el_freddo

It makes the vehicle feel much sportier as you can effortlessly throw it into corners with PS vs the manual rack! MHO anyway. Has this actually been done though - fitting an EJ rack to an EA82 engine crossmember? I know it doesn’t work on the EA81’s. Cheers Bennie

There’s loads of info about this spread out across this forum. Do a google search with “site:www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum” at the end to bring up results from this forum. The EA82 should bolt up to the EA81. I’m betting the auto bellhousing is the same. It was the earlier engines that had the starter mounted above the gearbox that are an issue from what I understand. I’ve not swapped an EA81 auto for an EA82 manual but I’ve done the EA82 auto to manual without issues. You’ll need to source the manual EA81 flywheel. From memory you can use the EA82 clutch pressure plate once the EA81 flywheel step is machined to match the EA82’s step depth. I can’t remember what measurement it is exactly now but it’s here on the forum somewhere. Rupart is right about the difference with the diff stub axle spine count. This box runs the same as the EJs - larger diametre with 25 splines. Check to see if that turbo wagon is part time 4wd or AWD. You guys got some different combinations to us so that could potentially be an AWD box. Being a turbo manual gearbox, if it’s dual range it’ll have the poor 1.19:1 low range compared to the NA 1.59:1. Huge difference between the two if you need the low range! Two piece tail/prop shaft from the EA82 can be made to fit the EA81 body with a centre bearing mount added to the trans tunnel. If drilling holes or welding brackets to your EA81 body isn’t your thing you can have a one piece tailshaft made up too. It comes down to preference and dollars… Cheers Bennie

Check the hose between the remote reservoir and the pump. There could be cracks in it. This hose gets brittle over time so be gentle with it - give it a squeeze to see how flexible the hose is. Then try gently bending the hose, looking for cracks across the hose. If you’ve got cracks this is your issue with the PS system. Replace hose and see if the issue remains. Cheers Bennie

It’s the big purge to push us towards EVs - because everyone can shell out for a new EV tomorrow… Sad to hear about these parts drying up, collect while you can! Cheers Bennie

It’ll be interesting to hear what the straight cut gears have to say! You’ll know you’re in low range Cheers Bennie

It might be time then to download the FSM for both vehicles and pull out the ECU wiring diagrams to compare the wiring pin outs for each ECU, find any that are different and rectify if possible. And run all the sensors that are factory to the ECU you’re running. It would pay you well to also cross check the wiring for each sensor as there could be wiring changes at the plugs - namely for the O2 sensors off the top of my head as they’re a plug that can have a four plug wire but only three wires in use. If any of these are the wrong way around it will spell trouble. Cheers Bennie

I love these epic updates! Kudos doing the gearbox work out bush! Was it difficult to keep it clean from the dust? That black outback is definitely looking pretty cactus! Over here in Oz that would’ve been condemned a loooong time ago!! Cheers Bennie

The “secret” to engine swaps in Subarus if not going NA to turbo is to get the correct engine phase (1 or 2) to what you have and AVCS or not. Remove intake manifold from old engine, bolt onto new engine that’s the matching phase (if wrong intake won’t bolt on), ensure the crank and cam wheels match the gear on the old engine coming out of the vehicle. And you’re essentially done. Injectors could be too big or small depending on which way you go with the swap in terms of engine size, the ECU will adjust what it can with what’s there AFAIK. No need to go swapping wiring or ECUs. You could find there’s some subtle wiring differences in the looms between the two vehicles. Cheers Bennie

Which O2 sensors are you running? I’d say they need to be matched to what your engine management system was running before the swap. In my mind that would resolve these O2 sensor issues you’re experiencing. Cheers Bennie

This is an interesting issue and very frustrating that the thread was never updated with an end result. I’ve cut down three looms now. Two EJ22E looms and one EJ205 turbo loom with immobiliser. All looms work as they should. What I find interesting is that the wiring connectivity checks out and the OP begins questioning the wiring loom cut down. Yet when cutting down a loom you’re not cutting engine to ECU wires, just the ones from everything else you don’t need. No one confirms if their ECU with these issues have the earthed wire to tell the ECU it’s manual or no wire to tell the ECU it’s an auto. I’ve heard this doesn’t matter, who knows. The next question is if they’ve got a neutral switch hooked up, or what was done with that wiring. Without looking into this further these are my initial thoughts. Cheers Bennie

Well I guess you stuffed that up! New owner going to continue to use it or will it rust in peace while parked up at yours?? Cheers Bennie

Look into the relay mod for triggering the starter motor. It takes the load off the ignition switch when in the start position. Easily a car park job. Disconnect the battery and remove the positive cable from the starter motor before removing it from the bell housing Cheers Bennie

Clutch fork and the pivot point need to be changed if swapping from hydro to cable clutch or vice versa. Plus you need the clutch cable mount bracket on the gearbox, mods to the pedal box and a suitable hole in the firewall for the cable to pass through. Much easier to just maintain/replace components on the hydraulic setup as needed. And I’d argue that clutch cables require just as much maintenance as the hydraulic setup. Cheers Bennie

