The FNG

I suppose I could try that. I have a couple I grabbed from pnp last time I was there.

I suppose I could try that. I have a couple I grabbed from pnp last time I was there.

SPFI, injector looks brand new. When it's running and warm, it will idle at 1500, but the power band is nice and smooth even with the timing discrepancy.

basically the same as car in sig... I have a code 24 (air control valve) and 42 (idle switch error). I have replaced the IAC 3 times with used, but good ones. This last time I replaced the upper portion of the throttle body as well (part that the IAC attaches to), out of a good car. My timing is at 18* instead of 20*, but that shouldn't cause this. I haven't been able to check the wire harness, but I suppose that could be my issue? What are the chances of it being the CPU? Symptoms: low / rough idle on cold startup, will die if you push the gas before it warms up, runs really rich on start, begins idle at 500 and warms up to 1500 but sometimes it will idle down to 1000. I can't get it to idle at 750.

I'll check the cable. I have an extra one, too. I'll also loosen it up to see if that helps any.

It's not too tight, just took the slack out of it. I was just curious if it would be fixed with a new clutch or if there was a certain adjustment to fix it... This will be my little bros first car and I want it to be enjoyable for him to drive. I have always driven standard vehicles and this one is a pain in the rump roast to drive with the clutch the way it is.

So I just started working on a 91 Loyale 4x4 with a 5 speed trans. and 267,xxx miles. I bought it for my little brother about a year ago and it's been sitting in the back since. Anyway, I got it running the other day and noticed that the clutch pedal doesn't engage until it's almost all the way out. It doesn't seem like it's slipping or anything. I got out and tightened the cable under the hood, but all that seemed to do was make it harder to push. I have no experience working on transmissions or clutches, so I have no idea if this means the clutch needs replacement or adjustment. So, any help is appreciated!

It's ok to ask questions you don't know the answer to . If he didn't ask, chances are that it wouldn't be done properly. I would venture to say that the vast majority of people in the world do things without knowing what they're doing; mistakes are made, lessons are learned, and if we are lucky enough those lessons are shared here in the form of knowledge. People come here for help, not to be burned.

The gurgling I may contribute to not properly "burping" the coolant system. I just honestly feel like you really didn't need to pull the heads, but since you did, I would get a fel-pro head gasket kit HS9392PT2 and maybe some valve stem seals. I would get OEM Intake manifold gaskets and an OEM thermostat (OEM means Subaru, not the OEM brand).

I hope this applies to the current situation of the topic: From my **real** experience with some of the issues you are having, for things such as intake manifold gaskets and thermostats, use ONLY Subaru OEM. Trust me and spend the extra few $$ upfront and save time and frustration. I would suggest that your temporary weird over-heating problem is your thermostat (ask me how I know). If you are having coolant issues that are not revealed in your compression test, it may be your intake manifold gaskets. Subaru gaskets are not too expensive ($12 iirc) and they are much higher quality.

I had this problem and the tops pulled off the bottom. I ended up just getting a new head.

So as the title says, I'm buying a 2006 outback. It is an auto with the 2.5l engine. Has only 41k on it. Could you please help me make sure I'm getting a solid car? What are things to look for with these years? Is this the notorious 2.5 with head gasket issues? I'm used to the older gen stuff, and this will be my first newer gen soob. Thanks for any help!

Agreed with above.

Arou you sure it's not a loose heat shield?

HTI fab or something like that used to make some for $125 I think

Mine did this too, at first the longer ones worked, but they stripped out easily too. Unfortunately, I just left mine like that due to lack of time and general laziness (I don't feel like redoing my t-belts and pulleys just to fix a small bolt). It leaks a lot of oil, so I would recommend doing something about it. Or you could use some of that Lucas oil stuff. That stopped all my leaks.

I just bought a 90 Loyale manual 5spd pb 4x4 for $200 (score!). Put new timing components, filters, oil and fixed the cross-threaded spark plug. Still needs a timing adjustment, but it is throwing CEL codes 24, 31, and 34. I know how to fix code 34, I've been through that on my other Loyale. I couldn't find anything on the other 2. Any advise? 24- air control valve or circuit 31- throttle sensor or circuit TIA

I have a hard copy and I might be able to find a digital copy, but I will have to let you know tomorrow

You can get the car up to temp and then throttle it a little from the engine bay. That should pressurize the system and help you find the leak if you are not certain. Just be careful.

I had a Ford Ranger once that had the fuel filter get plugged up with dirt. When I got it replaced, I must have had a lot of dirt and debris get flushed through the fuel system because it threw an engine code. I used a bottle of techron and within a few miles, it was cleared up and it ran great. Now, I like to use seafoam at every oil change, but I don't think it is that necessary unless it is an extreme situation. I like to think of it as a preventative item that doesn't hurt anything if it is not really needed.

ok, maybe I will give it a few days then. cool pic by the way

it was a brand new Beck/Arnley pump. By brand new I mean less than 24 months and around 5K miles. Good news though, it is still under warranty and I still have the old one that is good.

sweet...thanks for raining on my parade eeyore...good to know

So, I replaced the water pump about 5k miles ago and now it is leaking. It looks like it is coming from a little hole on the bottom of the pump... Anyone know anything about this?

It's easy to check the disty timing in these. Set the flywheel to 20*, Look at the passenger side cam sprocket, the little dot should be at approximately the 10 o'clock position. If the dot is low on the right side rotate the engine a full revolution to 20* again. Take the 2 bolts out that snug the disty down(8 mm wrench size) unplug the elec. connector and lift the disty straight up and out. Once you have the disty out look at the gear on the bottom, it has a little circle dimple in it (Not the place where the roll pin that holds the gear on goes). Line the little dimple up with the arrow that is on the aluminum at the bottom. This will point the rotor where the num 1 plug wire goes. Take a marker and make a slash on the top lip where the center of the rotor is pointing. Drop the disty back in and make sure that when it is all the way down the center of the rotor is lined up with your little marker slash (The rotor twists as the disty goes down because of the gear). Put the bolts back in and snug them down. Then when you put your cap back on, the plug wire for the num 1 cyl goes on the terminal that is right at your marker slash. From there you can set the rest of your plug wires in their proper place. Plug the elec. connector back in and your timing is set. Best of luck to you, hope you get the little fella running again. This what I used to get my loyale back in running order. I guess like Miles said, your timing should be set to 8* BTDC. One other thing I'm not so sure about is the green plug for timing advance. Does the carb model have that? because that would be important to use.