ThomasJacobs

Thanks. I have used both of these sites. However, if you do not know the part number, or the item is not straightforward, neither will help. For instance, in the case of the fuel hose, I had to speak to a dealer to get the part number, then I could enter it into the part number input on either of these sites.

Is anyone aware of a site or means to see a diagram with part numbers labeled? In other words, if I have a part number for a fuel delivery hose (0951dg200) and wish to confirm that it really is connected to the inlet of the fuel filter - is there a location that would show me a diagram of the fuel system for 2000 legacy outback with this part labeled? More generally, without going to a dealer parts counter, how does one usually get part numbers, particularly if you wish to order parts on-line? The service manual does not label them. Thanks. Tom

Thanks very much for the replies. I have one follow-up and one original I neglected to ask. 1. Is it recommended to reprogram the ECM each time a tune-up is performed or will it ultimately learn on its own? 2. The service manual directions for replacing the fuel filter specify that first the fuel pump relay connector should be disconnected (lower of two circular connectors underneath the dash on driver's side) and the car run until it stalls to reduce the pressure in the system. However, when I do this the car never stalls. It runs rough but never stalls. Does this mean I should simply skip this step or is there some benefit to doing this anyway? Thanks again. Tom

Friendly_Jacek, I have finally completed the tune-up and located the Oxygen sensor. While the car is running much better, I am now writing to ask a follow up question to your post. Was there a Subaru special tool for removal of the the Oxygen sensor that you decided not to buy when you purchased the special oxygen sensor wrench WITH OFFSET from Advance Auto? There is not an Advance Auto nearby that I am aware of. Is this a standard type tool I could purchase at a NAPA or Pep Boys? Any other suggestions on alternative sources to buy a similar tool? Thanks. Tom

Hi, I have done the tune up procedure three times now as the car has 80K miles (2.5 L 4 cyl). I have accumulated the following list of questions and would appreciate any help you could share. 1. Upon completion of tune-up (air and fuel filters, plugs and PCV valve) should I reprogram the ECM, particularly if the car was running rough prior to the tune-up? If so, how does one do this? 2. No matter how I try to remove the rubber hose connections to the fuel filter, I always end up having to use a vice grips over a rag to twist the connections off. In the latest case, I scratched part of the hose - not split but still a deep enough scratch to concern me even though the scratch is inside the extreme point of the metal tube emanating from the fuel filter on the inlet side. Is there a better way to do this? 3. If I were to decide to replace the rubber tubes that connect to the fuel filter (each is about 8 inches in length 1/2 inch in diameter and labeled "HP 9805 Fuel" followed by what looks like a small "DTR" inside of a triangular icon) are these considered OEM parts or does one simply buy these anywhere at an autoparts store? Any suggestions? 4. While I have replaced the plugs 3 times, I have never replaced the wires. What is the suggested interval for these as there is nothing in the owner's/service manual? How about the coil? 5. Further, and to illustrate my ignorance level, what does the term wires include? There is a square block bolted in the center of the engine from whence the four wires originate. The wires then connect to "thingamajigs" that clip onto the plugs. Which of these, if any, is the coil? 6. For replacing the wires and/or coil, is it as straightforward as it looks or is it wise to purchase any special tools? Thanks very much. Tom

Yes, I followed the directions in the service manual (gap .039-.043 in).

Thanks for the reply. The plugs are Bosch (replaced in Aug 03) but the wires are original - never replaced. I have ordered Subaru OEM plugs for this replacement (I assume those are NGK?).

I have a 2000 Outback Sedan 2.5L A/T with 80K miles. I am beginning to see rough idle and hesitation during initial acceleration (lights and stop signs, etc.) and there is no check engine light displayed. The last time this happenned (Aug 03 @ 64K miles) the dealer reprogrammed ECM which did not fix it. During my next visit I was fortunate that the regional Subaru rep was visiting and overhearing my discussion with the counter person and the rep (not the mechanic) suggested they swap out the Front Oxygen sensor which did the trick. This was the second time this had been replaced, the first as a result of a recall in May 01 @ 36K miles. I still need to complete a tune-up (air filter, plugs, PCV, and fuel filter) as this was last done in August 03, before I brought it to the dealer with the hesitation problems back then. My questions: 1. Assuming the tune up has no effect, would you suggest I go ahead and replace the front oxygen sensor again? 2. If so, is this easy to do and are there any references anyone can share on how to do it? (I have the Subaru service manual for the engine and while it mentions the front and rear oxygen sensors as part of the removal of the front catalytic converter, there is no section specifically addressing sensor replacement.) I would add that while I have done and can do the tune up myself, I do not have any electronic diagnostic tools. I am loathe to bring it to the dealer or anyone else to diagnose because I have had nothing but problems every time I have done so in the past (usually multiple visits and sometimes ridiculous suggestions in excess of $1000 each time that scare the life out of me - what if I had let my wife bring the car in, etc.) Thanks very much for any comments or advice. Tom

Odd that the spare fuses don't include a 15Amp fuse. I assume a 20Amp would be OK, then?

Thanks very much for finding that Q&A on AWD in IL. The legal notice I received in the mail only mentions the requirement that part time 4WD be disengaged and I then feared this might translate into disabling AWD. All that being said, should I ever need to use the spare, I am still unsure what fuse to use to disable AWD!

I need to have the car emission tested in Illinois and merely wish to be prepared to disable AWD if necessary. I was walking through how to do this when I discovered that the owner's manual does not specify a fuse size.

I have a 2000 Outback Sedan and have read the manual and searched the posts for an answer to what I assume should be obvious, though not to me! Is there a proper size fuse to use in disabling the AWD system? The fuse box comes with 10, 20 and 30 amp spare fuses. Anyone able to advise? Thanks!

Thanks for the replies. The security system is a Subaru system that came with the car when we bought it in October, 1999. I assumed it was factory installed but the mechanic who did the diagnostics said he discovered it was installed by the dealer. I was unsure of the importance of that fact. OBS = Outback Sport? Jeez we was robbed! OBSD is the only acronym I can kluge up.

I am new to the board and wish to say hello. I have a 2000 Outback Sedan Limited and am struggling with an ongoing problem with the security system for the vehicle. Rather than belabor you with the entire history I will summarize. If I let the vehicle sit in the sun for approximately 3 hours or more I am unable to arm the security system without the horn intermittently sounding every couple of seconds. At this point it is necessary to go to "valet mode" to lock the vehicle. However, if I let the car sit in the garage overnight, I can then arm the vehicle and it will sit happily all day in the sun without problem. If at any point after 3 hours I disarm and then rearm the vehicle I get the horn again. This first occured about 6 weeks ago, although it took several weeks to figure out what I have relayed. I took it to the dealer before I had determined how to reproduce the error and they were unable to do anything. They said I had to reproduce it before they could do anything. When I determined how to reproduce it, they were not accomodating about an afternoon appointment on a sunny day. I tried several aftermarket alarm shops but they said they could only work on aftermarket systems. Rather frustrated now, I took it to an independent mechanic who said there was no guarantee he would be able to fix it. I let it sit in the sun all morning to induce the problem and brought it in. He ran a series of 20 diagnostic tests on the security system and was mystified that the dealer had not done so. Four of the tests failed and all required a working security system control module to proceed. Thus I will pay them to replace the control module and hope that will fix it. Does anyone have any experience, thoughts or advice they could share? Thanks. Tom