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It's back together and works. The key cylinder engages with the ignition switch; two separate parts held together with a small phillps screw. Took the ignition switch apart and found that one end of the spring that makes the key cylinder go back from 'START' to 'RUN' was broken off so the starter stayed engaged until I turned it back to 'RUN'.

Those 2 top bolts can be unscrewed, which I did using a small chisel to loosen them. I still had to smack down on it with a hammer to get it to come free. There are 2 pins at 9:00 and 3:00 that are flush with the part that holds the cylinder lock part that have to be drilled out. I used my cordless to drill out the pins. The pins are much harder than the cast housing resulting in the drill bit wobbling off the pin and taking out part of the casing too. Most of the pins were drilled out and I was able to get a hold of the remainder with a needle nose pliers. I probably would have been better of using my drill press but I didn't think of it at the time. So, lesson learned: the cylinder lock was not the problem. I didn't need to take it apart. But hopefully someone with a stuck or broken key can use this. My problem was a had-it ignition switch which you can remove without taking the ignition assembly off the steering column. I was able to put the thing back together and used a couple flat ended screws to replace the pins. I found a replacement unit including 2 keys on Ebay for just a bit more money than the cost of just the ignition switch so that's the way I went. I'll update when it's all back together.

I got it out. The cylinder is held in by two pins on either side of the switch assembly that have to be drilled out. Unfortunately the pins are much harder than the case so the drill bit wobbled off the pins. Anyone have an ignition switch assembly. with keys for my 1986 GL they'd like to sell?

The ignition cylinder key lock, it'sa broke! Started the car and found that it stayed in start rather than springing back to run. The starter wouldn't disengage until I turned the key off. If I start it and turn the key back a bit it worked so I was able to get home. Took off the plastic covers and got the two bolts out and the top bracket off but it appears that the assembly won't come off until the key cylinder is removed and I can't figure out how to get the key cylinder out. I don't see anything else to remove to free the cylinder or assembly. I suspect that the steering wheel lock goes through the lower assembly piece so it won't come off until the cylinder lock is removed. Stuff on YouTube shows a specific key position and a button to push and it should slide out. Not on an '86' GL.If I do get it out but can't fix it, Is there a compatible cylinder lock or assembly that will work in this car? If I have to use a universal ignition switch that only has three connections, what wires go where? Can anyone help?

Back again. Since I started this blog I've swapped 3 different pairs of struts, swapped springs from side to side thinking that if it was the springs the car would crab the other way but nothing has changed. It still remains a mystery. My next experiment will be to replace the rear struts with new ones that I.have. Maybe instead of the front crabbing to the right it;s the rear crabbing to the left. I'm running out of things to try.

Put the old struts back in. Not much difference. The KYB shocks self extended when I took the struts apart so they're probably still good. Guess I'll have to find different front Subaru GL springs. I'm not trying to stiffen the front suspension, just stabilize it. Thanks for the suggestions.

Found the old ones. I'll reinstall them and see if that solves the problem. If not, this will be my last Subaru.

Well, if anyone is still following this thread, it's June 1, 2023 and one of my replaced front struts is 'Had it', I think. When driving at freeway speed the car jumps to the right when I hit a divit or rough spot on the road and replacement struts are no longer available. This will be my last Subaru if I can no longer get the parts I need. Sad. Fare thee well USMB.

If it's the struts, they're no longer available. I replaced the struts in 2019 and they were hard to find then. I couldn't find the struts for a 4wd and had to use 2wd struts instead. KYB no longer lists them. There was another outfit that sold them too but they say, "Out of stock" and they probably got theirs from KYB. If I'm lucky the old ones my still be in my scrap metal pile. They were a little spongy but they didn't try to kill me. The car only has about 131,000 mi. on it. It was a rare find even years ago when I bought it.

My 1986 Subaru GL 4wd wagon. When driving on the freeway, when I hit a rough spot or divit in the road my car feels like it takes a bit of a dive on the driver's side and jerks to the right. A bit scary. I don't notice it on surface streets at lower speeds. It tracks fine when I let go of the steering wheel and the road is smooth. I tried doing the string alignment as described in the forums but there was no change. I checked the wheel bearings on the driver side and they were OK. With the car on the ground and jacked up I grabbed the top of each front tire and shook it vigorously. Everything seemed tight. I grabbed each side of the tires trying to feel for any play. Nothing. I've been led to believe that there is no caster or camber adjustment on these old guys, just toe in or out. Is that right? Is it possible that I screwed up with my string alignment? Was shooting for a1/16 toe in. So the only other thing I can think of is maybe ball joints? Anyone got any other ideas? Do I need to get a real wheel alignment?

Thanks guys. Now, what to do about it?

My '86' Subaru GL has been sitting for several months. When I got it running and moved it I found this where it had been parked, sort of in the middle Anyone know what is? It's about 3.5" diam. and 1" wide and broke

You don't have to be rich, you just have to be able to afford the monthly payments: like buying a house, except a house is going to appreciate over time.

The situation was that oncoming traffic was backed up for a mile because of an accident There was a small break in the traffic where a side road intersected and the guy darted through it. I didn't see him until it was too late and I couldn't stop in time even though I swerved to miss him. I have no idea how long the guy had been waiting to get through the line of traffic to go in the direction I was going.. Had I been a few feet farther up the road he probably would have seen me and stopped in time to avoid the collision. Timing is everything. And, Crazyeights, I wish more EA82 Subaru owners felt the way you do so more vintage Subaru's would be for sale or in wrecking yards. If I can fix it I'm going to need a front left GL fender, headlight, turn signal and bumper with driving lights. I have a DL fender that will probably work and a radiator but the turn signals between the DL and GL are different. The car was picked up yesterday so I 'spect I won't hear anything for several days. I emailed the insurance company and asked why they didn't just send out an appeaser. Person said they just don't. Guess they're not local.

Thanks for the responses. I've never been in this situation before. Haven't been in an auto accident in 62 years.What I am aware of is how insurance companies deal with people who lose their homes to fire and need to replace their appliances. They're told that the appliances were used/old and only given minimal compensation. The insurance company's minions are supposed to pick up my car sometime today. If they won't fix it I'll buy it back and work on it myself. AS far as a later model goes, one of the main reasons I've stuck with these vintage models is because I can work on them. The only thing I see in a later model is more electrical (computer, fuel injection) stuff that I can't work on and no better fuel mileage. If I had my druthers, I'd have an '84' with timing chain instead of those stinking belts. And lastly, I used to be able to go down to 'You Pull It'1 and have several old Subaru's to get parts from. No more. Just late '90's' and newer. Then there's the head gasket and cracked head problem with the 2.2 and 2.5 engines. What's a mother to do? Punt!