el_freddo

Holding your sunnies! Or if off-roading and don’t have an in car UHF radio, it’s good for holding some hand held units - I did this for many years. Cheers Bennie

We love the Gen3 in our family! Solid vehicles and I really like the performance of the EJ251 that comes in the RX variant over here. We’re getting 8.6L/100km consistently with 418,000 km on the clock. Enjoy your Gen3! Cheers Bennie

You’re clearly keen on the swap so you’ll have to take measurements and work it out for yourself. I bet my $2 on the dashboard being longer than the impreza one. So you’d have to look into cutting the legacy unit down to fit, then make it all look pretty. If you’re only after the instrument cluster it might swap over with wiring repinning of some plugs. Door cards. Measure, work it out. My gut says different. Cheers Bennie

Why not get funky and run the EA82 MPFI system with those heads? The only real mod needed is to the dizzy and that’s well documented. Then it’s the wiring loom. But yes, you could run the carb on the efi heads with injectors as plug. Cheers Bennie

Interior wise, probably not a lot. Seats will probably be the only thing to transfer across - maybe. Engine, gearbox and diff no worries. Just ECU harness is what needs to be investigated. Cheers Bennie

Use the stock EJ mid pipe section that those equal length Y pipes use, then go custom from there. Ruby Scoo above runs the gen 1 Y pipe with a welded on cat back exhaust that’s custom for the L series, lift and EJ. Using the factory EA exhasut with an EJ should only be a stop gap as it’s very restricting. Cheers Bennie

Sounds like a dead crank angle sensor in the dizzy to me - ECU doesn’t know when to hit spark and doesn’t know when to fire injector. That said, I’m not sure that the SPFI ECU signals the dizzy to fire since it’s still in the mechanical spark mechanism era. Have you checked for codes yet? Cheers Bennie

What year was the engine originally from? I might be able to rip a VIN from a car advert that can be used to reference part numbers. Cheers Bennie

For a dealer, if that includes all parts AND labour, I reckon it’s a pretty good price! College student should’ve done their cam belt maintenance on time with quality parts... Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum! Interesting ideas and project goals you have there! I’ll be keen to read where you go with this. Boosted EJ in a mini sounds.. er.. different! Cheers Bennie

I’ve got the factory Y pipe from the Gen1 EJ22 on my L, so there’s no issue with the factory bash plate. UELs in the style of the turbo exhaust manifold (with the pipe crossing under the front of the engine but usually reversed to the turbo setup) can be made to have little to no change to the bash plate. The trick is to keep it up high and possible make a heat shield for the cam covers. To make a decent note you’ll need mufflers that don’t muffle the sound so well - straight through mufflers seem to do this well. A decent exhaust shop should sort this out no issue. This is my setup from 9 years ago. It’s still running now without any issues even though I’ve scraped it, rocked on it and flooded it with water... you can hear the exhaust in this video once it changes to the outside camera: That said, the aftermarket UEL sound is sweet. We did some DIY ones for my sister’s Gen3 RX. The other day as it pulled into our driveway I was waiting to check out the WRX that I thought was about to drive past! It’s got a cat back “sports exhaust” from the previous owner, the UELs make it Subaru spec now. No video of that I’m sorry. Pic of the build process: and the final product - I forgot to get a pic of it fitted: with this setup we can return it to stock if need be as we’ve not modified any points where joints occur in the exhaust, really though, why would you go back to stock?? Cheers Bennie

AUDM doesn’t get half of the JDM goodies that are actually on offer. NZ gets many of them shipped over as second hand vehicles from what I understand. I also don’t know how the Siamese exhaust ports help with emissions, I thought they’d drop the required emissions and that’s why they got rid of them! This could be a long shot - any models or parts made in the US - or is everything built in Japan and shipped stateside? Cheers Bennie

And we all know what resolves this issue... Cheers Bennie

This is always something I don’t understand about the USDM single port heads - why go backwards like that if you’ve got the tooling for the dual port heads? I find the whole single port heads just at odds. We’ve got the dual port all the way through in our EJ engines. Cheers Bennie

The hard start and rough idle could be too much fuel. I suspect you’re using the injectors from the EJ25, on start up a rich fuel mixture is used to help aid starting. This extra shot combined with the smaller engine capacity could cause an over fuelling situation which wouldn’t be great when starting. As for the codes, if the temp sensor was dropped or knocked when swapped with the coolant crossover pipe it could’ve died, especially if it was already hanging in there by a thread so to speak. The other codes, best of luck with those I’m sorry. Sometimes you might get lucky and have one code sorted and the rest follow suit... it doesn’t always happen, but it can at times. Cheers Bennie

And a lack of need for more speed/power! Cheers Bennie

I agree with heartless. A reputable aftermarket brand works just as good as a genuine item for ball joints, tie rod ends and rack ends. Cheers Bennie

As for the air compressor, you might find one in an early legacy that has air suspension, even if it has coil springs - many ppl don’t remove the compressor. And I believe it’s the same unit between the L and the Legacy, maybe with a different mounting plate. It’s in the same location too - front left guard Thinking about it, your air system probably has leaks that lead to the air compressor burning out due to being overworked/worked too long too often. Cheers Bennie

If the screws on the oil pump are loose they leak internally. The drop you’re seeing is probably the crank seal leaking. So LHS bank is making the noise. With the use of a stethoscope, you should be able to isolate the noise to the top end or the bottom end. Cheers Bennie

Did you have the hand brake off too? I’m not familiar with autos and awd, but dont they use trans fluid pressure to apply drive to the rear end? Cheers Bennie

All rubber EFI fuel lines in good condition? The only time I’ve smelt fuel is when I had a perished rubber fuel line that was leaking fuel... It’s odd that you can smell fuel too. Cheers Bennie

I should add that the rear end is different for 2wd vs 4wd too. The swnig arms have different setups for the bearings - 2wd has a fixed stub axle, 4wd has a rotating stub axle. The K frame has a tab for the rear diff’s front mount with 4wd, the 2wd frame does not This mount can be welded in place and swing arms are interchangeable Cheers Bennie

My EJ22 has lifter tick when the oil is low. It’s like a built in indicator! Lifter tick is very different to knock in sound. Tick is a higher pitched frequency than that of knock which is a much lower tone sound. And knock from a dead/dying bearing sounds like it’s deep in the engine too (which it is). Cheers Bennie

Suspension parts are interchanageble. If your XT is 4wd/AWD, you’ll want the rear struts from a 4wd L series sedan or wagon. Front struts are a direct swap over, as are the rear swing arms and “K” frame, and the front control arms and radius rods. The engine crossmember is turbo specific, but the NA unit can be swapped in and modified for the turbo up pipe. Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum Ifly! Thats one super clean L series! What are your plans for her? Cheers Bennie