el_freddo

I had cheap LED lights on my rear tyre carrier’s swing arms, no issues. Trailer is traditional globes. Dad’s car trailer has LEDs and no issues on the L series, can double check this in the next couple of weeks if you wish. There shouldn’t be any difference in running the LED trailer lights, it doesn’t matter what is switched, so long as you have the pos and neg the right way around for the diodes to work. Cheers Bennie

7 pin trailer plugs are alive and well @Steptoe! I prefer them over the flat type. Call me old fashioned, I just like them better mainly because that’s what I grew up with. My trailer plug on both the Brumby and L series are wired into the factory loom. No diodes or anything like that and they both work sweet. Cheers Bennie

Awesome effort FerGloyale! As for the front diff, no safety retainer clips etc on the L series 5 speed box or any of the EJ boxes I’ve played with. That bent shaft is impressive! Sure it wasn’t smashed on a rock (although I think the Gen3 rear end has a lower control arm to bend first). Any vibration experienced? And that rear shaft removal trick, you’re swapping the rear axle with the shaft through the rear swing arm hub mount hole, have I got that correct? If so that’s an awesome find, I would not have thought of doing that for a shaft replacement on the Gen3! Cheers Bennie

Looks good mate. DIY build? Cheers Bennie

Glad to see you made it over here STiAMV! I forgot that your brumby/brat/MV was one of the Finnish long tray units. Cheers Bennie

I doubt there’s damage at three or four teeth out of time. So you may have dodged a bullet there. I reckon GD will give a difinitive answer about that cam timing. Reset the cam belt, check the tensioner and all the idlers - replace it rumbly when spun or if the bearing has already collapsed. Cheers Bennie

There is a dual range 5spd box. They’re most common after mid ‘87 models when it seems the single range was phased out (in Oz they’re super rare and I’ve never seen a series 2 with a single range. It could be different for the US market). Cheers Bennie

My thought is to use the next size up screw with the same fine thread. You may need to drill out the hole in the rotor cap. Or EJ it, “perfect” excuse Cheers Bennie

Only if you’ll deliver!! Cheers Bennie

Use your MY flywheel. You’ll have to dremel out the mounting holes. OR: have a machine shop fill the current holes and redrill for the EJ crank bolt pattern. I’ve seen it done on the forum before. You’ll also need an adaptor plate. And I hope you got the wiring loom and computer for the engine too. You’ll need that! I know that engine as the EJ22E, could be the same as the EJ222, but I don’t know. What I do know is that it’s an awesome engine and you’ll love it in your beast. Expect gearbox to become a loose gearbag in no time flat... start working on the gearbox replacement now. Cheers Bennie PS: also have a read of this file, it’ll tell you exactly what you need in parts and what you need to do for the conversion http://www.mediafire.com/file/edqqit6xq9tthx6/Numbchux+EJ+to+EA+Swap+Guide.pdf

^ understatement! @Giles, that replacement piece you’ve made is NEAT! I don’t think there would be many over here that would go to this effort in their backyard/shed/driveway etc. keep up the good work! Cheers Bennie

I know the coupe got a beefed up intrusion bar. The brumby has a lame excuse for an intrusion bar. Roos can do some serious side panel damage when they run into you! But I’d prefer that over getting one in the front end - they regularly write new and old cars off (and themselves in the process). Good luck with that! Cheers Bennie

Low beam on the Gen3 is always going to suck balls. We manage this with good quality globes and a set of good quality auxiliary driving lights to bring up the brightness as soon as the passing car is gone. As for LEDs - I’m with FerGloyale - obnoxious. The LED bars especially. Wrong colour. A bluish light is not what you want for driving with. It’s a scattered light wave. A white-yellowish light is best, particularly in fog. This light is a stable light. Those really white Crystal Vision globes are pretty good, I think we have them in our Pajero (I haven’t looked into this yet) Adding a set of relays right near the light could work - but the lense will probably let you down after all that work. At the end of the day, without upping the low beam wattage and annoing other drivers, there’s not much you can do really. Cheers Bennie

Thanks mate, can’t say I’ve looked at an oil sump in a while! Cheers Bennie

I’d SO have one of these if we got them here! Loads of potential to clean her up and have a sweet two door again! Cheers Bennie

That doesn’t seem right! Has the oil pick up been bent? Cheers Bennie

Yeah ok but that’s really adding confusing information - it’s an EA81, no mention of turbo! Cheers Bennie

Dammit Todd, I got excited for an update!! Cheers Bennie

Really?? A module over here is $75ish aftermarket. A dizzy is several hundred!! Where the hell are you getting these cheap dizzys? Cheers Bennie

And yours needs a tacho wire regardless of a tachometer or not in the instrument cluster. Cheers Bennie

1) replace the ignition module in the dizzy. It’s a good idea to replace the coil at the same time - if the coil dies it typically kills the ignition module. It WILL happen again, and it’ll be random. Cheers Bennie

Fact of the matter is that not many ppl would buy cars from parts yards. It’s just those rare/valuable ones that get munched up by the system that I hate. As for the red light arrows, we’ve always had them and they’re not going anywhere! I was amazed when driving in California that you could turn right on a red as if it were a give way sign. If I’ve got that wrong blame every local that we saw do it!! Cool law though I reckon. Cheers Bennie

I reckon it’s a cam belt issue - failed bearing on an idler pulley or failed tensioner (rare though). I’ve had it happen before, but mine was due to the engine being submerged over the cam area for several minutes. Cheers Bennie

And more detail of the cutting on page three. Cheers Bennie

Got an electronic ignition module in the dizzy? A dead coil will kill the module. So replace the module, get spark, fuel pump cut module magic box thing will send power to the fuel pump. Cheers Bennie