The FNG

Ya, it's got a little ping. It's been a project for so long that I just want to drive it. I think I may wait to fix it for now.

I had to do some work on my loyale recently which involved removing the timing belts. I reinstalled them and went to set the timing, but can't get it better than 18* BTDC even after redoing it to check that I wasn't 1 tooth off. I probably still am 1 tooth off. Are ther any issues or foreseeable problems with running the engine this way other than obvious performance losses?

I have had issues with napa and car quest thermostats not working. For some reason, there is an issue with them in these cars, best of luck to you though. I also had the radiator issue before I got a good oem thermostat.

Spend the extra few bucks and the oem from the dealership. Trust me. Do some searching in the forum and find my thread on the differences. It is worth the time and extra few bucks.

Ok, I found it. It is off of my 91 loyale with a 5 spd manual trans ea82. This should be the same water pump that on your GL. It was working when I pulled it from the car, I was just doing some TLC. It has a little surface rust on the impeller, but I think that is because the car sat for a while before I bought it. I could clean it up and ship it out to you if you want to make an offer?

Just make sure you have a ND disty too

Hey I have it, but I can't find it so I'll post when I do if you still want it.

I didn't claim any performance increases. He mentioned that he was trying to run a ditsy with an aftermarket coil. I was just trying to give some help on a safer way to do it. I chose to run an aftermarket coil because it fits my application better. I found my oem coil leaking oil. I also drive 30+ miles of dirt road a day, so I chose the high vibration epoxy filled coil.

Not trying to undercut you Shawn, but I have one off of my Loyale that is used but good. If you still need one. I can pm you some more info on it later tonight if you are interested.

I think if you use an aftermarket coil it is best to use a ballast resistor. Otherwise I guess you run the risk of frying stuff. I know I had to use one with mine. I run the MSD Blaster coil with the apoxy core.

Haha be glad you didn't buy it. That car has been nothing but issues for me! But regardless I still love it. It is the reason I am on the board. I don't mean to steal the thred...

I think if you set your drivers side timing belt so the pulley is up, then rotate the crank 180 until your pass side pulley is up and the drivers is down, then you rotate the crank until the passenger side pulley is at about ten o'clock. That should put you at TDC with the disty pointing at the #1 cylinder. This is assuming you have already set your timing belts. Assuming it is an SPFI engine, ignition timing should be set at 20* BTDC.

I know I already said it, but your belts are probably 1 tooth off. My Loyale did that not too long ago. It would run great at idle, but kinda crappy on the throttle with a little knock. All it takes is one tooth. In my case I run with the timing belt covers off, but I still couldn't get a good angle to see the passenger side timing belt cam pulley. I ended up dropping the radiator and after that it was clear I was 1 tooth off..

If you have a decent Internet connection, go to YouTube and watch the video series by miles fox called "the art of Subaru maintenance" and it is one of the later videos ( #08). It is exactly how it should be done. However, I do not believe that the engine will even run with one side 180* out. My guess is that you are a tooth or two off on one of your cam sprockets. One tooth will make enough difference that it will run like crap. I'm also nearly 100% sure you have SPFI, so if you have a timing light you can easily check timing. It should be 20* BTDC iirc.

I think if your throttle cable is only holding it a little open, then it should only rev up a little, not WOT. If that was the situation, then the second you tap the gas, it would be balls to the walls with no in between.

I have the 28" KM2s on my Loyale mounted on 15" rims.

Just an idea, maybe not a good one though.

You could try cleaning the MAF, but I don't assume that is the issue. Did you check the plug wires when you replaced the plugs? How about the distributor cap or rotor for corrosion? I had an issue with corrosion in my coil at one point too...Check the air filter??? Hopefully someone can give you more precise judgement on the situation.

The one I pulled out had absolutely no varnish on it and I am expecting the same for the others. I think there is a little lip on the steel sleeve they sit in and that is what they are held up on. I will try compressed air, but I have little hope for that. I am scrapping the head, so would there be an issue with grinding down the sleeve?

Just gonna throw this out there...people are going to need more info. In order to help you they will need to know what year it is and probably some info about what type of setup you have (I don't know if all GL's are the same). Pictures are always welcome and can be very helpful.

I've heard about them, but if they don't have any in stock, then it doesn't really help me unless I can send them the entire head as my cores since the lifters are stuck. But as far as getting them out, it sounds like the pull and pray method is what most do??? I haven't had too much luck with that in the past...

I was able to pull one out. It seems like all the lifters are good, they never ticked and they all spin freely in place. Anybody have ideas??? I need to get these out because I really don't want to buy new ones.

I have an EA82 SPFI head I need to remove the lifters from. How are they held in the head and what is the best way to get them out?

I'm sure that this question has been asked a million times, but I need a quick verification. Are the any differences between the carbed and spfi heads? Can I swap in a carbed engine and just bolt on my spfi intake, or do I need spfi heads?