The FNG

For starters, I am going to be replacing my intake manifold gaskets on my 92 SPFI Loyale PB 4x4. I have a known coolant leak there which is causing annoying isssues. Since I am also having subtle symptoms of HG issues, I was considering changing those at the same time along with valve cover gaskets. My symptoms are immediate pressure in coolant reservoir, disappearing coolant, rough idle, a very small (hardly noticeable) amount of oil in coolant and milkshake under oil fill cap (oil still looks brand new after 1000 miles though). So I should probably do a compression test to find out for sure, but I really don't want to have to take the intake stuff off and fix that to find out later that I have to do it again plus HG's. I also feel that it would almost be better to just do them since I will have done just about every other seal on the car. What do you think? I have never done HG's before, but I think it would be fun just to learn. I do not plan on taking the engine out to do it nor do I plan on resurfacing the heads. Any pointers on how to do this are much appreciated. I believe in learn by doing and sometimes that is the hard way, but he who learns from his mistakes is a wise man.

I have 2 pdf files where it gives all p/n's and procedures for this retro issued from Subaru. PM me your e-mail if you want them because it wont let me attach them here.

I have had a terrible grinding sensation on the driver's side of my 91 Loyale pb 4x4 since I bought it. I assumed this was a wheel bearing since it went away or changed as I turned the car and I really wasn't worried about it. Then about a week after I bought it, I noticed the boot on the passenger side axle (the boot by the transmission) was flinging grease everywhere in the engine bay. I looked for a tear in the boot, but I wasn't able to find one, although I did notice that the boot was creeping up a little on the shaft. I left it alone and in the meantime replaced the belts, idler, tensioners, oil pump seals, water pump, camshaft seals, and crankshaft seals. Anyway, the grinding seemed to get worse on the wheel bearing and that maybe it also started to grind on the passenger side too. Then, yesterday, I was driving home and all of a sudden, the passenger side got this terrible squealing or screaming sound (rotating metal being forcefully scraped on another metal surface) that is somewhat intermittent and only happens while the wheels are rotating. when this noise is made, it seems like the grinding noise goes away. I really don't know where to start on this one. Is there any way to check my axles to tell if they are bad without tearing the car apart?

driver's side front wheel bearing severely grinding, passenger side axle is screaming it's bloody head off, intake manifold gaskets piss coolant like a fish drinks water, and EGR solenoid isn't working.

test run...

[quote name=Concerning the photos' date=' why post a link instead of putting it in the post? I'm just curious because photobucket takes FOREVER to load on my dialup![/quote] I can't figure out how to do that. Didn't really spend time with it sorry. If you tell me how, I will start doing it though. And thanks for the info, I will be ordering it soon.

Thanks for the idea Nickolai. I found the leak:banana:, or at least a small one. I'm not sure how much damage or problems this causes, but hopefully not much. http://s748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/nickmohrbacher/91%20Subaru/?action=view&current=IMAG0488.jpg Could you tell me what gasket this is that I need to replace along with any others that I should do while taking care of this issue?

http://s748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/nickmohrbacher/91%20Subaru/?action=view&current=IMAG0485.jpg Maybe this pic can help. I did notice that when the engine was hot, it smelled like really hot or possibly burning coolant. Is it possible that the head gasket just has a very small leak and this is what is happening?

yes, Cougar, they are in slots 2 and 6, but I am sorry, in real life they are black/white. Please just take my word for it, I am not color blind. As for AK_kev_007, I agree, I think they may do something similar to that.

I edited the pictures to point out the wires. They are both definitely black/white with no other colors and are both the same gauge. I could always assume this means they are the same thing, but chances are they are not and therefore, could be incorrectly connected. 50/50 chance of getting it right the first time though.

I have a 1991 loyale that I bought recently (5spd man, pb 4x4, 220k). I recently did the timing belt kit along with oil pump seals, camshaft seals, crankshaft seals, ac and ps belts, and water pump. Since I removed the radiator to do the belts, I had to fill it back up. I used the procedures that miles fox has on youtube. Generally speaking, everything seemed to be fine at first. I drive about 90 miles round trip in my soobie to work, the store, etc. It seems like I am loosing coolant every time I drive the car. The overflow tank is at the full mark and I burp the lines every time I fill the radiator. When I turn the car on at first, I usually hear some gurgling from the heater core (air in the system) if I don't fill it up. Sometimes the car acts like it is going to overheat, so if I turn the car off and let the temp gauge fall and start it back up, everything is fine. I don't see ant bubbles in my coolant and I can't really tell, but it doesn't seem like there is any oil in the coolant, it kinda smells a little funny in the overflow tank (maybe like gas, but like I said it is hard to tell, very faint). I definitely don't have any white exhaust, and there are no puddles under the car. I do have a little bit of milkshake under the oil cap, but when I change the oil, it looks completely normal. Other than that, I have been throwing an egr solenoid code and have a little bit of a rough idle at running temp (around 500 rpms). Oh, it seemed to have this issue when I bought it, but not as bad. I have no idea where to start, I just hope it's not HG's or worse. I heard it may be intake gasket, but my luck in life says otherwise...

