el_freddo

Sorry, I meant flash as in remove stored codes. No good changing sensors, check codes and still have the same stored codes showing up. You’ll be chasing your tail if you’re not clearing these! May least that’s how I operate in my shed, it works for me every time. Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... graphic equaliser (say it in a Homer Simpson voice with some drool ) @Giles - I'd be pulling all CV shafts down, cleaning, regreasing and putting quality new CV boots (“bellows” - cool name). Double check that you’ve got an LSD our the back, over here they were optional on the Vortex/XT4. If so it’s also a good time to service the clutch packs that will most likely be worn out. I’ve read that some sort of Nissan clutch packs fit in since the r160 is essentially the same diff. Cheers Bennie

There’s a set of connectors to erase stored codes, but I’m unsure about the exact details. Instead I do the “battery dance” - disconnect the battery for a few minutes. Half hour to be really sure! Start the engine but do not touch the throttle. Idle may waiver up and down a little, this is normal. Don’t touch the throttle or put it in gear until the fans have cycled at least once, I usually do twice. Then you can go for a drive or shut it down and have lunch etc. By checking timing I’m taking about the cam belt timing. Sorry I should’ve been more explicit about that. Just check to see that it’s all aligned as it should be. Cheers Bennie

Just go and visit a (or a few) tyre specialists/dealers and talk with them knowing the info that Matt and other members have contributed in here. They’ll be able to give you an upfront answer and you can ask more questions with a much quicker turn around in reply time. I think you’re over thinking this and really just need to get a new set of tyres. I’ve been reading since the first post and now it seems you’ve got the tyre you want but then nit pick for something else. It took me less than ten minutes on the phone to decide on my tyre choice. And I always get an alignment with new tyres, always! Alignments are cheap insurance to get the most life (=distance) from your tyre. . Bennie

Did you flash the ecu between each sensor being swapped? Is the cam timing lining up as it should?? Cheers Bennie

Bloody schmick looking job on that alloy elbow Jono!! Looks like it just came off the showroom floor! Cheers Bennie

I’d say the samba is old school - not that I know the years they were produced. One of those in the stables would be sweet! Maybe I did mis-read your post. If only my snorkel let me get across that rather large puddle I could be there... maybe Anyhow, awesome pics none the less! Cheers Bennie

How is yours the only Subaru there if you’ve got the brz, wrx and samba (super cool!)? Cheers Bennie

Stop teasing us Johnny! Where’s the rest of this pop-top build?? Cheers Bennie

There’s a set of bushes in the shift linkage between the gearbox and the lever. It’s a common issue. Someone will know the parts you need. It’s relatively simple, just fiddly to get to. Cheers Bennie

Yes. Pull the main harness from the vehicle. Leave the engine harness on the engine. Trim down the main harness, lay it out over the engine with the wires you need to start it setup either on a switch panel or labelled so you can connect them to a battery for start up. Use the wiring on the vehicle for the fuel pump, might need to extend some wires for this. When it starts, runs, doesn’t throw a CEL (unless it did beforehand and you know what the code is) you know you’re good to wrap the wiring and go ahead with pulling the engine etc. This allows you to troubleshoot any harness/engine related issues without extra downtime on your EA daily. You could even lay the EJ harness into the L in prep for the engine to be put in, again, saves on downtime. The donor vehicle is the way to go unless you know exactly what you’re doing and what you need - or you like learning “along the way” when you find bits missing or bits needed that you’ve over looked. The FSM wiring diagrams of the ECU are the ones you want. Basically any wire from the ECU plugs are kept. I unwrapped the harness then traced all wires from the ECU, taping them together as I went. Anything that was woven in an untaped got cut out. Here’s my testing of the harness. As you’ll see I put all the bits together rather than find a donor: Cheers Bennie

There’s some awesome work in there Giles! Ive has trouble working out what some of the pics represent, like the square cut section, the new semi dome looking piece (I have no idea where that’s from), and what are the rail pieces with the galvanised bolts/plates/rear suspension frame? Keep up the good work! Cheers Bennie

