Zekeuyasha

I've bought that Spectra rad earlier today, it should be at my store by Friday. I'm probably not going to get an additional transmission cooler, seeing as the tranny's held up fine over the past 22 years without one. But I will spend the extra time yanking the clutch fan off the donor car. Sure beats paying $130+ for a new one...Why are they so expensive? Repair updates: I've pulled the rad mounts out a little more, I hope to be able to save it, but if not I'll cut a piece from the donor car. Even if I keep the mangled one you'll only see it when the hood is open Got the condenser for the AC out, that took the brunt of the damage, the actual radiator behind it wasn't nearly as bad. But it did puncture and spray coolant all over the underside and leak out tranny fluid... I don't think the link to the photo is working so I'll post the link without IMG handles http://imgur.com/JruDa

Thanks for the quick reply, Numbchux. I'm headed down to the yard later this afternoon to check for the lines on that loyale. I'm taking the body parts off of it at least (I just need to see if I can fit a hood in the back of my borrowed 2001 Ford Windstar T.T ) Since you brought up the issue of materials, what is your opinion of plastic tank rads? AutoZone is selling them for $100. Can my car run without a fan clutch safely?

I too, hail from the order of SuperTech (Wally-World brand) That hasn't messed me up one bit. It's dirt cheap. Maybe I don't understan motor oil like I should, but I don't see a difference with more expensive oils. I have a SPFI EA82 under my hood, only problem is the lack of a radiator at the moment.... :sad:

Hey USMB, I crashed my beloved '90 loyale wagon. Took the back end of a lifted pickup to the face, so that punctured my radiator (and my R12 AC condensor ) crumpled my hood and shattered my driver side headlamp. I had to get the car towed, but the next morning I started it (didn't realize the ignition coil popped out) and the belts are smoking, cleared the radiator away from the belts, still smoking but it runs. limped it back into the driveway (bent my shifter linkage too, P is now R...) And there it sits. So there's a loyale in the junkyard not far from me, perfect condition except a blown motor. its got a FWD 5MT setup. I have a FWD 3AT. So my question is: Will the radiator off the MT work on my AT? I know the AT has tranny oil lines to the radiator, not sure if they used two different radiators. I figure that the MT would just have the oil cooler lines stuffed or something. Tell me they're interchangeable! I'm on a tight budget and the more parts I can get from that yard the better... Also, the fan clutch shroud uses 10mm bolts right? Can I run the car without the fan on the waterpump? Pics coming soon >.>

Thanks Miles =]

l75eya I can replicate your situation entirely. My car only freewheels in 3rd at speeds lower than 35MPH Same thing with the car not downshifting, especially evident when I turn onto a freeway on-ramp. If I put the car in first while going 15 miles per hour even after shifting in 2nd the car lurches and the tires bark on the pavement. I've since stopped doing that... I suppose these little nit-pickings about the car are seated squarely in the fact that the transmission is hydraulic and not electronic. Does anyone else have the problem where unless you have the car manually set in 1rst, it will never redline when you have your foot to the floor? Thanks for the quick responses guys!

I always thought this had something to do with my car being 22 years old, but then as I was digging through AllData just now I picked up something about the third solenoid in my transmission's valve body that does something with an overrunning clutch. When I lift off the accelerator, the engine immediately starts braking and slowing the car down. It's useful on hills (so this lazy guy doesn't have to put a foot on the brake ) but if it's not supposed to do that then I want to get it fixed. Does the 3AT even have an overrunning clutch or is that just on the 4EAT? The 3AT I believe was introduced in 1975 so I'm not entirely sure... Thanks for the info guys!

Old post is old but I wanted to put this up for the sake of the knowledge. We ultimately got the car towed to the dealer. The problem was fouled plugs. I took one out and it was fouled real bad, apparently the fuel filter didn't do it's job right, broke and dirtied the spark plugs. I did replace the fuel regulator and the filter before getting the car towed. After that first plug I wasn't about to spend another few hours getting to them. Subaru plugs are a real pain in the rump roast but I used to think my Loyale was as hard as it got...

Oh fantastic, under intake runners, left side. Thank you very much. You're right about the part being dealer only, but I'm going to try to put it in myself. I'll post how it went after the part comes in...

The car just died on the road about 2 weeks back, wasn't getting any fuel, but we could hear the fuel pump working. And I think it was pumping too because my uncle took it out and looked at it. No clog on the fuel line, it'll idle fine but if you put your foot on it, it dies again. We took the plastic cover off the engine and tried to look for the regulator along the fuel rail but it proved too complex in the dark. We don't have to take the exhaust manifolds off to get to it do we? Where exactly is the fuel regulator? Thanks for the help~

Yeah I was on the highway all day today it got up to speed in 12-13 seconds, it just seems longer when there's an 80 ton tractor trailer coming at you... How can I tell if I don't have a turbo? I'm pretty sure I don't because I don't have a turbo light. Just that intake boot that says "Subaru F.I." on it. were the MPFI engines all turbo and SPFI was just regular? Also I know this is completely unrelated but as I was cornering pretty sharp on the highway and all of a sudden this faint chipping/chirping sound started happening in the engine and when I looked behind me there was this huge plume of white smoke floating around...

Thank for the replies guys! I think I'm just going to make it easy on myself for now and try to find a FWD MT and just drop it in and bolt it, I don't do any extreme mudding or any of the fun things, it's just my daily driver and I'd like a little less roar on the freeway and some better performance overall. Just what you said, NorthWet, I'm not expecting any miracles. An EA82 isn't anything to win a speed race with, but tying it to a 3 speed automatic isn't making it run any nicer. It was an old granny car so that's why they got the 3AT for her and what little old lady wants to shift? So am I going to have to pull the engine up or just drop the trans from the bottom? This is starting to look like a really big project again...:-\ Can I reuse the CVTs from my automatic? they're only 10,000 miles old...

All right, that makes me a bit more confident doing the job, because he was telling me I'd have to cut a hole in the floor for the clutch pedal or something. Do I need a computer for a manual trans? Or does the computer for the engine not matter in the tranny? Edit: If I get a 5MT with 4x4, and since I just have FWD on my car, can I just let the 4x4 connector sit there and spin without anything attached to it, I don't see why not but I'm not sure.

Thanks for the quick reply Miles, I'm pretty clueless when it comes to the more in-depth stuff like transplants. Thanks for the list of parts, not sure what I'm going to do when I get them but thanks all the same I'm mechanically inclined though and my uncles says I do better than he does, when I got the wagon I replaced the plugs, cables and the starter and that was when I was 13 or something, so I think I'll be able to do it. But my uncle thought it was a bad idea. Thanks for your input, I'll start looking for a clunker to pull the parts from. I'll probably be back once I find it looking for instruction =P

I have a '90 Loyale wagon with FWD and a 3AT, There's nothing wrong with it but it's a little slow, completely stock EA82. It takes a full 45 seconds to reach 60-70mph freeway speeds and even then I'm pushing 4000 RPMs. Every time I take it on the freeway I say "Damn I wish I had an overdrive..." and it turns out they made 4AT wagons with a %60 O/D What's everyone's opinion of the 3AT I have in there? I've heard people call it a slush-o-matic before and I'm just not sure. I mean, it IS a Subie trans so it can't be ALL that bad. Somone local is selling a 4WD 5MT Loyal wagon but my car only has 67k on it. So I figured I'd go to the junkyards around and see if I can pull a 5MT from a wrecker Loyal if I find one and do a transplant job. What kinds of things need to be done to my car to convert it to manual, how much would it cost and is it even worth it, or a labor of love?