The FNG

before I throw in my $.02, how different is it to do on a carb vs SPFI? I had issues with my SPFI after the headgaskets.

www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129404-pulling-engine-etc-through-the-eyes-of-a-noob/?hl=%2Bthrough+%2Beyes Check this out. There are tons of pics and it is very well documented.

I'm pretty sure someone made a photo documentary on how to do this. I will try to find it

I got the cam o-rings from fel-pro or in one of my kits from rock auto. They worked for me, but who's to say they wont fail early? Anyway, you shouldn't need to go to the dealer for that one. So far, the only 2 things I would say you HAVE to buy from subaru are intake manifold gaskets and a thermostat. That's all I've come across, but others on here have more experience.

You could always buy a Loyale and the 3" lift I just put up for sale:rolleyes: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=138368

Just wanted to update the thread. I found that if I wiggled the connector with the lights on, the headlight dimmed intermittently. I unplugged the light, cleaned the connections, and plugged it back in. As of now seems to have fixed it. Thanks for the input.

(Driver's headlight)

I would jump straight to the alternator, honestly. If I am correct, it should read just higher than 12VDC (between 12.7VDC and 14VDC) between the output post and ground. Because voltage is potential energy (like water pressure in a kinked hose) it should always remain constant at the posts, although amperage may change in a completed circuit. I guess what I am saying is that varying voltage at the output of the alternator would indicate a bad alternator or internal voltage regulator. Also, instead of paying $70 for one, buy one from somebody on the board for much less Plus you will know it's good. A couple more thoughts, make sure to clean your grounds and connecting points with a wire brush or something similar and check your alternator belt for hard slick surfaces and proper tension, it could be slipping.

Ya, I questioned them when I bought it and they swore to me it was the right one... I ended up making one from a piece of rubber.

Yup, I believe you are both correct. And I would not recommend using it. I lost almost all of my coolant after it blew out in less than 5 minutes. Definitely not for the Loyale.

Has anyone used an OEM thermostat gasket that looked like this? I have always used the flat paper style ones. I have never seen the rubber o-ring style one. Just curious.

sounds like a good idea. maybe I read his original post wrong. Thanks!

Try running without a thermostat. Not really recommended, but it will give you less issues with overheating and will allow you to troubleshoot a little more.

Here is what it used to look like before I did some additional trimming to the fenders and front valence thingy.

My goal was to use the same air cleaner box and SPFI intake boot. I wanted to design a low cost tubing that just came up from the fender or something instead of replacing filters every oil change or more often.

That' s what I've got on my loyale with a 2" lift. (215r15's) BFG KM2 . They will rub but with enough trimming they will fit. I can post pics maybe tomorrow if you need them.

I definitely have a lot more faith in my soob. I think any other vehicle would have been totaled at that speed.

I drive about 30 miles a day on dirt roads and I noticed that after about a month of driving there was a ton of dust and dirt in my air filter box. It seems like the fender well is not the most ideal place to suck air, especially with large off road tires and a dusty road. I was wondering what would be the best alternative would be using the stock air box on a Loyale with SPFI. I have seen some crazy snorkels that go up to the roof and some sweet hot-air cone filters (not). I was thinking of some sort of snorkel that went out the fender and up to the windshield just to get out of the dust. I have searched a lot for pics and other ideas, but I really haven't come up with a lot. It seems like people talk about it a lot and never go through with it, picture links no longer work, or somebody convinces them it's a bad idea. I understand that too many turns or sharp turns or too much pipe can have negative side effects, but if I was to do a short snorkel of 3" pipe, how could that hurt air flow?

Bumper pics:brow:

Thanks for the tip. I found the issue. The little coolant hose in the front of the intake manifold (coming from under the throttle body) had a tiny little hole in to tha was squirting coolant out.

So, I could use some help. I hit a deer this morning going about 65 mph in my Loyale. After I hit it, the engine hiccuped and threw a cel light for a second and then it went off. I stopped to assess the damage and noticed the temp immediately went up and slowly crept towards the red mark. I checked the coolant level and saw that the overflow tank was pty, so I filled it up. I also noticed some coolant on the under side of the engine support right below the head. However, I did not see any other signs of leaks, nor could I tell where it was coming from. The engine was getting hot and I needed to get off the road, so I started driving and noticed the to dropped just below half on the gauge when I was driving so I drove all the way in to work (another 30ins). I let the engine cool off and went to check it. The coolant was still on the crossmember with no obvious leaking point and I was about 2 water bottles low on coolant -32oz I think. I have not started the engine since, but it seemed to run fine with no noticeable loss of power. I will check into it more a little later, but any help would be nice. I also have a stout bumper, so the only noticeable cosmetic damage was done to the turn signal. No radiator damage or anything.

Hell of an idea. If I'm ever up that way I'll give you a buzz.

It's not really a "ping", more of a "tick" or a "tap" I am assuming that would be a ping from improper detonation. Am I wrong?