here. Sounds like a cool build! Cheers Bennie

Why did all your pictures die? Engine build sounds good. Cheers Bennie

It’s not the setup, it’s the welding! In Victoria where I am, if the welding is done by a certified welder it will walk through engineering - if that’s a point of concern. My engineer said he’s ok with all the planned welding I’ve got in store for a project. I’ll rack it together, certified welder will finish the job and provide evidence of their work for the engineer. But... if you can make it look factory from the get-go, no one will know any different, unless if fails in a crash and is found to be part of, or the entire roots cause of the crash. Then you’re stuffed. And I see photobucket is now blurring all their images unless you have a subscription. Good on them, dickheads. Cheers Bennie

Engine mounts are the same. Use the manual gearbox crossmember from memory. I think you need the manual tail shaft too. If you’ve got the two vehicles the physical swap will be easy. Going carb to MPFI is either an entire loom swap from your current subi into the new one (basically you’re doing a reshell), or you pull the wiring from your current subi and cut it down to just the MPFI wiring to run the engine - then put this into the recipient vehicle. The wiring will be where the work is unless the replacement/recipient subi is also MPFI. Move been there done that with carb to MPFI. With the amount of work done I could’ve done an EJ conversion in the wiring department... Cheers Bennie