Flex is the wrong term commonly used by “low educated” 4wders, they actually need to use “articulation”... What you need to do is jack up a wheel with the others chocked well to stop the car moving off the jack. The lifted wheel will spin at some point. You should be able to release 4wd. Or go for a drive on a dirt road/with one set of wheels on the dirt, while moving apply some pressure on the 4wd lever, it’ll slip out. Lastly, while your brat might be a ‘91 model, you need to post in the EA platform section Cheers Bennie

Considering the EA81 doesn’t have timing belts it’s always going to be a pain in the arse to change them out... or not. Sorry, do my eyes deceive me or am I reading this correctly? After a few other posts in recent months I’m surprised to see you write this GD! When you say to use at his discretion, what sort of uses could it see? If this is a learning project it could be worth your time to do a full tear down and re-assembly using only the items that need replacing for a successful start up (such as head gaskets). Cheers Bennie

No, light flywheels are for high revving race applications. For off-roading you want a nice heavy flywheel to keep engine momentum. A doubled up flywheel would be awesome - but that’ll seriously cost onroad drivability of the engine if it were possible to do this. Cheers Bennie

I do what @FerGloyale does too and it works well so long as you don’t throw too much grease in the space between the bearings. It’s also necessary to prime the outer seals with rubber grease to prevent them from destroying themselves due to friction. I’ve learnt that the hard way! Cheers Bennie

Where did that pop up from and when does the resto begin? Cheers Bennie

If this is the case you’re applying too much “goop”! Less is more in most applications of RTV ^ especially in high torque applications such as engine and gearbox cases! Cheers Bennie

Short answer: it won’t work. Long answer: the rear stub axle is a smaller diametre than the front axle of the driveshaft. So the front hub will not fit the rear stub axle for a start, that’s basically the blocker for this mod - and the reason why not one does it, ever! Mandy EA82 front drive shaft outer shafts/axles are different to the EA81 drive shaft outer shafts/axles. You have to swap tocthe EA82 hub for EA82 shafts, plus some other stuff I don’t care about so can’t tell you anything in that department as I’m not going to do that to my brumby. The 28s look good on those rims and your Brat. What’s the bearing like with that rubber?? Woeful at best I bet You’ll need a gearbox build with 4.111:1 diff ratio minimum! Cheers Bennie

I’ll have to check that out for the time if/when I need to replace the heater core in the brumby. It could possibly be different for RHD and LHD vehicle’s too... I’ll have a look! Cheers Bennie

“Two out of three ain’t bad...” That RS (or turbo converted liberty going by the stock NA front bar) looks schmick!! Puts mine to shame (that I’m yet to actually drive!) from what I can see there. Cheers Bennie

If you haven’t already, it’s necessary to loosen the tension on the bolts of these bushes, then put the car back on the ground to let the bushes sit at the changed ride height, then nip up all the nuts/bolts at the new height. This allows the bushes to sit naturally without excessive tension on them all the time. If not done, the bushes will flog our very quickly! Cheers Bennie

Welcome from one Aussie to another sleepr! Got any pics of your rides? Cheers Bennie

@sparkyboy yeah all of our wagons are the “high roof” model, we don’t have any flat roof models! The Oz delivered RS turbo is an EJ20G with a water to air intercooler. The bonnet scoop is purely for air flow over the turbo, which really isn’t entirely necessary. We didn’t get the EJ22t. The EJ20G is the first of the EJ turbo engines with the DOHC heads, although the RS heads are a different design to the wrx heads... And the RS wagon ONLY came out in a 1993 model which makes it a series 2. The grille you’ve offered looks like our series 1 style which won’t fit without changing the bonnet and possibly the headlights (is need to double check this). Thanks for the offer but keep it on the wall as a good memory of your old ride! It’s good to hear the EJ was “re-homed”. @Giles - you been stuck in the shed mate? We haven’t seen any updates recently, is it finished yet?? Cheers Bennie

I’m not 100% sure. All I know is avoid the dual mass flywheel as they tend to develop an annoying squeak. Cheers Bennie