TajMan

just china racing seats the blue color is off, but they are good seats!

Hey guys recently I got this '86 Brat that was a lot more original rust free and lightly used, so sooner than later I'll be preparing my cray awesome '83 Brat to be finished and sold. I have a bunch of engines/transmissions/new parts, things are getting pulled out of both cars and swapped around/refreshed right now. I know my '83 has had a crazy life, many owners and has seen a lot, rebuilds and conversions and very effective driving. don't hate because it has a mustache bumper and headlight 'eyebrows' right now, it has gained its personality there is no simple explanation here, it just owns the road around it Engine runs hard, 191K on the gauges now I've driven it the past 25K miles, getting a new '84 4-speed dual range manual trans and many new suspension/brake/etc parts now. [yesterday I did 88mph on the freeway in 4WD on the old '81 trans haha] Will be all finished up with new black paint job, bed restored with the seats in the back & bedliner, straight tailgate & everything, underbody & everything fixed & sealed up everywhere. Expect it to be selling in the range of $3,600 w/ 13" wheels or $4,200 w/ the 15" Peugeot alloys with new Goodyear tires (guess, if all works out as planned). So this new '86 I've got here is pretty awesome and rarely newish/original. Custom gem top over the bed that is level with the roofline. Spent much of its 143K road miles towed behind a motorhome Yesterday my buddy and I got the engine/trans all disconnected ready to pull out now. This car will get the 5-speed dual range transmission swap, I'm excited for this nice Brat when it comes together, probably paint it the original blue its a nice color for a fresh job. Car has A/C, coooooool I was surprised to learn the '86 Brat no longer had the seats in the bed from the factory.

I just acquired another '86 Brat 4-speed dual range, and its current shifter is extremely sloppy bowl-of-oatmeal, not to mention it grinds 3rd gear. This car came with an additional '84 4-speed dual range trans that is *supposedly* good. I have in my possession the '83 and '86 Brat cars, extra 4-speed trans, and a 5-speed trans and everything to complete the swap. I was now going to put the un-installed '84 4-speed into the '83 hoping the shifter is relatively tight and gears don't grind like has been claimed, and i'm putting the 5-speed swap into the '86 (also hoping the trans i have doesn't grind gears). [The current 4-speed manual in my '83 I drive is out of an '81 GL Wagon and it is a 4WD single-range only. Its shifter however is about the tightest feeling shifter in any 80's Subaru car I've ever driven. 2nd and 3rd gear syncros are shot though.] I want to upgrade any fixes I can to fix shifter slop, if anyone has old pictures that were posted in this thread previously that would be nice.

nice, I like the fab

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_much_do_mattracks_cost

Only Subaru I've ever seen on 4 tracks like that, is the crazy STI for Ken Block, in Utah, fastest snow cat on earth

THAT MAKES A LOT MORE SENSE! lol It appears if I want one of those, I'd need to drop a Trooper transmission myself in the junk yard! jeez no thanks, before that I think I'm trying to get my 1.5"-2.5" ring to work..

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1076035#post1076035

Apparently this wasn't completely documented properly before, even though many people have completed the 5spd swap into an old 4spd manual car. So you have a ea81 engine in a car that used to be 4-speed, and now you want to use the 5-speed trans out of a former ea82 car. from what I've learned, here are your 'clutch parts options' option1: -use a large ea81 4-speed flywheel(recessed), but have a machine shop surface down the outside lip 'to a .815" step. That means machining down the outside edge by about .1" or so.' ea81 modified flywheel gets used with an ea82 pressure plate and TOB which were used on the 5-speed car from factory. And the 5-speed clutch disc will fit with its correct pressure plate no problem. option2: -use an ea82 flywheel AND pressure plate AND TOB all from the 5spd car. The bolt holes to the crankshaft are different than ea81, use ea81 bolts and probably rock the flywheel clockwise with all bolts slightly loose before you torque them to 55ft-lbs, should be fine this way, thanks GeneralDisorder. I believe ea81 engine bell-housing needs to be ground/clearance'd a little to keep ea82 flywheel from coming into contact, and timing marks for the ea81 engine need to be transfered/scratched onto the new flywheel. option3: -custom Isuzu Trooper TOB option like I'm finishing up, stock ea81 large flywheel and pressure plate are used with custom TOB solution, and starter motor needs to be spaced out with washers 2.6mm-4mm to accommodate for the deeper ea81 flywheel (5-speed trans starter is spaced differently, you don't want teeth grinding). 5-speed clutch disc for this option can be tricky to source, clutch center hub has to be small enough to fit inside recess of ea81 pressure plate (stock piece had 6 small hub springs). Local clutch shop finally got me the kind of custom disc solution I needed. Custom TOB solution comes from an 85 Isuzu Trooper 4cyl manual car, YOU ACTUALLY MAKE AN ENTIRELY 1-OFF T.O.B. USING PARTS FROM THE NEW ISUZU BEARING AND BRACKET FROM THE OLD 5-SPEED T.O.B. Here are my pics, you can see where I'm at. I believe if I can get some type of steel washer ring for support, this TOB should work and not risk cracking the plastic of the insert.. I will post with what I work out for my setup and how it goes.

