TajMan

I am using an '84 4-speed flywheel/pressure plate with a 5-speed trans, I am dropping engine in the car now (have not installed the starter yet). I expect I will need to space out the starter with washers for it to operate properly. I'm guessing that if you are using the 5-speed flywheel that matches 5-speed trans, you probably will not need to space out with washers in that case- but I can't verify that the 4 and 5 speed starter motors themselves are the same part number.. Am I remembering correct, the 5-speed flywheel has a slightly different crankshaft bolt pattern being on the ea82 engine, and for installation on the ea81 engine the bolts go in but everything slightly loose and you want to rotate the flywheel furthest clockwise or counterclockwise before tightening bolts well w/ loctite?

Well, looks like I want an ea82 intake now for use with custom conversion on ea81 with a mitsubishi turbo and megasquirt with fuel injection. ea81-ea82 same width between the intake ports on two heads huh? Easier than building a custom aluminum intake manifold, with the coolant passages integrated with the stock manifold there..

Hey! I'm in Salt Lake City, close altitude up here in the rocky mtns. I bought a mitsubishi 13G turbo I was going to install custom on my ea81 engine in my '86 Bat, I'm just installing 5-speed transmission swap now. I'd be interested to know any info about your ea81 aircraft supercharger products from your company, I'd easily go that way if you had some proven already-engineered boost products already invented. I owned some VW Corrado G60 cars previously, I had thought about using the VW G-lader supercharger in a custom ea81 install. G-lader is cool, but nowhere near the maintenance-free reliability of the ea81 engine itself. 13G turbo with oil and coolant lines run will be MUCH MUCH more reliable than a G-lader. How do you handle fuel delivery for airplanes? boosted carb of custom fuel injection like megasquirt?

The experience I had, was a 2mpg improvement with the weber over the hitachi, probably around 26-28mpg average with the weber driving the car full throttle everywhere. Also was a major improvement in drivability, better throttle response and better top-end pull with the Weber Figure out why your weber is jetted wrong and how it should be jetted? was it a complete ea81 weber 32/36 kit from JTSpeed?

Well my last post might have spoken too soon, I suppose vacuum T worked, my engine does seem to run awesome 95% of the time or more now, EVEN in the very hot heat! Pretty great for a stock Hitachi carb, smells like it probably runs rich sometimes at least, obviously not jetted perfect with my much different than stock exhaust. I do recommend the Weber 32/36 for improvement over stock carb. I do not know why it diesels for a sec when killed sometimes now when hot, even though the anti-dieseling solenoid should be hooked up, worked before.

Well I still need a proper guide on which lines to cap and which lines to vent! I thought I had it fixed, runs pretty good in most situations, but when it gets hot it has some troubles again, not as bad as before. I feel like that's what that vacuum switch in #1 pic might have been helping? I know you can run with very little if set up properly, I'd rather just eliminate that all..

so looking everywhere, I couldn't find my spare vacuum switch from pic #1. Was ready to go get another from the junk yard.. After following routing for a second (I've got this 86 engine on the ground out of the car), I decided two of those small tubes capped off coming from the bottom of those 2 black plastic multi-port things.. needed to be 'T'd together with another vacuum source from the intake manifold boom goes the dynamite It appears to run correct now testing it in the parking lot! And I kept a slight bit more eliminated, excellent. Going to test more on street now. Its great to have throttle-response, to have the engine NOT-die if you don't carefully jab the throttle accelerating from stopped/idle, to have powerband pull cleanly without spots where the power misses/stalls. I was spending all my time thinking why the ea81 needs a simple solution to purchase for common rail fuel injection custom intake manifold to be used with something like megasquirt custom engine management. THEN response characteristics of engine could be set up ideal, and would be ready for a nice supercharger/turbocharger and 200hp reliably mmmmmm

I've just gotta get my '83 Brat running right again, I've been swapping lots of carbs and engines, and ever since I got this carb on with this vacuum routing it is not set up ideal and does not run right (mostly when it gets to regular temp. or hotter). I KNOW the issue I'm having is simply vacuum routing. EGR is ELIMINATED completely, other stock emission stuff/vacuum routing has gone from different levels of deleted/returned to stock. This '83 chassis used to be an automatic, now its manual. can you tell me, do I NEED this vacuum port switch whatever it is? pic#1 (sits bolted on top of this on the intake manifold) pic#2 I have these 4 small vacuum lines capped off behind the carb there.. pic #3 What is this one? This vacuum device was only on my '83 car, not two other '84 cars or an '86 that I've had here. pic#4 that sits right back behind the pass. strut tower from factory pic #5 and lastly how about this?, factory its located by the fuel filter with the thick hose running behind the drivers' strut tower. pic #6 I'd just as soon keep as much stuff eliminated as I can, I just need to get the carb to run right. And its dieseling now, even though the anti-dieseling solenoid is hooked up! argh

From my local machine shop, I buy the ITM full engine gasket set for about $55 great deal! I bought 2 full sets and re-sealed up 2 engines, so I have 2 sets of spare headgaskets and some other stuff. That's just all the stock engine gaskets/seals, ordering valves, rings, bearings, etc would be extra/separate of course. The ITM kit covers the ea81 and even the ea81 turbo engines.

Someone should buy it off me if not maybe I'll run it sometimes on my light blue '86 that I'm keeping for now Here is a vid, doing all my work alone by hand its tough sometimes, rolling cars in-out of my shed by hand http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d3wQ7aIL5Xo&feature=youtu.be (I washed out the '86 engine bay with no engine/trans/cross-member installed in there)

few days ago I removed the mustache, car back looking closer to stock so a regular person might buy it lol someone local is interested and coming today to look at it for sale!

