el_freddo

My thought is to use the next size up screw with the same fine thread. You may need to drill out the hole in the rotor cap. Or EJ it, “perfect” excuse Cheers Bennie

Only if you’ll deliver!! Cheers Bennie

Use your MY flywheel. You’ll have to dremel out the mounting holes. OR: have a machine shop fill the current holes and redrill for the EJ crank bolt pattern. I’ve seen it done on the forum before. You’ll also need an adaptor plate. And I hope you got the wiring loom and computer for the engine too. You’ll need that! I know that engine as the EJ22E, could be the same as the EJ222, but I don’t know. What I do know is that it’s an awesome engine and you’ll love it in your beast. Expect gearbox to become a loose gearbag in no time flat... start working on the gearbox replacement now. Cheers Bennie PS: also have a read of this file, it’ll tell you exactly what you need in parts and what you need to do for the conversion http://www.mediafire.com/file/edqqit6xq9tthx6/Numbchux+EJ+to+EA+Swap+Guide.pdf

^ understatement! @Giles, that replacement piece you’ve made is NEAT! I don’t think there would be many over here that would go to this effort in their backyard/shed/driveway etc. keep up the good work! Cheers Bennie

I know the coupe got a beefed up intrusion bar. The brumby has a lame excuse for an intrusion bar. Roos can do some serious side panel damage when they run into you! But I’d prefer that over getting one in the front end - they regularly write new and old cars off (and themselves in the process). Good luck with that! Cheers Bennie

Low beam on the Gen3 is always going to suck balls. We manage this with good quality globes and a set of good quality auxiliary driving lights to bring up the brightness as soon as the passing car is gone. As for LEDs - I’m with FerGloyale - obnoxious. The LED bars especially. Wrong colour. A bluish light is not what you want for driving with. It’s a scattered light wave. A white-yellowish light is best, particularly in fog. This light is a stable light. Those really white Crystal Vision globes are pretty good, I think we have them in our Pajero (I haven’t looked into this yet) Adding a set of relays right near the light could work - but the lense will probably let you down after all that work. At the end of the day, without upping the low beam wattage and annoing other drivers, there’s not much you can do really. Cheers Bennie

Thanks mate, can’t say I’ve looked at an oil sump in a while! Cheers Bennie

I’d SO have one of these if we got them here! Loads of potential to clean her up and have a sweet two door again! Cheers Bennie

That doesn’t seem right! Has the oil pick up been bent? Cheers Bennie

Yeah ok but that’s really adding confusing information - it’s an EA81, no mention of turbo! Cheers Bennie

Dammit Todd, I got excited for an update!! Cheers Bennie

Really?? A module over here is $75ish aftermarket. A dizzy is several hundred!! Where the hell are you getting these cheap dizzys? Cheers Bennie

And yours needs a tacho wire regardless of a tachometer or not in the instrument cluster. Cheers Bennie

1) replace the ignition module in the dizzy. It’s a good idea to replace the coil at the same time - if the coil dies it typically kills the ignition module. It WILL happen again, and it’ll be random. Cheers Bennie

Fact of the matter is that not many ppl would buy cars from parts yards. It’s just those rare/valuable ones that get munched up by the system that I hate. As for the red light arrows, we’ve always had them and they’re not going anywhere! I was amazed when driving in California that you could turn right on a red as if it were a give way sign. If I’ve got that wrong blame every local that we saw do it!! Cool law though I reckon. Cheers Bennie

I reckon it’s a cam belt issue - failed bearing on an idler pulley or failed tensioner (rare though). I’ve had it happen before, but mine was due to the engine being submerged over the cam area for several minutes. Cheers Bennie

And more detail of the cutting on page three. Cheers Bennie

Got an electronic ignition module in the dizzy? A dead coil will kill the module. So replace the module, get spark, fuel pump cut module magic box thing will send power to the fuel pump. Cheers Bennie

^ this is what we want to know about. HOW did you fit a DOHC without cutting the frame/chassis rails? Was a Big F’n Hammer (BFH) involved?? I too am keen for pics of this area specifically. I know they can’t fit without rail mods, cutting OR hammer. And just for clarification, DOHC is double OVER head cams - meaning two per head, not two cams per engine (Single OVER head cam). Not putting you down or hanging a dig. I’ve heard of people getting this wrong before! And @FerGloyale - who mentioned that avls? I doubt many play with that series of engine! And a ‘98 EJ25 would most likely be the EJ25D - with the DOHC heads... chop chop. Cheers Bennie

Sounds sinister and seems like it’s more of a reflection of the driver than the vehicle itself! I believe our police still have the powers to impound and crush vehicles under our anti-hooning laws. They usually go in stages with the penalty getting larger for each ongoing offence. Then at some point they repossess your vehicle and crush it - without it making it to the parts yard! And if you’re doing something really stupid or you’re a repeat offender in another vehicle they can go straight to crushing the vehicle. I believe this is under pretty extreme circumstances. We don’t hear about it happening often, but when the laws first came in the media were all over it! Cheers Bennie

@carfreak85 can you buy what’s left of a car from a yard? Over here, at least in Vic, if a car makes it into the parts yard it’s a one way ticket to the crusher from there. There is no way to get the vehicle from the yard let alone registered again! Cheers Bennie

Looks interesting mate. I’ll be looking forward to the build progressing - with pics! Cheers Bennie

You’ll probably find this means using a BFH to “massage” the chassis rails. It could look like crap once done. Or if you’ve got enough lift the chassis rails might not need to be touched. I too am keen for pics. Cheers Bennie

It’s two sided - imports costs and complainance. Import costs are usually the same across the board. Compliance is not and depends on the vehicle. For example, the MY hatch can have brumby doors fitted to comply with the side intrusion bar requirement. The 3 door coupe, these need to be fitted by a qualified company. The means welding and labour time to do it. I don’t think the RHD conversion would be difficult, it’d just require an engineer to sign off and since you be using factory parts from a donor vehicle I doubt there would be an issue with this. May the end of the day it comes down to how deep your pockets are to take on a pursuit like this. I’d have a three door RXII coupe from NZ if I could afford it! And I’ll take a hatch while I’m at it Cheers Bennie

Interesting. The EA81 is pretty much non-existent in parts yards unless the odd brumby pops up. I’ve had more luck with the EA81 in some yards around Adelaide in SA. Voretex is very rare and the L series - you might be lucky to find one in the yards on your travels. It’ll probably be auto too. They haven’t completely dried up but you’ve got to be patient! Cheers Bennie