I'm not even 100% sure how I'll rig it yet, I don't like the TQ required to press the pp teeth relying solely on an '87 plastic piece from 5-speed TOB, I'm not sure how strong that plastic is. I'll see if I can get a 1.5" inner diameter and 2.5" outer diameter ring pressed/made out of a sheet of thin steel that will be strong (stronger than plastic which might crack)

Turns out that was the correct Isuzu TOB (85 4-cyl), but you don't just use that alone, YOU ACTUALLY MAKE AN ENTIRELY 1-OFF TOB USING PARTS FROM THE NEW ISUZU BEARING AND BRACKET FROM THE OLD 5-SPEED TOB. This allows for use of the 83?+ larger diameter 4-speed Brat flywheel & pressure plate matching, to be used with the correct 5-speed clutch disc and your newly designed TOB (with the 5-speed dual range transmission). We'll see how the clutch cable alignment works, brackets can be modified if needed. And yes, this should require the starter motor bolts being spaced out a few mm with washers. I will post a new how-to thread tonight with pics, pertaining to this swap and parts choices.

Can you verify for what model the Isuzu TOB is I need? Autozone ordered one, I think it was for an 85 Trooper with a 1.9L SOHC 4cyl engine. The TOB that came looked like it could be correct the inner diameter for the trans 'snout', and the ring that presses the pressure plate teeth, however it was just a round bearing, I am not sure how the clutch fork is supposed to attach to the TOB. (stock clutch fork attaches to the TOB that has 2 flat spots/angle brackets and theare are 2 wire clips that lock the fork to the TOB) Is it possible the Isuzu round bearing would just freewheel, and the Subaru clutch fork would just press wherever against the bearing race when the clutch was depressed?

thank you

sale pending with someone else on that car, but yeah owner just said in ad it was ticking bad sounded possibly like a thrown rod good to know about possibilities though

I'm still hanging here on this.. Clutch shop here doesn't have lots of TOB's in stock on the shelf I can test and play with. Anyone know what else would fit on that larger trans shaft diameter? Isuzu TOB? Anything else I could check and compare? There are no more ea82 5-speed cars in the junk yards here right now, so nothing for me to go pull the pressure plate and flywheel I need. The ea82 TOB does press the ea81 pressure plate in too large of a circle, it would not work or else the pedal would be crazy stiff. If anyone online has a used 5-speed dual range pressure plate for sale, I would pay for it now and use w/ a new TOB! I'm not gonna spend like $300+ for another clutch kit now

ok thanks I just cut up one 84 Brat parts car, and I have my 83 Brat that still drives- waiting for 5-speed swap to be started/completed (I just need a pressure plate/TOB) And I was considering this '89 Loyale for sale for $200 with the engine problem..

Say you had an '89 Loyale ea82 mpfi car with a bad engine rattle, probably a thrown rod. Now, I have an ea81 engine from an '84 Brat. Would it be possible to swap into this Loyale and maintain all the engine electronics and mpfi that is already there? I know the slight differences between the ea81 and ea82 flywheels. Would this require anything, like a custom intake manifold to bolt the mpfi stuff to the ea81 heads?

lol just me in my apt.

I have a buddy, he owns sleepy subies performance shop in Salt Lake, he was just telling me the '91+ EJ22 actually responds very well to boost, and was even saying a factory motor was fine at like 14psi with the proper intercooler/fuel/tuning setup. A bit of a stretch?

Stock ECU, with a *SAFC II or other piggiback and a wideband 02 sensor... would allow you to tune just slightly better.. I just heard from a sub guy that a *Super AFC works well on these early 90's EJ22 motors that love boost but the frankenmotor will run pretty good and mostly as it should using the STOCK AIRFLOW SENSOR STOCK INJECTORS STOCK ECU (which were all designed for each other) similar to putting a larger turbo on a stock turbocharged car that is still running the same boost level as it was before... still has all the same fuel parameters

Yeah yeah, the ongoing story of car forums everywhere.. 250HP, at the crank or to the wheels in your daily driven Brat.. IS very reasonable with a turbo EJ motor, turbo is turbo.. IS NOT QUITE POSSIBLE with a naturally aspirated EJ motor glad I could clear that up

DO WANT HIGH HP BRAT! But after cutting my Brat parts car roof off, and seeing how much structural integrity the roof provides AND how weak lower body steel can be in an old semi-rusted state..... I believe that any car built like this needs MAJOR structural reinforcement. #1 - heavy-duty roll cage inside the cab, to the max with as many body pick-up points as possible #2 - maybe support along the 2 frame rails that run lengthwise underneath the Brat body With this covered, I think you can build the ultimate performance Brat that will last a second before something fails

subscribed I don't know about these motors, but on many cars with interference engines- you don't bend the valves with timing belt being off until it is more than 3 teeth off or so..