3crows

I'm back working on this guy. Got the blower working (relay) Thanks S Nut) and fixed the horn problem. 4wd indicator and the heat gauge don't work. Don't know if the problem is in the instrument cluster or the sending/sensor units. . The car runs fine otherwise. The trans. in my '86' is about to die and has started to leak oil again through the trans axle shaft seals that I replaced earlier this year and is getting hard to shift so I need to get my '87' road worthy again. I'm going to check for power to the heat sensor and/or just pull and replace it. I've never had one go bad. Not too concerned about the 4wd indicator now, just the heat indicator. In the fuse block next to the hazard light fuse is a fuse location that says 'Position'. Anyone know what that is? The wire that goes to the heat sensor next to the thermostat is yellow and green. I've got continuity from it to where it goes into the plug by the battery. It comes out the back of that plug and goes through the fire wall with a cluster of wires but there's no yellow and green wire in the fuse block so I can't tell where it goes once it goes under the dash.

Suppose this isn't the best day for communication but I'm talking about the fuse block on the lower driver's side dash. I pulled them all and none were burnt. Nothing in the wiring that I could see was burnt. I suspect there is a short somewhere because of the dim glow from the side marker but not a clue how to find it. The only other fuses I'm aware of are the fusible links in the engine compartment. That still wouldn't solve the issue of why one side marker glows somewhat, as in not getting enough power to light as it should and the other one doesn't light at all and nether of them light when the headlights are on or just the drive lights. I'll check the wiring diagrams I have in 3 different books and see if I can understand them. It would be easy if there was a blue and blue and white wire coming from the blower fuse position in the block to the blower but there isn't. No idea what the 'Position' fuse is supposed to control? Not goin' todo much today 'sept BBQ

Haven't used the car since last Autumn since the heater/blower stopped working.Now it's Summer and I started to try to figure out what caused the blower to stop working.The first thing I noticed after starting the car was that the fuel gauge didn't work and the heat gauge pegged on 'Hot'. I pulled the instrument cluster out and replaced it with a spare and now it works except for the 4WD indicator light. Then I started on the blower and heater. All the fuses are good and it seems I have power to the fuses in and out but no power to blue and blue and white wires to the blower plug and heater plug. The switch shows continuity in all positions it;s supposed to. Is there something else in there that I'm not checking? The next problem I found was when I got out of the car I noticed that the right side marker glowed with the ignition off. I started pulling fuses and found it went out with the 'Position' fuse. I turned on the headlights but the side marker lights didn't come on. I put the fuse back but the side marker lights still didn't come on except for the dim glow from the right side marker. What is this fuse supposed to control? Everything else seems to work. I've run power directly to the blower motor and it works. Then I found that the horn doesn't work but the clock and hazard light does. They're all on the same fuse so I figure I have a ground problem with the horn. The electrical stuff seems to be the nemesis of most of use but I'm hoping someone can figure this out. I've been playing with it for a couple of days now with no good results.

It has an elect. choke and it works. I'll try backing the timing off and see how that works. Thanks.

Found the high speed idle screw and turned it in and then out. All it does is move the butterflies but doesn't change the idle speed. I cupped my hand over the carb throats which on every other carb that I've worked with would suck your hand down and increase the RPMs. Didn't suck my hand at all. No noticeable vacuum. Instead it was about to stall. Once it was warmed up I set the idle speed at 800RPMs and set the butterflies at just full open. I'm waiting for the engine to cool down to see how much the butterflies close. I don't understand the lack of vacuum at idle. I also disconnected the fuel return line since the web page you sent me said that this model Weber doesn't need it. Well, it's been many hours now and the butterflies are mostly closed; maybe 85%.

OK, I'll try that. Thanks.

When I adjust the idle speed to 800 RPMs after warm up it starts at 400 RPM when cold until it gets warm again. If I adjust it to 800 RPMs at start up it idles at 1500 RPMs after it warms up. If the butterflies are closed at start up, isn't that as 'Choked' as you can get? I don't think it's starting rich. What am I missing?

I replaced the Hitachi carb with a Weber on my '86' Soob several months ago and in general it runs fine except now it takes more cranking to start. I put an inline fuel filter just before the carb and noticed that it doesn't fill completely when the car is running and is even less full before I try to start it. Is that normal? The butterflies are closed so I guess the automatic choke is working. I'm wondering if this is a sign that the fuel pump is getting weak. Timing is set at 8 or 10 degrees. When I first start, it idles at about 400 RPMs and won't stay at 7 or 800 until it warms up. I had to put an extra spring on the throttle to make it idle down after acceleration. I can live with the idle situation but the excess cranking on the starter doesn't seem right. Any thoughts?

I don't mean to pirate this thread, though it's old but this whole thing with axles is frying my brain! I have an '87' DL 4WD carbed 5 speed wagon and an '86' GL 4WD carbed 5 speed wagon. Both have Hi-Low trans. I was told that the front cv axles were interchangeable for these rigs from '85 to '89'. They both have 23 splines and I assumed that's what I would receive when I ordered 2 axles online but when they arrived I found them to have 25 splines and the axle shafts were bigger diam. with no raised casting marks on them as are on the 23 spline axles. According to the seller and his comparability chart it was supposed to fit. Some of the other seller's compatibility charts showed 23 spline axles but most didn't. So how is one supposed to know? I finally did find the 23 spline axles that fit but now I have 2 axles that I can't use and cost too much to return. What models and years used a 25 spline axle? I may be in the market for one of those.

