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el_freddo

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Everything posted by el_freddo

  1. ^ this is what we want to know about. HOW did you fit a DOHC without cutting the frame/chassis rails? Was a Big F’n Hammer (BFH) involved?? I too am keen for pics of this area specifically. I know they can’t fit without rail mods, cutting OR hammer. And just for clarification, DOHC is double OVER head cams - meaning two per head, not two cams per engine (Single OVER head cam). Not putting you down or hanging a dig. I’ve heard of people getting this wrong before! And @FerGloyale - who mentioned that avls? I doubt many play with that series of engine! And a ‘98 EJ25 would most likely be the EJ25D - with the DOHC heads... chop chop. Cheers Bennie
  2. Sounds sinister and seems like it’s more of a reflection of the driver than the vehicle itself! I believe our police still have the powers to impound and crush vehicles under our anti-hooning laws. They usually go in stages with the penalty getting larger for each ongoing offence. Then at some point they repossess your vehicle and crush it - without it making it to the parts yard! And if you’re doing something really stupid or you’re a repeat offender in another vehicle they can go straight to crushing the vehicle. I believe this is under pretty extreme circumstances. We don’t hear about it happening often, but when the laws first came in the media were all over it! Cheers Bennie
  3. @carfreak85 can you buy what’s left of a car from a yard? Over here, at least in Vic, if a car makes it into the parts yard it’s a one way ticket to the crusher from there. There is no way to get the vehicle from the yard let alone registered again! Cheers Bennie
  4. Looks interesting mate. I’ll be looking forward to the build progressing - with pics! Cheers Bennie
  5. You’ll probably find this means using a BFH to “massage” the chassis rails. It could look like crap once done. Or if you’ve got enough lift the chassis rails might not need to be touched. I too am keen for pics. Cheers Bennie
  6. It’s two sided - imports costs and complainance. Import costs are usually the same across the board. Compliance is not and depends on the vehicle. For example, the MY hatch can have brumby doors fitted to comply with the side intrusion bar requirement. The 3 door coupe, these need to be fitted by a qualified company. The means welding and labour time to do it. I don’t think the RHD conversion would be difficult, it’d just require an engineer to sign off and since you be using factory parts from a donor vehicle I doubt there would be an issue with this. May the end of the day it comes down to how deep your pockets are to take on a pursuit like this. I’d have a three door RXII coupe from NZ if I could afford it! And I’ll take a hatch while I’m at it Cheers Bennie
  7. Interesting. The EA81 is pretty much non-existent in parts yards unless the odd brumby pops up. I’ve had more luck with the EA81 in some yards around Adelaide in SA. Voretex is very rare and the L series - you might be lucky to find one in the yards on your travels. It’ll probably be auto too. They haven’t completely dried up but you’ve got to be patient! Cheers Bennie
  8. Thanks for the update Ritchie! Glad it all went well! My brumby is currently dash-less and is RHD so I could’ve got the required pics for you. But I’m a little late to the party for that! Cheers Bennie
  9. Get on it Jono! Now is the time to be collecting bits for the Gen1 Liberty in my opinion. They’re still available in the yards, can be had for cheap on gumtree too atm. But like the L series, this is the death-nell for these vehicles being common and real easy to get parts for! I ran the engine today to show my dad. It’s sat for a week - and started no worries AND without any lifter tick. I’m pretty happy with it. The oil is milky so there’s a head gasket to be sorted but I was going to do that as a matter of preventative maintenance anyway. It didn’t take a lot of water, the sort of amount you’d expect for a cooling system that’s just been filled and run for the first time. Cheers Bennie
  10. Oil residue on the exhaust will hang around long after the oil leak is fixed. Your second post, is this the solution or are you showing how clean your engine is before you take it for a drive? Cheers Bennie
  11. Are you hinting at bookface there?? That’s one of the reasons why I’m on it anymore. Cheers Bennie
  12. Hey Tod, are you willing to post international? I know a guy that’s after a set, somewhere in Europe. Cheers Bennie
  13. Series 1 or 2? I didn’t think there was any difference between the NA and the turbo grille. At least I’m sure this is the case in Oz. All the best with the sale. Cheers Bennie
  14. Lastest video of a bit of fun out bush earlier this year: Need more trips! Cheers Bennie
  15. That’s what I’ve always done. No issue. GD might have something to say about my method though. I’m keen to know more about this white bristle disc use... Cheers Bennie
  16. The difference is mainly in wiring and compression ratio. You’ll find this EJ22 is a lower compression ratio than that of your ‘96 unit. So you might expect a small drop in performance. If you snap cam belt with this EJ22 it’s happy days for the valves - this engine is the last non interference engine that Subaru produced. Cheers Bennie
  17. You won’t get that off without machining. Block deck needs to be cleaned so there’s no old head gasket material left. I use a flat blade to do this. Once you’ve done the blade work and are satisfied that you’ve got all the gasket off, I then wipe down with a white spirit like metho. Then assemble. Cheers Bennie
  18. "Bugger!" At least there was a positive in it! Upgrades are always good! Cheers Bennie
  19. For all of those out there contemplating an EJ conversion, this is one of the reasons why buying a donor vehicle can be easier - especially for the first timer. But with that said, this is how I've gone about it twice now - building a conversion from parts of several cars - why? Mainly because I've been given parts from some good mates which only require me to get the main bits like the engine and some supporting pieces that are needed for all conversions. Space constraints of renting can be prohibitive to having a donor vehicle on the property too. So this is how I "bench" test my engine and cutdown loom (plus it's good fun). Loom was cut down last week and the test done this weekend gone. Everything wiring wise checks out. Engine wise I have a code 35 (purge control solenoid valve) and no knocking on start up Now it'll get some preventative maintenance such as head gaskets while it remains out of the vehicle. https://youtu.be/vBXrmIzWiZY I reckon @sparkyboy will wet his pants at this and I kind of hope a few more of you will too (and be inspired to do your own conversions!). I've since fitted a radiator and run it for a longer period of time. I'm hoping to do this again later in the week, not that I have to, but I would like to see the light for the fan trigger to come on... This will end up in my Brumby once both engine and vehicle are ready. Cheers Bennie
  20. When I do my brumby valve clearances I have that cylinder at top dead centre. Since your headsare off the vehicle, when there is no load on the valves, this would be the best spot to do them in. Cheers Bennie
  21. What I don’t understand about this issue (the 2009 one) is that the fans were NOT running and a new coolant temp sensor “fixed” it. If there’s an issue with the coolant temp sensor, or the circuit, the ECU runs the fans full time and the check engine light will illuminate. @1997reduxe - the best way to see the coolant temp sensor is from behind the intake manifold on the RHS of the engine. Cheers Bennie
  22. The cam will become very easy to rotate, no friction compared to when trying to push a valve. It’s very obvious! Cheers Bennie
  23. I should add this is for the state of Victoria. Other states differ. I believe ours used to be very strict - to/from mechanics or club events. It was very difficult to take a Sunday drive for yourself from what I understand. But that’s all changed now and for the better. Over here in all states our plates don’t change. We used to have windscreen stickers but now we just pay our rego and it’s done. Police can check rego on their systems now rather than relying on the sticker - but it’s easy to miss your rego payment. Club rego is good because regular use rego is over $700 per vehicle annually. Club rego I think is about $70 a year! But your vehicle has to be a minimum of 25 years old. Dad argues with me all the time that my subi’s aren’t a true classic... Anyway, I can’t wait to get my subi on club rego. My other ones need to be engineered to transfer to club rego. Cheers Bennie
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