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Everything posted by el_freddo
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What to replace when rebuilding
el_freddo replied to Metalman1's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Considering the EA81 doesn’t have timing belts it’s always going to be a pain in the arse to change them out... or not. Sorry, do my eyes deceive me or am I reading this correctly? After a few other posts in recent months I’m surprised to see you write this GD! When you say to use at his discretion, what sort of uses could it see? If this is a learning project it could be worth your time to do a full tear down and re-assembly using only the items that need replacing for a successful start up (such as head gaskets). Cheers Bennie -
Dumb wheel bearing questions
el_freddo replied to Jerads727's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I do what @FerGloyale does too and it works well so long as you don’t throw too much grease in the space between the bearings. It’s also necessary to prime the outer seals with rubber grease to prevent them from destroying themselves due to friction. I’ve learnt that the hard way! Cheers Bennie -
Where did that pop up from and when does the resto begin? Cheers Bennie
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82 brat coastal Cruiser build
el_freddo replied to Johnny 5's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Short answer: it won’t work. Long answer: the rear stub axle is a smaller diametre than the front axle of the driveshaft. So the front hub will not fit the rear stub axle for a start, that’s basically the blocker for this mod - and the reason why not one does it, ever! Mandy EA82 front drive shaft outer shafts/axles are different to the EA81 drive shaft outer shafts/axles. You have to swap tocthe EA82 hub for EA82 shafts, plus some other stuff I don’t care about so can’t tell you anything in that department as I’m not going to do that to my brumby. The 28s look good on those rims and your Brat. What’s the bearing like with that rubber?? Woeful at best I bet You’ll need a gearbox build with 4.111:1 diff ratio minimum! Cheers Bennie -
“Two out of three ain’t bad...” That RS (or turbo converted liberty going by the stock NA front bar) looks schmick!! Puts mine to shame (that I’m yet to actually drive!) from what I can see there. Cheers Bennie
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If you haven’t already, it’s necessary to loosen the tension on the bolts of these bushes, then put the car back on the ground to let the bushes sit at the changed ride height, then nip up all the nuts/bolts at the new height. This allows the bushes to sit naturally without excessive tension on them all the time. If not done, the bushes will flog our very quickly! Cheers Bennie
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Welcome from one Aussie to another sleepr! Got any pics of your rides? Cheers Bennie
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@sparkyboy yeah all of our wagons are the “high roof” model, we don’t have any flat roof models! The Oz delivered RS turbo is an EJ20G with a water to air intercooler. The bonnet scoop is purely for air flow over the turbo, which really isn’t entirely necessary. We didn’t get the EJ22t. The EJ20G is the first of the EJ turbo engines with the DOHC heads, although the RS heads are a different design to the wrx heads... And the RS wagon ONLY came out in a 1993 model which makes it a series 2. The grille you’ve offered looks like our series 1 style which won’t fit without changing the bonnet and possibly the headlights (is need to double check this). Thanks for the offer but keep it on the wall as a good memory of your old ride! It’s good to hear the EJ was “re-homed”. @Giles - you been stuck in the shed mate? We haven’t seen any updates recently, is it finished yet?? Cheers Bennie
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How good is this for even suspension ?
el_freddo replied to Steptoe's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Talking to yourself again Jono?? Must be something I have to look forward to with the difference front to rear, maybe your front bumper isn’t mounted properly - or you’ve got a twisted body, but I’d expect to see that show up in the rear end too. Cheers Bennie -
While you’ve got the trans out, shove a new rear main seal on the back of the engine And replace the oil/air separator plate if it’s plastic. Cheers Bennie
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Over worked coil pack?? It’s be an odd scenario though if that were the case. If your engine doesn’t do that sort of hard pull or those sorts of revs it’ll have issues doingnit out of the blue. I’d have a go at holding the gear and revving the engine out to this point then manually changing the gear into 3rd or drive. No need for WOT to do this. ^ This practise comes from a member on another forum who reckons if it’s a grandma driven car, you need to “train” it to be more lively by doing things gently as you would if you were training from slob to athelete. Yes things won’t magically repair overnight, but going gently harder over time will allow suspension bushes to free up and become more elastic - go like the clappers straight up and you could split a bush or three. It could be the same for an engine and box too, although I’ve never experienced that before. I’d definitely check your timing belt to make sure it’s stull aligned properly - and check for any stored codes too. Cheers Bennie
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Welcome to the forum! Sounds like you’re having fun in the L. And that’s a good find on the hatch, we have very few (as in maybe 5 in the whole country) over here in Australia. As for the L providing parts to the hatch, there’s not a great deal that’s interchangeable. The dual range five speed box is probably the best part, but then you need the 4wd rear end to match the Hatch. This is the difference in the EA82 (L series) and EA81 (MY/MV) chassis/platform. Really to convert the hatch to 4wd, you’re going to need a factory 4wd EA81 unit for the 4wd rear end... Even the engine in the L series won’t fit (and is a backwards step in my opinion) without modifying the chassis rails to make way for the extra width of the EA82. Cheers Bennie
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No need to convert to a hydraulic clutch. Just use the cable clutch fork and move the pivot to match the clutch fork. Then mount the clutch cable mount bracket to the gearbox. Sounds like the trip will be some good fun! And your issue with the auto swap is that you need the TCU, associated wiring - then work out how to mate the TCU in with the ECU so that they talk to each other. Best bet is to rewrite the vehicle with an auto loom from a vehicle of the same model. It’s a lot of work for little gain for most. Cheers Bennie
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Well I didn’t know that. All XTs sold in Oz came standard with a back seat. Cheers Bennie
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I’ve used partouq.com a few times and they’ve been very good. My only issue is the fluctuation in the currency exchange but other than that they’ve been awesome. They say shipped in two days or less, but they manage to get the parts into Oz in five to seven days from the time I place the order. This is significant since our postal service could take a week to send a letter from the east coast to the west coast. Even via express it could be four days for it to get there! Cheers Bennie
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Coolant crossover pipe. Driver’s side for the RHDrive vehicles, Passenger’s side for the WHDrive vehicles. There will be two sensors there. The single wire is the temp gauge on the instrument cluster, the other one that typically has a brown plug and is two wires is for the ECU. That’s the one you want. I need a new one for my EJ22 as well. Cheers Bennie
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Sirius XM
el_freddo replied to CjLj0223's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Satellite radio?? Wtf? I’ve never heard of this in an everyday use vehicle. Digital radio is becoming a thing here in the major cities but that’s in development still and is a free service. Why would you want satellite radio? Cheers Bennie -
My brumby/brat is a GL - but that has nothing to do with rear seats... Cheers Bennie