I am counting the internal splines of the axle hub and there are 25 splines on these. I have a spare bush button 4WD trans. that I took out of my '87' and I just received another set of axles that are the right ones with 23 splines. I tried then on that trans and they fit and are snug. These other axles are about 1/8" or more bigger inside diam. than the 23 spline axle. They don't engage the splines on the trans. short shaft. The axle shaft itself is quite a bit bigger in diam. than either of the axles for the '86' or the '87'. The parts guy at wongleflute Hanna thought they might be for the turbo because of having more splines and being stouter and having more torque but they only go by part # and there wasn't one on these axles. Bot according to Dee2's chart and my correcting the spline count, I'm about convinced that they are for the turbo. I was just hoping that some of you guys that are addicted to Subaru's and have worked on many different ones might have picked up on the difference from past experience. Maybe we're all learning something new. And for GP info, the parts guy said these axles from Subaru are about $450 each. I got mine, the correct fitting ones, 2 for $92 on ebay. They were advertised as "NEW" but I've seen other sellers advertising these as 'NEW RE MANUFACTURED" I'm 74 and don't do a lot of driving so I figure they'll most likely last longer than I will. I'm at the age where I don't like to buy green bananas and I always eat dessert first.

Well, on a recount it does have 25 splines and from the diagram that Dee2 directed me to it looks like a 95AC-25 but with no raised bands and no grooves in the inner hub I tried to put in pics comparing this one with my old one from my '86' and one from my '87' but they came out huge and wouldn't post

As far as the manifold goes, I screwed machine screws with loktite into all the unused vacuum ports and plates over the EGR ports. What I did find out here lately, now that the weather is colder and you need to defrost the windshield, it wont work unless you maintain a vacuum line to that dammit thing on the passenger side firewall. Other than that, the only vacuum line you need is for the distributor advance. Damned if it don't look plum sanitary in there now! Not happy with the funky air filter but I just saw a neat setup on here making an adapter to fit the stock Soob air filter to the Weber. My next project.

I replaced the front right axle just in case that was it and it wasn't. What's a loose motor mount sound like? Blown head gasket or exhaust manifold gasket? Transmission mount? Be nice if I had a lift to check all this stuff instead of having to crawl under. Now it sounds like it's coming from the transmission area but still on the passenger side. Can only hear it under acceleration and then, not constant. Other than this weird sound it drives fine. S'pect I'll have to keep driving it 'til something breaks, then I'll know what it is and fix it.

Alcyone, I just stuck to the 6mm screws but I wrapped them with a thin strip of shim material where they go through the bottom plate so they would be snug in the plate with a dab of locktite. Runs great but hard to start. Thing I was worried about, re drilling to 8mm, was that when you try to re drill a hole bigger it can wobble the bit and not drill a true center. skishope, that may be what the problem was but I'm a Weber jock now. If I can just figure out the hard starting problem I'll be clam happy. Both Hitachi carbs looked identical. My Soob doesn't have a computer but it seems to me the new Hitachi had a 4 prong connector that didn't fit the socket in the wire harness so I took the plug off the old carb and put it on the new one. It was either 4 to 3 or 3 to 2. I'll have to check..

Thanks, Dave. What's a FSM and where to find it?

Bought a set of front axles online for my '86' GL 4wd, carbed wagon. When I received them I put my car up on stands and pulled the old axle. When I went to install the new axle I found that the hub that supposed to fit the short shaft from the trans. was bigger and just rattled on it. I took it back out, just a bit pissed and counted the splines. It has 24 instead of 23. The tire end has 30 splines. So my question is, what the hell do these axles go to? According to the compatibility chart on the auction they were supposed to fit my rig. I got credit for them from the seller, which was good but it still took nearly two hours to pull it and then put it back in so I could drive. I'd like to know if these are even for a Subaru and if so, which one?

Thanks, BB

Is the timing on an '86' EA82 with a Weber conversion still going to be 8 degrees BTDC?

Just finished pulling the Hitachi off and putting on a Weber. End of problem!

I saved this page a while back so I could review your pics when I install my Weber. Now that I have a Weber to install, none of the pics will open. Humbug!!

In my 1986 GL 4WD 5 speed carbed; Started a couple weeks ago. It's a flapping sound that's coming from the front passenger side wheel well like something was wrapped around the CV axle making that flapping noise, but it ain't. It starts at about 15mph and seems to disappear between 20 to 25mph. In my mind I picture it making that flapping sound twice per revolution of the front tire. It's not a clicking sound to my ear since I have replaced clicking CV axles in the past. It makes the noise turning either way or going straight. The sound may continue at higher speeds and I'm just not hearing it over the sound of the engine. I've lifted the front wheel up and tried wiggling it in all directions but found no significant play anywhere and there was nothing wrapped around the axle and the CV boots are fine. It's the same kind of sound you'd get with something wrapped around your driveshaft. There's no wobbles or vibration at low or high speeds. For you old guys who remember putting a playing card on your bikes when you were kids that flapped against the spokes, sounds sorta like that but not quite so fast. Any ideas?

It worked! Replaced the seals and the oil is staying steady on the stick. The leaky one was on the driver side. Thanks guys.

This is from my '86. Might help

Don't know if this will help you. It's from my 86 GL

I would take issue with this. "and electrical is one of those things that everyone thinks they know how to do". I hate electrical stuff! It has no moving parts that you can see and it WILL bite you! when you least expect it!