el_freddo

I’d say it’s rings. If you had them out to inspect the rings you should’ve replaced them. I would’ve said valve stem seals, but since it’s longer in duration than just initial startup it seems like oil is allowed past the rings on shutdown. Have you overfilled the oil to compensate for the oil use? This could be exasibating the oil burn on start up and initial running. Cheers Bennie

If a bearing fails in an idler or a tensioner the belt tends to melt and make a huge mess rather than freying and snapping. Cleaning the melted belt from the teeth of the oil pump, crank and cam wheels takes ages, not “the usual” 30 mins on the side of the road. Cheers Bennie

Haha, the infamous Weber upgrade! Best upgrade IMHO. I saved coin and never did the Weber carb Cheers Bennie

Love the fix! And you’ll love the EJ in there. I’m guessing you’ve got a front wheel drive gearbox? You’ll want to upgrade that to an AWD box to help get the power down to the road Cheers Bennie

We still love pics! Mine are nuggets too - “good from afar, but far from good”! ^ I’ve had Ruby Scoo for well over ten years, I think I’m coming up on fifteen years. She’s got a computer but that’s never given me any trouble and I love the reliability, power and “starts every time” factor that came with the ECU and EJ22. Mid you’re willing, I’m keen to see pics of yours, as I’m sure others are (or start a thread in the members rides subforum). Cheers Bennie

Noise/rattle at the back of the car could be a muffler that’s broken down internally. Cheers Bennie

It could be the clutch cable chewing into the metal outer casing, or it could be an issue with the pressure plate. Also check the retainer pin at the top of the clutch pedal - mine recently “dropped” out. I replaced it with a pin from the brake pedal, there’s a plastic safety clip and a metal circlip that holds the pin in rather than just that pushed on inverted star clip. Mine feels much better now that the pin is intalled correctly. I don’t know how long it was only holding by one side of the clutch cable U piece that the pin passes through on both sides. Cheers Bennie

While you’re at it get an EJ to help drag all that extra weight around reliably! (It has to be said!) Cheers Bennie

Thanks for the update! Cheers Bennie

There are alternator upgrade mods documented on the forum, they might be worth looking into as a supporting mod for your audio. Wysubey is correct, you need a spacer block for a CD head unit. I used a piece of wood that was shaped to fit, it’s temporaray I said as I fitted it over 10 years ago! You can buy plastic professional looking spacers, they should still be available but I haven’t looked in ages. Cheers Bennie

The coil the dude mentioned is used with points. If you have electronic ignition in the dizzy (eg no points in the dizzy) then you don’t need this coil thingymajiga. Cheers Bennie

Ramps will be fine as you’re not playing with the suspension or wheels. I’d recommend lifting the engine out to do the work. So much easier! Cheers Bennie

Any suspension mount bolts loose? Engine mounts loose or broken? Tensioner noise will be there from start up and may get louder with revs, so you can rule that out. Cheers Bennie

Have you looked into your TPS (throttle position sensor)? You can remove it, pop the cover off (drill the plastic tabs on the mounting plate) and clean the contact slides and tab arms. These can sometimes gunk up and cause TPS reading issues for the ECU. Have you checked codes? I’d be starting there. Cheers Bennie

Nope. Cheers Bennie

Fair enough! Do some google searches, I’m sure it’s been documented somewhere as to how you trick the ECU. Otherwise the other way to go is aftermarket ECU if you’re that way inclined. Tunability goes through the roof. Cheers Bennie

You got pet mice up there too? Cheers Bennie

Isn’t this exactly what @heartless did in the second reply?? I bet if everyone ignored the initial request because we don’t have the info the OP wants to read, the first reply would be from the OP with something along the lines of “really? No one? No info?”. I’m keen to see this strut delete. The only one I’ve ever seen was on Phinzinza’s MY wagon that he used for jumping (and I’m talking HIGH!). He added an upper wishbone to hold the top of the hub where the strut usually did the job. Not road legal, not worth yours or someone else’s life on the open road! To me the fabrication required for a strut delete is way more effort than swapping springs on struts or building a strut/spring combo to put on the vehicle. If the idea of spring compressors scare the bejesus out of you from some past bad experience, maybe you need to make something like this to do the work with: Cheeky Russians have their spoob sorted! Quick, safe and easy! If you’re looking at fabricating a strut delete in a Subaru I’m 100% sure you can build a device like this and sort out your current suspension. Cheers Bennie

What he wants is a basic carb runner and has a good EFI long block to use. I reckon he needs to swap that long block for a NA long block. The EFI heads mean nothing to him. Cheers Bennie

You’re going to have to trick the ECU to think that the auto is still there I reckon. I know this works on earlier models but really don’t know with the later stuff. Why didn’t you just swap for a manual vehicle? Cheers Bennie

I agree, I don’t like the male stub into the diff arrangement. When out bush too much oil to drop and too many contaminates to get into the diff/gearbox if a shaft needs to be swapped. I’m not in that era of Subaru so it’s a non issue for me but I have often thought about that. Cheers Bennie

Weeping HGs externally - coolant and oil. Usual subaru things - vibrations, weird noises... Check suspension bushes, although at 80,000 miles they should still be good for a long time unless it spent all it’s life on a dirt road. Cheers Bennie

Because what you’re asking just isn’t done commercially!! The only bolt on option is to go for a set of coil overs, but unless you want racer-boy-hug-the-road-“fun” then you’re flat out of options other than to go buy a “truck”. So basically, like everyone said previously, it’s buy all the parts and build it yourself (DIY) or buy all the parts and go to a suspension shop to have them put together and you can decide whether you fit them or they do. Youll want a 4 wheel alignment after all this work is done. Have a nice day, Cheers Bennie

You can and it won’t. It will be loud. It will most likely drone when cruising. It’ll most likely be cop bait. Pack ear muffs Cheers Bennie

Holding your sunnies! Or if off-roading and don’t have an in car UHF radio, it’s good for holding some hand held units - I did this for many years. Cheers Bennie