TajMan

thank you for that advice could you guys tell me what gauge cluster would be compatible with my 83 Brat? Do ANY clusters of that style, even from an EA82 car match the wiring plug? Or does it have to be from an 81-84? local pick-n-pull yard only has two '87 Subarus right now.. I know there were differences produced. My stock cluster was from an auto car (only 1 4WD light). My manual trans now is single-range, so that one only needs one 4WD light. I know later manuals had a 4-hi and 4-lo indicator light on the cluster...

No, shorts are not related to the ignition switch. They occur when in the run position or the ACC position. When I try to drive down the road, the intermittent short effecting the ignition coil wire causes the engine to randomly lose spark, it won't pull solid and the engine dies sometimes. My gauge cluster is bad. If anything is possibly bad 2nd, it would probably be my headlight switch.

I'll check grounds, but it just occurred to me the problem area! I'm sure of it. mechanical speedo cable goes into the back of stock gauge cluster and turns gears when the car moves! My stock gauge cluster is electrically F'd, I was already suspecting issues with electronics in the area... I feel much better now with a direction to go.

Ok I had to make a new thread, I have to find this issue. Here is a quote from me the other day: Ok so this short is CRAZY and my buddies and I can't figure it out. I figure it has to be a wire crossed between a wire in the headlight circuit, and between a sensor on the transmission or something thats a momentary on/off sensor. But what sensor is like that? The only sensor on my trans thats hooked up is for the reverse lights. This issue does not relate to the engine spinning. With the engine off but the key on ACC, the short goes away and comes back as you roll the vehicle on flat ground! This problem is insane, and it threatens the very continued existence of my Brat, in its current iteration at least. I've spent over a month solid on crazy rust repair and restoration work. My buddy and I converted this '83 Brat from auto to manual with a 4-speed out of an '81 GL wagon. HELP

man I need to find this electrical problem short makes the headlight relay buzz, and both indicator lights for the turn signals on the gauges to stay on, and makes the headlights not work, etc SHORT RELATES TO TRANS MOVEMENT/VEHICLE ROLLING DOWN THE ROAD!!! Liken on/off/on/off/on/off momentarily, faster the faster you move. all gauge needles are also doing crazy things, no gauge illumination, ignition coil wire is randomly losing power so I can't even drive down the road without spark randomly cutting out! I just need pointed towards possible SOURCE of this issue, so hard to pinpoint the problem area...

I talked to Jerry, that does the kits for the 4-speed to 5-speed swap, cool cool.. Here are pics of the exhaust I built. Last night when I was gong to go home, I found a new electrical problem that came up. I may have shifted some wires around and something crossed, or maybe my headlight relay went bad. With car running, when I turn on headlights, the headlight relay buzzes and the headlights themselves don't come on (all other lights do work except the gauge illumination lights).. AND the left + right blinker indication lights on the dash stay lit up green. If anything brings my Brat in its current form to an end, it will be electrical nightmares. :-\

I believe I'm getting 25mpg on the weber carb. My gas gauge does not work, I have ran out on the side of the road multiple times at this point, which is why I NOW carry a full 1gal can of gas with me everywhere I drive. Wiring help for the gas gauge? Is the sensor on the gas tank you can see from underneath the rear of the car the low light sensor? And there is an additional sensor, maybe goes in from the top of tank, for the gas gauge needle (level-sensor)?? I'd say 25mpg is pretty good considering my heavy right foot and awesome low down TQ with bigger exhaust (1.75 + 1.75 into 2.25" piping)

I was referring to the stock Hitachi or whatever carbs. I was pulling an '85 EA82 carb from a junk yard Loyale, I was wondering about passing emissions on my Brat EA81. HOWEVER, yesterday a couple old car guys helped me a little. Between some adjustment screws I hadn't seen/found before, and using a correct wire to make my automatic choke work, my 32/36 Brat seems to be running much better! Idling where it should be, and idle mixture close. I also installed a new PCV valve, and plumbed hoses from valve covers to PCV so that I'm not venting into open atmosphere anymore. Between everything adjusted, and if I make sure my car is nice and hot, I think I have a much better chance of passing emissions now, I'll try today. Oh yeah, I also fixed bad exhaust leak coming off both cylinder heads because of my temporary gaskets I had planned on replacing. That issue popped up a couple days ago, and those exhaust leaks right off the heads KILL engine performance. WHAT does ECS stand for? That light comes on and off randomly, at the bottom of stock TACH.

