General chaos
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Posts posted by General chaos
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ok thanks. i was wondering if some other internals would have to be swapped or not. the fsm's i have looked at. weren't as good as i would have hoped they would be. but they do show quite a bit. we are going to drive it for awhile . and keep looking either for a whole new car or a transmission that isn't outrageous or several hundred miles away.
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i found a whole car not too far away. it is 2wd though. 600.00 the crankshaft came off the crank. no title.
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yes you can get bearings from the parts store. ii said maybe the same number bearing in my 93 pump was also MAY BE used in an alternator. but i didnt waste the time to verify what i was told. my bearing is a 6202V. i still have it sitting right here all broken apart. but the number is correct. as far as them not being in the kits i saw for sale. the picture showed a bearing looking object. with one gasket and three orings. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PWR0/8832.oap?keyword=power+steering+pump+kit
i didnt want a reseal kit though.
the store tried to sell me a 6202f bearing. i think that was the number.
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both transmissions are from 90-94 legacies. i think the fwd is a 92 and my awd is a 93. and what i forgot to really say exactly is can a transmission be made from a 2wd to a awd. is swapping out the tail housing unit all that is needed?
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i'm not sure what you are getting at. but that cracked brake pad is no good.
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no that is not what the other thread said.
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can it been done. is it hard. or can it just be a tailhousing swap?
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i can change out the front carrier i am sure. cant i. even if i found one with a different ratio. would that increase my interchange options?
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i have a 93 legacy awd sedan. 2.2 auto. non turbo. what years or models do i look for a different trans? the one i found on craigslist was sold already. it was from a 98. i dont even know if it would have fit. so what will fit if i find one again?
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thats a drag. i had a one side wear on my pads. after reading this thread i took the caliper off last night and cleaned and regreased the pin. just to be safe. it hadnt worn the new shoes i had put on it a few months ago. so i guess it was only a temporary sticking of some sort. the cup went out fine last night. but never did retract. but isnt that the way it is suppose to do on these with a pin instead of bolted down? or is the caliper done?
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mine never leaked on my 93 leagacy 2.2. but the bearing went bad. i drove the shaft out of the bearing. i then went to find a kit. all the lits i were finding said it wasnt right for mine. i think. anyway. so i went on a bearing search. the parts stores couldnt get the correct bearing. when they did find it. it was higher than the kit. actually that may have been why i didnt buy the kit. i figured the kit was cheaper than the bearing by itself. so anyway i eneded up buying a used pump from the junkyard. it was from a 95. the bracket is narrower on the 93 than the 95. so i had to go back and get the bracket. i ended up paying 10.00 for the pump and got the bracket for free when i went back. i did find out that the bearing may also be used as a alternator bearing. but i didnt confirm that. it is a sealed bearing. it stops the fluid from leaking out the front shaft area.
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that is a brake pad / rotor squealer. it goes on the outer brake pad. i didnt know they came off like that. what it does is to squeal against the roto when the brake pads get to worn out. and saves the rotor from damage from bad worn out brake pads. it is a warning system so you know the brake pads are worn out and need attention.
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where is this plate at?
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a leak down test could show where the compression is going to.
to preform a leak down test you remove the spark plug. put an adpater into the spark plug thread. and hook up air to the adapter. make sure the valves are all closed on that cylinder. then where ever the air escapes from while airing up the cylinder. is where the problem is at.
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yes like i have read i figured pump damage myself. because of low fluid levels. but it seems that it may not have did that to mine. it probably burnt up my clutch pack.
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i do know how access to a link to the fsm's so that will help. it seems that most fo the tech stuff is about the valve body and the solenoids. drums and clutches are usually about the same in most transmissions. you have to have a spring compressor to get the drum all the way apart to replace the seal in the bottom piston of the drum. then it is a matter of stacking every other friction and steel plate in the drums. the only times i have had trouble rebuilding a transmission is when i didnt get the balls back in the valve body correctly.
my original plan was to pull the pan so i could see if there were any parts laying in the pan and or silver. but i noe doubt any parts will be laying in the pan by the looks of the fsm's. so a fluid and filter change and look for silver is about all that would acomplish. i do now think the reverse drum plates are fried. and or stuck together. since you can put the trans in 2 and move the car then shift to 1 and the car grabs and stops itself. while going slowly. this means a total rebuild. or getting another one.
i was able after i looked with searchtempest to find a used trans cheap. and kind of close. but the guy doesnt know the history of the trans. he bought it used with an engine and never ran the trans. my closest junkyard does have a transmission also. but they do not list it on the web. like they do other parts for this car. so it may be good but it may be bad. its probably good. but they want lots of money fo rthe parts they sell. more than i would pay. i will keep this updated. and or post a rebuild thread for others who know they can rebuild a trans. just as a guide.