Yeah the info I got, was all DOHC EJ25 blocks. the early '96 EJ25's would be included, phase I engines. All DOHC oil pumps should be same, and the 00+ SOHC should be different. If I can remember I was told the SOHC pump rotor was 70% the size, positive-displacement oil pump, so maybe the DOHC pump has up to 30% more flow? Even with 'blocks' the same, oil pumps used should be different part numbers.

I had a previous dealing with oil pumps, and I learned the 97-99 DOHC EJ25 oil pump is thicker than the later 00- SOHC 2.5 oil pump. I had accidentally put a later thinner oil pump on my DOHC engine when I did headgaskets, but I found out and corrected the problem before I ever ran the engine. A correct guide with all the different sizes/differences/years of EJ oil pumps all listed would be helpful.

I'm not sure about diagnosing your specific issue, but props for the work into the ol Brat! I've messed with '97-'99 EJ25 cars, had an issue with a Phase I engine on Phase II electronics but got sensors coil etc swapped over to work. Not sure about your setup, more complicated with such a custom pieced-together build!

congrats man, freakin awesome I have custom-drivetrain car projects like that, 4 years in the making, seeing stuff like this is an inspiration for me

still need to get you more pictures, going to do more work on it today The car is listed up on local classifieds: *edit* http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=20877918&cat=656 $100 off price for members here, $2,500 / $3,100 depending on wheels/tires. Yes Peugeot 15" alloys with almost new Goodyear tires are available for $600 to anyone who wants them, 4X140 lug It is what it is, very re-built re-done car to be driven hard and abused still, will last a very long time, fair price considering all invested and how close to a more polished finish product it is to being now.

same problem again I need to be reminded which one is supposed to be the vent line from the bowl haha

It drives w/ dual range working! '84 Engine & trans seem good. Taking it to get aligned in the morning, and then I can finish out the exhaust which is 3/4 the way done exiting behind the cat now, LOUD as hell sounds awesome. I'll post some good pictures

Even the carb'd ea81 cars had some little ecm/engine computer right? What does the feedback from that 02 sensor do in relation to any engine control? Is it just tied with the EGR/emissions equipment, so there would be no benefit to having [02 sensor] if you have all that EGR stuff deleted already?

Yeah, that cut wire was a ground, fixed. yeah, black black wires together and yellow yellow together obviously, one of the yellows fluctuates a low voltage when the key is on ACC because that is the distributor pulse signal from the ecm

thanks, and ahh yes the 02 sensor So, it appears both the black w/ white stripe wires go to the coil positive, and both of the yellow wires go to the coil negative?

Hey guys, I could use some basic advice. Trying to get my 2 Brat cars back together, I had a buddy helping me rip them apart & engines out fast, but he's the type of junkyard mechanic to rip stuff out real fast and not label anything, etc... and now he's gone when he said he'd be helping and I'm left to sort this out alone. I'm getting my black '83 car together now, maybe slightly more confusing because this car used to be an automatic, was converted to 4-speed manual, some emissions equipment is missing and some wires not hooked up to manual trans (4WD light, etc, only reverse lights were working correctly). #1 ignition coil wiring: wires were not labeled when removed, I searched a thread which said the 2 wires that get positive voltage when the key is on ACC go to the coil positive terminal. Thing is, the 2 coming from the body harness get +Voltage one 12V and one about 5.6V (one yellow and one black w/ white stripe) So are those 2 coming from the body harness the 2 that go together on the + terminal? #2 the wire next to oil pressure sensor wire: Ya the longer wire has a connector on it and goes down the front of the engine to plug into the oil pressure sensor. Back where that single wire splits out of the engine wiring harness, there is a short cut wire coming out of that same loom which is the same gauge & brown color. Needed, is this just split-off from the same wire and I can leave it cut and taped off? #3 unplugged connector over the trans: It was plugged into a receiving connector of the same type, I thought right above the trans, but I can't seem to find the other end. This end comes out of the body wiring harness that comes out behind that passenger strut. I think that's about it, I have another engine with hoses on it here to compare some more vacuum routing..

Lots of work, but the engine/trans going back into the [83, black] car [drivetrain out of an 84 GL wagon] has been all cleaned up and re-gasketed/sealed so it will not leak any more oil, full engine gasket kit by from ITM engine components -oil pan gasket -valve cover gaskets -rear main seal -front crankshaft-pulley seal -new pilot bearing in flywheel, new clutch -EGR eliminated/welded up -carb gasket & water pump gasket -engine bay/crossmember and all cleaned up so no more grease/dirt, etc all parts that were not brand new were out of low use '86 car in awesome condition and original parts, that car has about 143K on the gauges- but has a tow-bar setup welded behind the front bumper and was towed much of its total miles I believe behind an RV. I already know the shifter is going to be tight no shifter slop, so that's nice. Car will get many other new parts coming together, balljoints & tie rod ends & shocks & reman'd axles & new rotors & different rebuilt calipers & new brake pads. I just need to build the rest of new custom exhaust once everything else in installed in the car again, and car will be very nice basically driving like a completely different car than what I've just put 25K miles on during the past year

right now I've got 2 brat shells in 2 storage sheds next to each other, 4 engines and 3 transmissions sitting on the ground.. '84 engine & transmission are going into my black car, they have around 135K miles I believe.