How does the jetting in the carb for an '85 EA-82 engine differ? Would this carb maybe let me pass emissions easier?(I can get it for free)

I thought I was set up right.. and I thought these weber carb kits were set up to run right on this engine or pretty damn close to correct

I had the carb off again this morning. Trying to adjust the throttle plates more closed at rest, couldn't figure anything. Built bracket for better return-spring mounting. Took the car in for emissions testing. FAILED, CO% 4.2 when the max allowed is 1.2 (was reading around 4.2 for the idle and the 2500rpm test) Could this failure be related to running rich, at both of those RPM points? Weber carb jetting? (the guy even had to fool the computer to have a lower reading when the car was SUPPOSED to be idling 800-1200rpm but was actually idling at 1500rpm) My cat is about 10-12" further back in my exhaust system than the stock cat was. Could this failure be because my cat wasn't hot enough?

Sorry no updates, my internet connection has been crappy and I can't upload pics. The exhaust I built is pretty awesome. Dual 1.75" pipes merging into a 2.25" pipe/cat/muffler. Some of the piping and the cat and the muffler came from my old '89 Chrysler Conquest Tsi (stock parts I believe). Sounds pretty deep and loud, I just need to secure or delete some cat/muffler exhaust shields to eliminate a small rattle. ..one of my issues is my fuel gauge that stopped working, and I thought the low fuel light worked.. but I ran out of gas twice yesterday so I guess not AND I suppose I'm getting worse fuel economy on the weber carb right now than best possible.. -------------------------------------------- IMPORTANT QUESTION My buddy still has this other Brat I sold him, his clutch may be going out, I need a better trans without 2nd gear grind.. WHAT PARTS ARE REQUIRED FOR THE 5-SPEED MANUAL W/ LOW RANGE SWAP? (Into 4-speed w/ low range Brat) Is a different length driveshaft required, besides the obvious trans/flywheel/clutch assy.? local junk yard has an 85 Loyale sedan with this 5-speed manual and carb'd engine.. If it requires custom driveshaft because one isn't correct from Brat or the 5-speed Loyale, then driveline shop can custom alter a Brat driveline for us.

Sorry for my ignorance, I feel kind of stupid. Carb pictures and diagrams I have aren't 100% clear. Now, for my problem. My idle speed adjustment screw is backed off, not touching bracket at any time. Return spring is holding the throttle 100% closed. My throttle plates must still be open enough, that I idle at 2,000rpm regular. How do I go about adjusting the throttle plates so they are slightly more closed when at a rest position? After I fix that, then the idle speed adjustment can help fine-tune, then I can tune in the idle mixture screw..

My return spring works, I've got that sorted. How is the O-ring supposed to work as a spring, if you have to back off the screw (further counter-clockwise) to lower idle.. and with the idle where it needs to be- the screw is totally loose! I suppose my next step is get some carb cleaner and try to identify possible air leaks.

I got a return spring working here: ..and while that seems to have the carb working more normal in ways, my idle is still wack. I MIGHT have that figured out Isn't there supposed to be a spring behind this idle screw to keep it from vibrating and changing? Mine was just riding in there loose, vibrations must have been making it move.

here is the pic I have the spring off the hitachi carb I've been trying to use, but I can't seem to find good places to attach it to..

I told you throttle cable is loose, that's not the problem. There is one weak return spring on the throttle, here I'll take a pic tomorrow morning. That is one of the characteristics of the engine now though, when revs are up they fall again slowly- regardless of being completely off the throttle and coasting in neutral. Can intake vacuum leaks cause these idle problems?