Hi, I decided to fix some wiring issues in my 91 loyale. Some of the wires on this connector http://s748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/nickmohrbacher/91%20Subaru/?action=view&current=IMAG0480.jpg were messed up, so I went to the junk yard and clipped a new one. I made sure that the new one had all the right wires on it and everything, but what I didn't notice was that there are 2 wires that are colored the same until I cut the one off of my car. I don't know if you can tell, but there are 2 black/white wires on this connecter. I was hoping someone could help me identify what they were and where they go to. The connector is located behind the fuse box on the driver's side. The wire that was goobered up was the large green/yellow one. Anyway, I made a best guess as to which wires went where and the car runs, but now the CE light just blinks non-stop and the ECU gives a 5 light flash (Vehicle ID?). It seems to run fine, so I don't plan on changing anything unless I find out I'm tricking the computer or something. http://s748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/nickmohrbacher/91%20Subaru/?action=view&current=IMAG0481.jpg

First of all, I've really learned a lot for everyone on this forum and really appreciate all the help you all have given me. Thanks for putting up with the endless array of newbie questions, which can get quite frustrating. So, I am having some hesitation issues with the 91 loyale that I bought a couple months back. I want to try to clean the MAF and have used the search button to find that it can be cleaned with MAF cleaner from the auto store. This is great! The only problem is that I can't find a picture of what and where it is. So, I took a picture of what I thought it was and it is in the link below. Could you help me out here? http://s748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/nickmohrbacher/91%20Subaru/?action=view&current=IMAG0478-1.jpg

I think I may have found the issue. My "header" studs are actually stripped all the way around. Somehow they are still jammed in there and holding the exhaust in place, but not tight making an insane exhaust leak and an incredible ruckus. So, once I fix that, I will see if my EGR code is still there.

Howdy, I just finished doing my t-belt kit install including new seals on main shaft, camshafts and oil pump, new water pump, and oil change. I got rid of a few trouble codes by doing that, but now, I have two new ones! I have a 1992 Loyale SPFI btw. So, I read the codes as 12 and 34. I looked them up and found that the codes are starter switch constantly on or off and EGR solenoid constantly on or off. So, are these a big deal? Any help or quick solutions would be awesome! thanks.

ya, it cam in a kit from rockauto.com, a great site for parts. I bought the Dayco kit. It was $100 plus $12 for shipping, so it was a good deal. check the site though, best prices for quality parts, not the crap ITM stuff from ebay for $65. As far as your belt, I have heard the edge of the gear for the oil pump can cause belts to break, bad tensioners (spinning like a skateboard wheel), or maybe to were too loose or tensioners weren't tight enough.

http://s748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/nickmohrbacher/91%20Subaru/?action=view&current=IMAG0467.jpg This is what caused my belt to break. The idler pulley bearing blew up. No Bueno:mad:. But it was definitely time to replace tensioners, shaft seals, o-rings, water pump, oil pump seals, etc. so, I guess it was imminent that something would happen. 230k and some original seals still.

Gonna get this done tomorrow: camshaft seals, crankshaft seal, idler pulley, timing belts, timing belt tensioners, v-belts, water pump, oil pump seals, remove/reinstall/flush radiator, change oil and filter, air filter. Estimated time: 4hrs, Reality: 6-8 hrs. haha, first time always takes longer, plus I have to clean everything. Thanks for the awesome videos Miles. I seriously would have been very lost without them.

I'm not sure I understand you. My dash is analog. The thing I took a picture of I thought was an oil pressure sensor. It has no wire attached to it. The picture looks like there is, but that is just the wire for the electric fan. So I want to know how I am able to read oil pressure if I am not sending a signal through a wire.

So I will be getting my new timing belt kit and camshaft seals tomorrow, already have the new water pump and gasket, oil pump seals, and oil filter:banana: So my question is now, what is the part in this picture? http://s748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/nickmohrbacher/91%20Subaru/?action=view&current=IMAG0461.jpg#!oZZ2QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs748.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fxx125%2Fnickmohrbacher%2F91%2520Subaru%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DIMAG0462.jpg I think it is an oil pressure sensor, but I don't know if it is. I tried to look at this part at a junk yard, but all 4 cars were missing it. As you can see, there is no wire attached to the little copper tab. Is there supposed to be one? If so, exactly where is it supposed to be/ where does it go?

Ya, nevermind. I went to rockauto and bought the dayco kit for $100 bucks. I don't even want to take a chance. If I'm going to do this, I may as well do it right. Although Dayco may not be as high a quality as gates, I think it is still good stuff. I think I will keep a set of gates belts on hand for backup though. I think the extra $40 is well worth making it home every night so i dont have to listen to the wife's bs about my pos car.

Have you ever had experience with an ITM kit or any of their parts? Since I bought the kit, I've been hearing horror stories of their belts breaking after only 300 miles or so. I am wondering if I could just use the main parts and get some better belts.

Here is the kit I got on ebay. It comes with 1 crank seal and 1 cam seal. By the sounds of it, I need to order some more seals. I would need 2 cam seals and orings and 1 crank seal, right? do I need an oring for the crank? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400176384460&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AL%3AOU%3AUS%3A1123

Ok, so I have the timing belt kit, oil pump kit, water pump, water pump gasket, and new oil filter. I think that should do it. And I assume there are procedures for component replacement and timing on the site.

So my timing belt broke the other day while I was driving leaving me stranded (with a pissed off wife-says I never shoulda bought that piece of S***). Anyway, I haven't torn it apart yet, but I have a timing belt kit on its way. The kit includes left and right side belts, two tensioners, idler pulley, and I think two cam shaft seals (not sure). I was looking at some other threads and saw that replacing the oil pump gaskets and seals as well as the water pump seal were recommended while doing timing belts. Now, I have no idea why my belt broke, but I have heard of cam shaft seizure and oil pump seizure that could cause this. I will not have the luxury of pulling the motor and hope to not pull the radiator. Are there any other things I should look at doing while changing the timing belts, etc? Also, If my oil pump is seized, can I rebuild it or do I need a new one? How does replacing the seals make a difference in its operation? If the cams are seized, where do I go from there?