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thanks. i think i have it figured out.
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hey i have a flat tire. should i change the water pump?
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so far no one has said anything about the hard parts being damaged. i thought we were talking about friction and steel clutches being damaged. did anyone say anything about half a rebuild? yes i asked if the guy was telling me about how to replace the clutch packs to get rid of torque bid. and i did say i could do that. but whatever i do to my car will be professional. i do not fill the transmission with sand and then pour type f in there. and top it off with distilled water.
if it is hard parts what hard part are we talking about. the rear drum? the drum band? (brake band)
if anyone would actually answer questions instead of just saying oh its finished. i wouldnt have to come in an pry the answers out of everyones lips. wtf?
isnt there a sticky about if you dont know dont answer?
what hard parts? the drum? what?
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the torque bind is gone. replacing the clutchs in the trans packs will fix the problem i am thinking. i dont want torque bind back no.the rear hub/drum (forget the exact part name) can shear off, which would result in your torque bind disappearing as no power can be sent to the rear driveshaft, nothing would turn. it also just slides out of the trans and can be replaced when doing the clutches or solenoid.*but i'm kind of confused - you said the torque bind went away but you're still talking about fixing it? so it's there or not?
yes torque bind can be fixed without removing the trans from the vehicle by removing the rear extension housing to access the clutches and solenoid....or that hub if it's needed. it just slides out, with some persuasion.
your car is AWD by the way - you mention FWD in the first post. FWD vehicles can't have torque bind....or not anything like we're talking about anyway.
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To start with, you have 3 threads on transmission issues going at once, condense that to one.No reverse, slipping in other gears, and you know you ran it low on fluid until it stopped.... that trans is junk. Sorry. You're lucky it moves at all.
Oh, and the feeling like it's in drive when it's in neutral? That's the result of the squeeling noise you heard. The clutch packs have stacks of friction disks and steel plates. You got those steel plates so hot they warped, so now it's like a stack of wave washers and friction disks, and it can't really disengage any more. The reason it got so hot is because the hydraulic pump was sucking air from the empty sump. The oil foam it was pumping around can't apply enough pressure to keep the clutchpacks locked, so they slip. Slipping makes heat, heat destroys parts.
Don't put any money into that trans, it's trash. Go find one with the right final drive ratio out of a junkyard and throw it in, it will fix all your issues at once. And put fluid in it this time!
i had all the question in one thread and was not getting answer one. i finally started getting answers once i spead out the questions. this question was posted days ago. with only comments and no answers.
as far as friction and steel i know what is in the drums. i have had many transmission apart and back together before. i even have the drum spring tool. a partial rebuild of the clutch packs will probably be fine fo rthis transmission the way it is. if not then thats my probelm. i know i wont spend 500 plus dollars on a different used transmission that may not work after i R&R it. with replacing the clutch packs and seals i will know what i have.
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linkage is fine. i watch it as it was shifted from the inside. it moves eveytime.
the back up lights come on when they are suppose to.
last year i talked to a working suba mech at a dealer near me. i was at his house. he said for torque bind that i can buy the clutch packs on ebay cheap. he said to drop soemthing from the transmission and slap the clutch packs in it. and the torque bind would go away. i thought he was talking about another model. but after looking at the diagrams. it seems i might be able to remove the tail unit from the trans and remove the reverse drum. and replace the clutch packs. if that is what is wrong. and or the brake band around it. does this sound correct?
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tires are all the same as by the sticker on the door post. 185 79 or 75 14
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that band is adjustable. it says right on the page how do do it and which way to adjust it. but it doesnt say what adjustment is needed is reverse and low are out and not working.
1995 Legacy 4EAT transfer hub emergency
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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that always happens. i am sorry i cant help. have you looked in the for sale ads on the site?