I just plugged up tons of stuff, but I think I figured it out myself for the most part. I plugged up that thing from the air injection system that was funneling exhaust into my engine bay (mostly plugged). I'm building a new exhaust soon, and I'll be able to completely eliminate that line coming from exhaust. ONLY PROBLEM I'M HAVING WITH WEBER CARB IS WITH IDLE It seems to run awesome in all instances, except idle. I have my accelerator cable loose, its not pulling on the throttle when it shouldn't. With the carb warmed up, it usually wants to idle high (2K-3K rpm), but sometimes it settles into idling low (500rpm) until you bump the accelerator. Messing with the idle speed screw doesn't fix. If idling high, unscrewing the screw will make the engine idle no lower than 1,200rpm. If idling low at 500rpm, yes screwing in the screw will get the idle up to where it should be, but then it will just be set too high in a minute.. With engine completely cold, fast idle adjustment seems to be correct. Stab the throttle once, then start engine, then wait 10 seconds.. idle will be between 2K-2.5Krpm like it should.

Duh, those things on intake manifold are just mounted to intake with brackets, nothing exposed to 'block off'. Well I got my car running, with a WHOLE lot of capped-off hoses. Maybe I will find more efficient ways to run some things later. I was having some problems with a high-idle, but I've fixed that a bit, I'll tell you tomorrow how I end up. This is like driving a TOTALLY different car than I used to have, its really phenomenal. Easy pedal effort now, quick throttle response. I like where this is headed. The exhaust is going to be another drastic change. So, no more anti-dieseling solenoid. Last time I shut my car off, it wanted to diesel for a sec. What is the fix, or do people just live with this?

So, those 2 electric solenoids on the drivers side arm of the intake manifold- one of them directly interferes with the installation of the weber carb. What is supposed to be done with its removal? Metal block-off plate where it used to exist on the intake manifold? I still need to verify for sure, which wire is the automatic choke wire, and which of the two tubes coming up at the front of the carb near the distributor go to the vacuum advance. I now see what would have to be plugged up in the exhaust to completely delete the EGR tube and related components...

Pardon my dirty engine bay, my car is a work in progress but right now I need it to run first. The first picture is the scary one! I go to start installing the Weber carb I got in the mail today, and I found out one reason my car had been running like crap lately and it also reminded me I had smelled melted plastic before at least once. Not cool brah, not cool. I don't know how that black plastic thing relating to emissions melted, but something melted it. Possible it was an exhaust leak from where the pipe connects to that cylinder head which maybe got worse recently? plastic down in this area: Anyway I had pieces of melted plastic IN the carburetor, deff. saw some of that go through my engine, yeesh. Trying to install the Weber carb now, I could use any assistance offered. I got this Brat Weber carb kit from a fellow online in Washington state, he had used it on his car for about 6 months. I deleted my charcoal canister, and I'm trying to remove as much emissions B.S. as possible now. I haven't found any instruction yet, right now I can just use common sense and cap off unused lines. What are these 2 things with electronic connections on the intake manifold? There are 3 wires going to the stock carb. I only need one to go on the automatic choke of this Weber carb. Wire on the front of the stock carb is automatic choke? (this wire easily gets kinked and breaks off on some stock carbs I've seen) Other unused wires can be cut and left hanging? this can be eliminated?: (I'm still not sure what I'd need to do to block off exhaust line) I've circled this thing, candidate for elimination?: weber carb: No fuel return line on weber carb? Just plug off my return line on my chassis?

I have a trans from another '84 junk yard car I can pull. about 150K miles. It should have low-range It should probably not grind any gears, but thats a crapshoot It will cost me about $80 if I return my other trans as a core. How much work is it, to open trans and replace syncros or something to fix the 2nd gear grind? I'm buying a Weber 32/36 DGEV carb from someone in OR for $230 shipped, very excited to get that on the car!

Well, I'm still getting a front-wheel shake, even after the new pads and after the calipers being all greased up on the slides. I guess I gotta consider the seals on the pistons of both calipers. Maybe have to end up swapping brake calipers.

Of course It would be a great sunny day everyone is out doing car stuff, and people were borrowing all 5 loan-a-tools the local autozone had, all day. I got a tool from checker-O'riley tonight, and finished the brake job tonight. Should be perfect now.

thank you sir, I'll get in the morning, and I'll possibly be able to weld up a tool real quick to help me turn those