This didn’t sit right with me and I couldn’t pin why so I left it at the time. The EA82 intake manifold gasket is subjected to compression - from the coolant jacket that’s right beside the intake port that shares the same gasket. If your coolant mysteriously disappears I’d be looking at that gasket. It can leak a little bit and the engine runs fine. Keep an eye on it, last thing you want to do is cook the EA82… Cheers Bennie

I reckon you’re on the money about your model year and the same diametre return and vent lines. That’s plausible to me. Our Brumby/BRATs were in production until 1991/1992 and I’ve heard sales still occurring in 1994 but I can’t verify that. So our models ran a lot longer and they may have change the fuel lines to be the same setup as the L series. Cheers Bennie

To crack the crank pulley bolt with the engine out of the car you use one of the clutch pressure plate bolts with a plate that holds this bolt and one of the lower gearbox mount studs. No need to remove spark plugs and shove stuff into the cylinder! Each to their own. I’d prefer to look after my back than give it a workout like that. And getting under the vehicle there’s only exhaust bolts and engine mount bolts to deal with from memory. Anyway, I don’t deal with the EA82 any more. Not even good for a boat anchor in my book. EA81 or EJ for me. If you find it works for you and you’re keen to do it again next time it must work for you and that’s all that matters. The next time you do pull the EA82, make sure you put something else back in it’s place Cheers Bennie

No need to run a new line. Just ensure that what you swap up the front is also what you swap at the back of the cab under the tray area or for sedans/wagons etc, under the back seat. It could be worth removing the fuel tank filler cap and blowing some compressed air through the small return line to ensure there’s no crud blocking it or reducing the flow. Worst case scenario is to run a line from the old vent (swapped to return) line up to the breather line at the filler pipe, tap into that line as the return line. And ensure you seal up the factory return point on the front of the fuel tank! Keep us updated! Cheers Bennie

To pull an EA81 or EA82 is about an hour. I’m with @88SubGL I’d pull the engine to save all the bending over the side of the vehicle, even if it meant working with the engine on the ground rather than on an engine stand. If you’re not touching the clutch it’s not hard to get back in, and even then if you are it’s still not that difficult either. So much easier with the engine out. I’d also be concerned about the other intake manifold gasket leaking in the near future if you didn’t clean up he mating surfaces and replace the gasket. I’ll be interested to see how long the other side you didn’t touch lasts considering your concerns about the dodgy work of the last owner/mechanic this vehicle was subjected to. Give the EA82 a bit of time to sort its leaks out. Sadly you’re bound to find some before the year is out. I’ll admit, I don’t have a lot of love for the EA82, but I do love the L series wagons (and coupe if I could ever get one!). Cheers Bennie

You’ve got three lines from the tank correct? If so the general practice is to swap the vent line and the fuel return line with EJ conversions. You also need to swap it all at the back end before the tank too, otherwise you’re still down to small diametre return line. Cheers Bennie

Chasing down a LHD clutch cable part number. Found the part number and superseding part numbers so Cheers Bennie

All good on this. Got the numbers I needed. Cheers Bennie

I’m trying to track down some factory part numbers that are USDM specific. If someone could pls PM me a USDM VIN for a manual Gen1 or 2 Legacy that would help me out heaps! The VIN details won’t be going any further than me and will only be used for parts searches online to get the correct bits I’m chasing. Cheers Bennie

@SaltyMike- is this surging also associated with difficulty starting the EJ22? Asking as another thread about a hunting idle issue reminded me of a hard starting a fluctuating idle issue I had with my EJ22 many years ago. I had several codes show up, CTS, TPS, knock and I think an O2 sensor issue. It was an absolute dog to start, idle was poor at best and it ran like a dying dog under load. I’ll give it this though, I was still able to reliably drive places once it started, just it was missing a few ponies in this situation. I changed all the sensors at once rather than chasing down what the real culprit was. At the time I was living in our alpine area and working outside in the snow at the remote staff carpark wasn’t a time I was going to individually swap and test which sensor change made the engine operation return to normal. Once they were all swapped, the TPS “gapped” and an ECU reset all was well once again! Cheers Bennie

I had something similar and these were (from memory) the things I swapped out: - cleaned TPS - new coolant temp sensor - new knock sensor I don’t know which one was the issue. I’d be looking at the coolant temp sensor and TPS closely. I’d say if you don’t know the history of the coolant temp sensor, get a new one fitted. This is the video I did back then, while a bit different to what you describe, I reckon it’s related. Mine is a Gen1 EJ22E in an L series with a cut down wiring loom like what you’ve done in the vanagan. Cheers Bennie

Got any codes associated with the idling issue? Or any codes at all? No vacuum leaks present? They’re a couple of things to start with Cheers Bennie