The FNG

I kinda thought that if coolant was in that cylinder that the burning coolant could cause a white residue. However, this is a first for anything this heavy so I really don't have experience with it. I would assume it was an internal gasket leak. I was building pressure immediately in the radiator and there was a small trace of coolant in the oil and oil in the coolant. I don't know, it just seems a little weird. The original plugs were black and the new ones are white. The only thing I did between changing the plugs was replace the intake manifold gaskets and drive about 50 miles.

Ok, so I finally got started on gracefully ripping my engine apart to do my head gaskets. I pulled off the passenger side head off and found that my spark plugs (less than 1 hr of run time) and valves were bone white. The piston heads have typical carbon build-up and I really don't see anything non-typical (cracks between valves). What does this mean? I will be able to post pics tomorrow.

If this can reasonably be done, I think it would be a great alternative. Keep us up to date.

Sorry but I've gotta do this......FelPro and Cortex are not Subaru OEM Now that's out of the way, what are you torquing to and how are you doing it?

Holy badassness

Also, PK Davis is no longer making lifts (for a while now). I would suggest SJR (scott in bellingham) for lifts.

I had this happen when I installed my cd deck. There are 2 power wires that need to be flip-flopped. I can't remember which ones, I think it was a red one and a yellow one.

Nice. I like the thinking. With the 90amp alt, how much load can it handle? I assume whatever I throw at it (2 sets of hellas, brights, and sony deck) without an issue.

Has anyone had experience swapping alternators on their EA82 cars? I know of a GM swap and a Nissan Maxima swap. The way it sounds, the Nissan alt. is easier to swap in, but is not as powerful as the GM. It may only be a 5 amp difference, so I don't think it will be all that noticeable. I do live in a rural area, so the GM alt would be easier to find, but I'm not sure I have the tools to fab any brackets. Please share your experience or thoughts. I have read some threads on these, but I just wanted some personal opinions on the matter.

yup, this is the cheapest place. Also, I bought this kit and another, Dayco I think at $120, and compared parts. I am a little skeptical of buying the cheapest parts. I like to believe you get what you paid for. But comparing the kits, I found the bearings on the tensioners and idler were the same. The ITM kit actually came with some seals, but not all of them (stupid) which was kinda nice. Moving on to the belts, I really couldn't see any difference at all. I went ahead and used the more expensive kit and kept the cheaper one for a backup. If I had to recommend one though, I would have to say the cheap ITM kit from ebay.

Nice project. Where did you find that first diagram? Having that would have helped me tons a while back (at least would have saved some hair pulling). Thanks for posting it.

Dude, that seriously sucks, but holy ************ that's awesome in a bad way.

If you need to do timing belts and what not, I think it would be best to do everything at once. Since I assume you still have the covers on the belts, I think the only way you can do the job is to remove the radiator. If you are in it that deep, you may as well do it all. As for the lifters, I have read that they get jammed up and may need to get replaced. I am not really sure about that though. And yes, the first time you do all this, it will take longer, a lot longer, probably all day. But it is worth doing it and if you need an idea of what to do, look up the art of subaru maintenance on youtube videos 5-8 i think.

Just saw another one of your posts. Are you using FelPro or B/A Head Gaskets? FelPro are not supposed to need a retorque and are the recommended gasket on the board here.

My $.02 is this: If you really can't stand the noise, just replace the oil pump seals. This is literally a 30 minute job (I think). If the old engine runs, let it run and directly address the problem the first time, especially on these EA82's. If you use seafoam, you are potentially opening up a large can of worms and f-bombs. This is because of the build-up they have accumulated over the years. As tolerances increase due to normal wear and tear, they get replaced by gunk and carbon build-up that keep them running. Get rid of that and you have tolerances that begin to increase beyond what the engine can support and you begin to develop issues that can only be reasonably fixed by an engine replacement (or an EJ22 upgrade:banana:). I would do a little research on TOD or tick of death and how to get that resolved before I would consider the route you are trying to take. So back to my opinion, waste the oil, replace the oil pump gaskets and o-rings, and see if that fixes it. other options may be available, but I believe this to be the general solution. If you are really against wasting $15 of oil, wait until 3k miles is up and then do it.

100% correct. The OEM one weighs about twice as much too. Seriously, I think we buy these cars because we are cheap (at least I did). A $20 part is worth buying if it fixes the issue. Actually, if you want to be stubborn, go buy the cheap one because I love saying "I told you so!":lol:

yup, what GD said. And learn from my mistake and buy OEM (that means from the dealersip --Fuji Heavy Industries) the first time. A thermostat from NAPA/schucks/car quest, etc may cost $10, but an OEM one is only $18. If you don't want to replace it twice, do this one right the first time.

If you are talking performance mods, then hell no:lol:. If you need a new one because you broke yours somehow, go pull one at your local yard.

Accidentally posted this in the for sale section yesterday, I'm not really sure how that happened...I don't really plan on doing this, but I have read a few threads regarding Soobs without thermostats or their owner's taking them out. What are the negatives of this? Correct me if I am wrong, but it seems that all the thermostat does is prevent coolant from entering the engine block until it is at operating temp. I don't see that being an issue unless it was winter time when it would take forever to heat up and you may not get heat from the heater core as well. Otherwise, I really don't see a need for one with as much of a pain they are. On the other hand, why would it be there if it was not necessary ?

I found the sequence for installing head bolts and their torque specs in some old Subaru files I have, but noting on removing them...Also recently read something about a special Subaru socket:confused:??? what is that about?

You never specified 4wd or not, but regardless this thread should be of some help http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=112226. It is posted in the USRM under the tranny and axle part. Have fun.

Kinda in the same boat as you. So, you have an EA82 probably single point fuel injection (SPFI). It is a pretty easy engine to work on from my experience, although I have really not had all that much experience with them. I am going to rebuild mine, as I don't have the money to buy one in great running shape, and I definitely can't afford the EJ22 upgrade right now. It can be a tough choice, for me, I just want mine back on the road asap and for as little as possible.

ya, ************ happens. Hopefully this is not as much of a PITA as it seems to fix. Is there a special sequence to remove the head bolts and put them back on?

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0513807 From Rockauto.com and they quote $50.79 I am not sure, but it does not look sealed. It says it is for 4wd rear (you didn't specify) and it is the all in 1 bearing.

I have never let it overheat, but I can't say that the PO never did. It has had this issue since I have owned it. I would say that more often than not, the motor tries to overheat, but I turn the engine off. Then if I let it sit, it drives cool, but has the swirling sound and pushes coolant into the overflow. Did the compression gas test and it failed:-\, so I ordered the FelPro head gasket set on Rockauto. Thanks for the help everyone! I guess this was just a small leak that was not so recognizable.