TajMan

Yeah its interesting, I have a few Fiat X1/9's and a Lancia Scorpion, they have coolant tubes running from the radiator in the front to the engine in the rear, nothing extra besides an old 70's design typical looking water pump run off a V-belt pulley on the side of the engine. Never a problem I guess. I'm planning custom engine-swaps also on a couple of those cars in my future.. Yeah, in for new updates with your awesome Sub!

^nice, about the most perfect ideal CR for a boosted motor, I have a turbo car at 8.5:1 CR

What difference does the frankenmotor give with the EJ25D bottom end vs. the EJ251 bottom end? (with 91-95 2.2 heads, porting, cams, & headers) I.E. - which one gives a higher compression anyone have approximate CR numbers?, & 91 octane would be required with said block?

hah yup thanks

Spring 2011: recent:

I was told once the shortblocks are pretty much the same, between the DOHC 2.5 and the later SOHC 2.5, I found once though, that they use different oil pumps at least!

well said

I think general improvements can be made all around, as mentioned.. couple things to note: -if engine is being fully rebuilt anyway, minor improvements can be made with mild porting around areas of the cyl heads before they finish getting rebuilt w/ valves installed. You just gotta search for the right pics/tips for porting those DOHC cyl heads.. -exhaust improvements can be great, but I wouldn't do a cat-back and overlook the front, I would definitely try to re-design/finish the best cyl head-back exhaust completely. Exhaust exits from two round ports next to each other on each head, consider some long-tube (hopefully equal length) headers ideas..

^Yeah buddy, that's because of the extra rotating mass with different flywheel/pulley, all the extra weight will do is keep the engine from dying easier (even allowing car to move with clutch release and no throttle input), IT WILL NOT CREATE ANY MORE TORQUE! I'll let others chime in on actual numbers, because I just know approximations not specifics... BUT, you can gain a little reliable HP, if you are building the engine yourself... with the right mild porting in areas that could use it, with a healthy tuned aftermarket exhaust system, and even performance cams are an option... Heck even(especially) after all that, you can install a wideband 02 sensor and a SAFCII and tune just a few more ideal HP out of the engine. All without forced induction or NOS.

Oh WOW! NICE! Nate Wade Subaru here in Salt Lake has an old 360 like that but all restored, and a 2G Brat, in their showroom inside..

ahh yes, the first one I painted black right

The full body stripe decals look great!

ahh... ea81 car rust repair just don't let the repair turn into a long-extended process. Make some bold moves cutting/welding a big area, maybe can-of-foam to fill body cavities, fiberglass-reinforced bondo is also great stuff for final sealing up of holes etc in welded up areas... then call it good enough and put your car back together. That floor stuff breaks off the easiest when its cold, and maybe with a hammer and chisel/screwdriver.

I know engine is small and cat is far back. When I got the project, car had no cat or muffler on it and bad exhaust leaks. I'd say we care that the cat smoothes out the exhaust more than its effects on converting emissions gasses, LOL

(he had that white powdercoated on seat frames)

I didn't spray down the actual red or clearcoat paint, I have a pro mexican for that painting video: http://smg.beta.photobucket.com/user/TajMan/media/mexi-spray_zps1446f6cf.mp4.html mistake #1: decal was not included in kit (its ok, pooparu reimbursed me) ^I layed down those decals with a guy, with soapy water like doing window tint for perfect placement. Was a huge job. Now out of the booth! tailgate looks amazing, too bad this decal mistake needs fixed: white line painted on, tailgate re-cleared, but... Mistake #2, white paint bled into clearcoat tailgate finally fixed correctly, after a line of red paint this time and MORE clearcoat over all. Looks good.

I painted this car for Zeth a fireman down in Provo Utah! Not even just that, I completely crafted a new exhaust- fixed broken bolts- all that kinda stuff. I also installed new brake shoes/pads, changed clutch cable, changed a door hinge, etc. Reproduction Brat decals from pooparu (B&R Sign & Design in Denver, Colorado) looked like this when I started (sun-fade, paint chips, etc were just focused bad on the drivers front fender and front of drivers door) exhaust video: http://smg.beta.photobucket.com/user/TajMan/media/exhaustbrat.mp4.html doing a few things at once The tailgate was dented up pretty good in the middle, otherwise the car was pretty straight propane, and propane accessories more...

I didn't see any mention about the lug nuts yet. You must use Pug lug nuts, the seat is curved not just a straight taper like typical lugs. Hard to source if you don't have them. I got a couple on eBay once from France which were different but more workable than anything else I could find.. I bought 3 sets of 15" pug rims from a guy once, drove a few hours to meet him in colorado. I used the other style on my Brat, but I like the style you are using the best.

never seen them! please post pictures of mountain grizzly decals

Love it man, I can't believe I posted your picture on instagram and you were already on instagram the_desert_fox! Love the decals, B&R sign and design did them right? now I want a car with these on them, actually I'm getting ready to painta buddy's old GL wagon and I want to convince him to go with this theme!

YEAH I want a mandrel bender, and to learn to TIG weld, and then I could enjoy building custom turbo exhaust manifolds for engines REALLY.. I have a mitsu 13G turbo right here I WAS going to fab for use on a Brat previously. I built a custom turbo kit with the same 13G turbo on a mitsu 1.5L engine, worked well, and I believe the size is very well suited for the average 1.5-1.8 4cyl engine.

Car just on the ground, but maybe these 2 pics will shed better light on how the routing goes

Yeah I'll snap you better pictures later how the piping kind of crosses over then exits out the 'driveshaft tunnel'

I finished up this exhaust for my customer I'm bodyworking/painting his '85 Brat. Same old Brat story, and with such age and rust, mostly broken exhaust studs. I was able to finally get old EGR exhaust spacers off, get broken rusted studs out/cut off until I had 2 free holes opposite each other on each cylinder head, then four m10x1.25 thread repair inserts into the cylinder heads... Then exhaust flanges could be mounted directly to the cylinder heads with one gasket each and NO EGR spacers... then I could weld out the custom exhaust from there. http://smg.beta.photobucket.com/user/TajMan/media/exhaustbrat.mp4.html Its quiet down low and race up top, sweet we love it. recycled car parts: -Eclipse turbo cat-converter (2" piping) -some Lancia Scorpion original '77 exhaust curves oohh thats rare -other parts store 90* bends & straight pipe off the shelf -7" cylinder muffler from NAPA similar to stock trusty flux-cored welder can do it all here's what it sounded like just after the pipes were merged and still no cat: http://smg.beta.photobucket.com/user/TajMan/media/exhaustbegun.mp4.html then This was good: need a solution for a secured and rubber-mounted exhaust 'hanger' that is much more tight and secure than those universal rubber exhaust hangers? Couple spare bolts, and a rubber hand-sanding block I cut up, BAM works so good

awesome