TajMan

NICE following this now. Cool resto, good work done. I've been spending my time on a '78 Datsun 200SX I have, just done some rust repair it needed on driver's floorboards etc, trying to repaint the car red right now. I know if I had gotten as deep as you have on the Sub with sandblasting etc, I wouldn't be as happy with what I'm working with, this car had been previously wrecked and the front-left corner of the vehicle had been welded in from a different 200sx, under-fender and half way across to center of radiator area.. still some crinkled steel where it was welded in to rest of body/trans tunnel/drivers floorboard. I'm sure handling will never be 100% because of this, shame. I AM stripping down a '77 Lancia Scorpion which I have for total blasting of the bare frame for a custom build from scratch! Going with a mitsubishi turbo 2.3 stroker engine for that (eventually)

I cleaned the transducer UFO looking thing with carb cleaner until it looked like no more carbon deposits coming out of it then with air, I'll do my best to further clean those throttle vac ports and any other related vac ports I can see... What is the vac line for which goes down from throttle body to the other solenoid valve under the passenger side intake runners (looks similar to the EGR vacuum solenoid I just replaced).. what does that solenoid vacuum switch do? hard to access that to replace that line without removing intake manifold..

Hey guys, I've got a 1996 Legacy L sedan. 200K on it total I bought this poor old car for cheap with a bad transmission. Long ridiculous story later I had the car finally together with a 135K mile used auto AWD trans new CV axle etc. All new shocks/struts. I've put way too much time/money into it over $2K total, a car I intended to fix and flip, and its still got a horrible old body needs a bunch of bodywork and new paint job.. SO I recently sold it to a good friend of mine in need of a 2nd vehicle for him and his new family, a situation mutually beneficial to us both. One last main problem is a check-engine light that keeps coming back on, P0400 EGR code! I've changed the main EGR valve out with another, cleaned out EGR tube and replaced vacuum lines, and just recently replaced the EGR vacuum solenoid ($100 part my buddy bought for his new car). Code-keeps-coming-back. Ok we both know what the car is- what-it-is no sugar coating, good old running workhorse and even if the engine is 'on-its-last-leg' with over 200K miles and using over a quart of oil every 3,000 miles between burning off & multiple engine seal leaks... It still runs totally solid and makes power like a stock 2.2 does through the whole rev range! No reason to kill it yet.. But my buddy needs his car registered now and I'm not seeing options.. This morning I have the drivers wheel and hub off the car, fixing a nail puncture in tire and I have wheel bearing/seals to be pressed into that hub (which was a junk-yard hub I installed and wheel bearing seems to be bad) Local tear-a-part junk yard has two 96 legacys and two 97 legacys in the yard, i was going to investigate see which ones weren't GT's and if any decent lookin 2.2L engines with EGR may be worth pulling? What other options or testing do I have left to see if I could get EGR code to stop and leave the engine that's in it for now, pass I/M inspection?

not easy to drill out, car has high mileage and bolt was completely rusted siezed in there. I'm sure that new used hub was the cheapest easiest fix. I almost want to remove balljoint, heat up hub with torch, and use bars/sledge hammer to try and close the gap where pinch bolt squeezes a bit. But i know wheel bearing and rubber seals don't like to get too hot heating up with torch..

you understand, the 'joint' itself inside the grease boot is tight. Its the mounting of the entire balljoint assembly that rests inside the hub which is loose (but the emergency function of the pinch bolt through the 'divot/collar' on the balljoint assembly is working properly and keeping balljoint from popping out completely, this is where 1/8" of play is allowed) Even if someone used a screwdriver hammered in to open the gap bigger and remove old balljoint, a properly tightened pinch bolt should close back up any gap no problem correct?

Cost $7.50 30 days wholesale closeout at rockauto, might have been moog, very well may have been something different. I know, duralast is $20-something at autozone, OEM part is like $43 If I use a screwdriver between the lower control arm and hub, I have 1/8" of play up and down between the balljoint and hub

I have a '96 Subaru Legacy, just had a shop install 4 new struts. During the install, the pinch bolt had snapped off which holds the passenger side balljoint to the hub. This required a new hub from a junk yard car as the easiest fix, along with new balljoint. I got a hub from another '96 but it was from a non-abs car (my car had ABS originally, just not working). I told shop to install anyway and eliminate that wheel's ABS sensor. They installed it with new balljoint that was cheap from rockauto.com I have found, that new balljoint on the passenger side is loose between the balljoint/hub! Even though the 14mm pinch bolt is completely tight. I called Subaru parts desk, and they told me the two versions of hubs are different, but the balljoints and wheel bearings should be the same. So why is my new balljoint loose? Is the most likely possibility that rockauto.com sent a cheap/wrong part that is close but slightly smaller?

well I gotta move on from this car badly, sadly. too much I got going on right now.. but its for sale on local KSL classifieds.. (anyone on the forum feel free to contact me, but I don't see enough local interest on this forum.. someone on KSL will surely snag it sooner than later)

I don't know, that's just what I'm saying, if you're interested in the whole car AND you want to work out something if a car is gettings transported one way anyway. My motorcycle engine is around Eugene, OR I need to get to Utah.. I think the car would be for sale for $900 complete as-is including the rims that are on it. Car also has aftermarket exhaust..

a few mods at least, boost gauge.. factory style subaru intercooler over the engine..

What heads is it running now? What are the best heads to chose for a performance boosted EJ engine build, and don't you need to run the intake manifold and basically the engine wiring/ECU setup from the car matching the heads you use?

haha thanks lol I've worked for enough liscensed dealers in utah as a salesperson, I know all the DMV possibilities.... (and the car wasn't even titled in his sisters name last but thats not the point and not even the main reason I would chose to part this car..)

You in washington? I'm around Salt Lake City, Utah AND I have a motorcycle engine of mine that was rebuilt that I need to get picked up in washington sometime soon...

well make me an offer, not to any extreme trying to push this stuff yet.. apparrently the trans was slipping a little, but was still driving..

hehe, nice Yeah I may part out the whole car including engine, but its nice to know my options. Reason being I have lots of cars and lots of projects, but no spare Subaru I'm trying to build to keep right now... and I am currently building a mitsubishi 4g63 2.3 stroker right now for a custom race car build of mine. If I got a Sub I wanted to build/keep as a daily driver to use this (built) ej22t engine in, it would be something like a '98 2.5RS body..