el_freddo

While you’re at it get an EJ to help drag all that extra weight around reliably! (It has to be said!) Cheers Bennie

Thanks for the update! Cheers Bennie

There are alternator upgrade mods documented on the forum, they might be worth looking into as a supporting mod for your audio. Wysubey is correct, you need a spacer block for a CD head unit. I used a piece of wood that was shaped to fit, it’s temporaray I said as I fitted it over 10 years ago! You can buy plastic professional looking spacers, they should still be available but I haven’t looked in ages. Cheers Bennie

The coil the dude mentioned is used with points. If you have electronic ignition in the dizzy (eg no points in the dizzy) then you don’t need this coil thingymajiga. Cheers Bennie

Ramps will be fine as you’re not playing with the suspension or wheels. I’d recommend lifting the engine out to do the work. So much easier! Cheers Bennie

Any suspension mount bolts loose? Engine mounts loose or broken? Tensioner noise will be there from start up and may get louder with revs, so you can rule that out. Cheers Bennie

Have you looked into your TPS (throttle position sensor)? You can remove it, pop the cover off (drill the plastic tabs on the mounting plate) and clean the contact slides and tab arms. These can sometimes gunk up and cause TPS reading issues for the ECU. Have you checked codes? I’d be starting there. Cheers Bennie

Nope. Cheers Bennie

Fair enough! Do some google searches, I’m sure it’s been documented somewhere as to how you trick the ECU. Otherwise the other way to go is aftermarket ECU if you’re that way inclined. Tunability goes through the roof. Cheers Bennie

You got pet mice up there too? Cheers Bennie

Isn’t this exactly what @heartless did in the second reply?? I bet if everyone ignored the initial request because we don’t have the info the OP wants to read, the first reply would be from the OP with something along the lines of “really? No one? No info?”. I’m keen to see this strut delete. The only one I’ve ever seen was on Phinzinza’s MY wagon that he used for jumping (and I’m talking HIGH!). He added an upper wishbone to hold the top of the hub where the strut usually did the job. Not road legal, not worth yours or someone else’s life on the open road! To me the fabrication required for a strut delete is way more effort than swapping springs on struts or building a strut/spring combo to put on the vehicle. If the idea of spring compressors scare the bejesus out of you from some past bad experience, maybe you need to make something like this to do the work with: Cheeky Russians have their spoob sorted! Quick, safe and easy! If you’re looking at fabricating a strut delete in a Subaru I’m 100% sure you can build a device like this and sort out your current suspension. Cheers Bennie

What he wants is a basic carb runner and has a good EFI long block to use. I reckon he needs to swap that long block for a NA long block. The EFI heads mean nothing to him. Cheers Bennie

You’re going to have to trick the ECU to think that the auto is still there I reckon. I know this works on earlier models but really don’t know with the later stuff. Why didn’t you just swap for a manual vehicle? Cheers Bennie

I agree, I don’t like the male stub into the diff arrangement. When out bush too much oil to drop and too many contaminates to get into the diff/gearbox if a shaft needs to be swapped. I’m not in that era of Subaru so it’s a non issue for me but I have often thought about that. Cheers Bennie

Weeping HGs externally - coolant and oil. Usual subaru things - vibrations, weird noises... Check suspension bushes, although at 80,000 miles they should still be good for a long time unless it spent all it’s life on a dirt road. Cheers Bennie

Because what you’re asking just isn’t done commercially!! The only bolt on option is to go for a set of coil overs, but unless you want racer-boy-hug-the-road-“fun” then you’re flat out of options other than to go buy a “truck”. So basically, like everyone said previously, it’s buy all the parts and build it yourself (DIY) or buy all the parts and go to a suspension shop to have them put together and you can decide whether you fit them or they do. Youll want a 4 wheel alignment after all this work is done. Have a nice day, Cheers Bennie

You can and it won’t. It will be loud. It will most likely drone when cruising. It’ll most likely be cop bait. Pack ear muffs Cheers Bennie

Holding your sunnies! Or if off-roading and don’t have an in car UHF radio, it’s good for holding some hand held units - I did this for many years. Cheers Bennie

We love the Gen3 in our family! Solid vehicles and I really like the performance of the EJ251 that comes in the RX variant over here. We’re getting 8.6L/100km consistently with 418,000 km on the clock. Enjoy your Gen3! Cheers Bennie

You’re clearly keen on the swap so you’ll have to take measurements and work it out for yourself. I bet my $2 on the dashboard being longer than the impreza one. So you’d have to look into cutting the legacy unit down to fit, then make it all look pretty. If you’re only after the instrument cluster it might swap over with wiring repinning of some plugs. Door cards. Measure, work it out. My gut says different. Cheers Bennie

Why not get funky and run the EA82 MPFI system with those heads? The only real mod needed is to the dizzy and that’s well documented. Then it’s the wiring loom. But yes, you could run the carb on the efi heads with injectors as plug. Cheers Bennie

Interior wise, probably not a lot. Seats will probably be the only thing to transfer across - maybe. Engine, gearbox and diff no worries. Just ECU harness is what needs to be investigated. Cheers Bennie

Use the stock EJ mid pipe section that those equal length Y pipes use, then go custom from there. Ruby Scoo above runs the gen 1 Y pipe with a welded on cat back exhaust that’s custom for the L series, lift and EJ. Using the factory EA exhasut with an EJ should only be a stop gap as it’s very restricting. Cheers Bennie

Sounds like a dead crank angle sensor in the dizzy to me - ECU doesn’t know when to hit spark and doesn’t know when to fire injector. That said, I’m not sure that the SPFI ECU signals the dizzy to fire since it’s still in the mechanical spark mechanism era. Have you checked for codes yet? Cheers Bennie

What year was the engine originally from? I might be able to rip a VIN from a car advert that can be used to reference part numbers. Cheers Bennie